Viper 5901 in a 2011 Ford F-150

As long as you have 2 original keys you can just get a blank key to program. Put the blank in a key in box bypass start car with key one shut off start woth key two then remote start it to program the third key which is the blank. I would not advise to cut off metal part of key as the bpass uses that part to hold the key down and prevent movement.

Thank you Kreg and mobileedgeny I'm buying the KITB and 80 bit key off ebay now. I appreciate the help. I'll update the thread when I get the KITB installed.. It will be nice to be able to use the R/S :-)

I just picked up the PKTX off ebay for $43 I also bought an 80 bit key with out all the factory keyless buttons so it isn't so bulky attached to the big Viper 5901 remote. Seems like it's the best option for what I'm trying to accomplish here... Thanks Kreg for mentioning it.

Would anyone know where I can find a replacement valet toggle switch and wiring that plugs into the Viper module? I must have left it in my Dodge when I traded it. Without it I cannot use the R/S. I've searched ebay, Amazon and Directed's website and all I can find is the toggle itself with out the plug that goes into the module. Thank you.

just get an extra valet switch and use the plug from that and splice it to the toggle switch. i believe they are same size.

Yeah, that's kinda what I was asking...where to find one but I found a two wire plug off a PC tower fan in my PC parts bag that fits the alarm module so I made it work Thanks

You guys are probably already getting sick of me but I need help... Let me begin by saying I cannot find a 2011 wiring diagram so I am using a 2010 and the colors are different, the locations for the connections are right so that is mostly what I'm using it for. I am having to probe every wire to find the ones I need..It's extremely time consuming. Now I have the alarm pretty much installed, it arms, disarms, locks & unlocks the truck, shock and motion sensors working, door triggers working and it will remote start (but dies, no bypass yet) My problems are the parking light connection, the hood pin connection and the tach connection. I don't have the bypass yet so it will just start and stall out. I also found out while hooking up the viper that I have a factory alarm... I had no idea I had one. My dash lCD display keeps telling me "To cancel alarm start vehicle within 15 seconds" The viper is making the factory alarm go off when I disarm the viper. I'm not exactly sure why...I have the key sense wire hooked up. (but not sure if it's right) Now I think I fried something in my parking light circuit trying to get them hooked up. The 2010 wiring diagram says: Parking light +     PURPLE / white     Drivers kick, harness to engine or Parking Light -     Yellow/orange    Headlight switch I probed and found both wires, the hot when parking lights on and the negative when parking lights on (Neg is open when the P/L are off) and so I originally went with the - connection and I had no parking lights at all with arm and disarm. I then reversed the polarity of the P/L wire and hooked it to the + wire I found in the drivers kick and then I had all lights, parking and headlamps. I disconnected the alarms P/L wire from the truck and now my lights will not shut off at all. I had to pull the rear parking, front parking, L headlamp and R headlamp fuses to get them to turn off. I screwed something up and not sure what. I apologize in advance for being a pest but can somebody please help me get this thing hooked up. I can't even take it anywhere now because "I" started installing it. Nobody will touch it. If anyone knows what I need to replace to fix my lights not going off will be extremely helpful as well. I can't afford to pay the dealer to tell me it's something stupid like the headlamp switch or something.. As for the tach wire...I am aware I can hook it to any injector (except blue) to pull a signal...problem is I have the twin turbo EcoBoost and it has direct injection so the injectors are buried in the center of the engine, under the intake and I cannot get to any of them. I cant find the harness that comes out of there with the injector wires to tie into so I am not sure where else I can pull a tach signal from. I can offer a donation to anyone knowledgeable in the 2011 to give me some honest help. I need some verification to what I have already hooked to be sure it's correct and to finish what is not done yet. Thank you, Jess

You can not use the negative wire, as far as i know, you likely have fried the head light switch (circuit board) The PURPLE / White + drivers kick to engine compartment is the correct parking light wire. Not familiar with the tach wire on these hopefully someone else chimes in!To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*

you burned up the headlight switch. need to replace it. can't hook direct neg to it. use pos lights or go to trailer plug.

you shouldn't need tach. set voltage for 4 sec crank. it should have over crank protection.