Viper 5901 in a 2011 Ford F-150

Oh, and you must pulse the + ignition wire, Disarm wire, unlock wire, turn on wire (GWR) on the bypass, and possibly the + accessory wire to disarm the factory alarm. Multiple relays and/or diodes will be needed for this.To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*

racerjames76 wrote: You can not use the negative wire, as far as i know, you likely have fried the head light switch (circuit board) The PURPLE / White + drivers kick to engine compartment is the correct parking light wire. Not familiar with the tach wire on these hopefully someone else chimes in!

Thanks, I had it hooked to the Purple white + and nothing worked. The problem I'm finding is that they use the same color wires multiple times in each harness so it makes it very confusing.

mobileedgeny wrote: you burned up the headlight switch. need to replace it. can't hook direct neg to it. use pos lights or go to trailer plug.

Thank you...Trailer plug...Never thought of that..Great idea!

mobileedgeny wrote: you shouldn't need tach. set voltage for 4 sec crank. it should have over crank protection.

It has "tip start" so basically it starts itself...I bump the key and it starts it by itself... So I can eliminate the tach wire? That sounds good to me!

racerjames76 wrote: Oh, and you must pulse the + ignition wire, Disarm wire, unlock wire, turn on wire (GWR) on the bypass, and possibly the + accessory wire to disarm the factory alarm. Multiple relays and/or diodes will be needed for this.

Please tell me your kidding... :-( goodness, All I wanted was remote start for the cold mornings lol.

Not trying to be a jerk, but this is why it costs $200-$400 for a pro to do it... It really isn't as complicated as it sounds. There are multiple diagrams available (none of which i have access to until Friday), but someone should post it up soon. I agree with forgetting about the tach wire as long as the viper is happy with it lol Future reader tip, that large harness has the PURPLE / white brake wire in it also. Thats why there are multiple wires of the same color. :)To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*

I understand... This system was originally installed in my Ram by me...I didnt have any problems. I took it out when I traded the truck to put it in here.. I couldn't find anyone willing to install a previously installed system so I figured I'd do it again.. I couldn't afford to pay another $500 for the alarm when this one works fine. Trust me, if I could of found someone to put it in, or afforded it I would have done it. Trust me! I don't mind and don't usually have problems doing stuff like this when I have good diagrams to go by...being the truck is a 2011 there isn't much literature out there yet for the public. as for the brake wire, I just pulled it directly from the switch. It was easy to get to.

You can repair the Headlight/Parking Light PCB if your eyes are good and can solder.  Do a search on it.  There should be some other posts on this forum about this problem ( been happening for several model years now ).  Another safe place to get the Parking Lights is at the SJB.

Just as a note on the Alarm issue, newer Compustar systems have this programming option :

Menu-Item       Description

1-11                Ignition / Accessory Out Upon Unlock  Opt 1 = Off  ( Default )Opt 2 = Ignition Pulse-same timing as disarm pulseOpt 3 = Acc Pulse-same timing as disarm pulseOpt 4 = Ign and Acc Pulse-same timing as disarm pulse

Cuts down on relays and diodes..........

Soldering is fun!

http://www.directechs.com/tech_docs/Document26147-2049.pdf Hopefully you can read that, if not I will convert to an image Looks like i was off on whats needed. The 2 sqaures with a stripe on them coming off the unlock wire are 1 amp diodes.To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*

kreg357 wrote: Almost forgot.   A little gotcha...   Use the (+) Parking Light wire at the SJB ( aka BCM ) in the passenger kick panel.

Sorry, I tried to warn you back on Page 1.  It's a pretty common error...   

Here is a link to another post on repairing the parking light switch PCB : https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=110416&KW=jim+hunter&tpn=1

Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote: You can repair the Headlight/Parking Light PCB if your eyes are good and can solder. Do a search on it. There should be some other posts on this forum about this problem ( been happening for several model years now ). Another safe place to get the Parking Lights is at the SJB.

Thanks Kreg, I'll try and find it... I tried to find it at the SBJ/BCM first but had no luck... 500 wires and no clue what color I was hunting for.

racerjames76 wrote: http://www.directechs.com/tech_docs/Document26147-2049.pdf Hopefully you can read that, if not I will convert to an image Looks like i was off on whats needed. The 2 sqaures with a stripe on them coming off the unlock wire are 1 amp diodes.

Thanks, All I get is the log in page for directech..Wont let me view the pdf.

kreg357 wrote: kreg357 wrote: Almost forgot.   A little gotcha...   Use the (+) Parking Light wire at the SJB ( aka BCM ) in the passenger kick panel. Sorry, I tried to warn you back on Page 1. It's a pretty common error... Here is a link to another post on repairing the parking light switch PCB : https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=110416&KW=jim+hunter&tpn=1

I know you did Kreg, I honestly kept your post in mind when I was hunting the connection but I somehow did it wrong anyway. Thanks for the link...I really appreciate it.

Took my headlight switch apart and I cannot find anything burnt on the circuit board. I looked along with my wife and neither of us can see anything that looks like it even got hot. So I don't know what to think now. Isn't the 09 and older a different body style and different switch? My switch has no screws and snaps together. I'm inclined to think I may have damaged the automatic headlight controller.

Nice pictures.  Think the 2009 and 2010 are the same.   Never had to take one apart.

While the (+)Parking Light wire color might have changed on the 2011's to Yellow/Blue, it still at SJB Plug E, Pin 6 in the Passenger Kick Panel.  Plug E should be on the right side, second one  down from top.

Soldering is fun!