Viper 5901 in a 2011 Ford F-150

Thanks Kreg, Thanks to all of you for your assistance and "Happy Thanksgiving" I appreciate that info Kreg... The 2010 diagram shows it listed in the second plug from the bottom... which is why I tried the drivers kick. I couldn't find the P/L at the SBJ second plug from the bottom. I do have a question... a couple posts up it was said that I needed to relay, pulse and diode isolate several wires to disarm the factory alarm to be able to use this viper in the F-150... I thought that was the purpose of the PKTX bypass to signal the truck (ie: disable the Factory alarm) to allow the R/S to operate. I am now facing either buying a $90 headlight switch not knowing if that's the problem and hoping it fixes it or taking it to the dealer and letting them soak me for 4 or 5 hours labor finding and fixing my headlights. Or I can take all of this Viper out and try to hide the fact I put it in and play dumb and see if they fix it under warranty. I imagine that if it's the auto headlamp controller it's gonna be expensive. I tried to find it online to see where it's located in the truck but no such luck... Again, you all are great and I really appreciate your help but I now gotta focus on getting my headlights fixed and then go from there on a alarm/remote start system. I just wish Fords new plug and play system was more elaborate and had shock sensors... it would be so simple. Jess

Disarming the alarm, and bypassing the transponder are 2 different beasts. The PKTX or whatever interface you chose, is simply to supply the BCM with the missing Transponder signal. Disarming the Content Theft Alarm is entirely different requiring giving the truck everything it normally sees if you had pressed unlock and had the warning message and simply turned on the key to disarm that part.To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*

Ok, that explains it better...I was under the impression the PKTX provided the truck all it needed to work with the Viper. I will have to reevaluate this whole situation and see if I want to continue with this viper install unless of course there is a simple way around this. I don't want to risk any more damage to my "new" truck. All this would have been very easy for me if I just could of found the "2011" diagram in the first place. I installed this alarm in my Ram a year ago and from start to finish it took me 4 hours...but I had a good diagram with all the correct wire colors and locations. Makes a big difference when you have what you need lol

Honestly it sounds like you are just overwhelmed, and I dont blame ya one bit. It really isnt as hard as it appears. Ford actually is one of the last manufacturers to retain use of simple 12 volt electronics. Try a new chrysler product and then you can say you can do anything! lol Definitely get the head lights working before you go any further, any aftermarket system needs the factory stuff to work before it can work. Check around with vehicle forums, alot of times there will be dealer parts guys hanging around on there offering deep discounts on things like this. Especially if it is a known common problem. Quick googling brought up a few cheap sources but they all had the incorrect part shown. Alot of times us pro's don't even have a diagram for a new vehicle, and we are forced to go back to basics and bust out the Digital MultiMeter DMM. When in doubt bust it out! :0) If you truely feel you cant complete the install with our help, and the help of the rest of the internet, by all means pull it all out, put it back to stock and save up to have a new one installed by a pro. Nothing wrong with knowing your limits!To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*

I'm not overwhelmed "persay" I just don't want to damage anything else... I paid $44,000 for this truck and I can't afford to break it. When did Chrysler go to the "difficult" wiring... I know my 2006 Ram was simple as hell. The most difficulty I had with it was getting the IOM-Chrysler-7 bypass programmed... It was a bear but did eventually program. I only have these wires left from the alarm to hook up: White + parking light wire WHITE/ violet tach wire (which I'm told isn't needed) Orange - ground when armed output Dark Blue - status output (which I believe goes to the PKTX) Grey - hood pin input (I need to buy a new pin switch, mine broke and the factory switch is open when the hood is open. Alarm looks for ground when hood open.) Green - door trigger wire everything else is hooked up and is working... It arms, disarms, locks, unlocks, goes off when I open a door, shock sensors and motion detector working & remote starts but stalls without the bypass. Bypass should arrive via UPS tomorrow. Right now I get a R/S error on my LCD Viper remote which I assume is due to no bypass installed. It is a very clean install with everything hidden and all the wires in wire wrap.. much cleaner install then my Ram was lol Seems all I'm lacking is disarming the factory alarm at this point. so I don't think I am overwhelmed...just a bit confused and don't want to mess anything else up. Jess

Well they aren't so much difficult as just complicated. Alot of computer controled crap. lol After the problems with Honda's a few years ago I no longer do starter kill relays, so that and the Ground When Armed I would forget about as well. I mean really all you are doing is pointing out which wire is the starter wire right? And, of course opening the door for it to leave you stranded some day. Like I said, just think about what the truck is seeing when you are disarming the content theft system. Unlock and disarm, alarm activates, then transponder, ignition, key sense, and accessory. You can pulse all of those at the same time, or which ever ones are needed anyways. To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*

Thanks Racer... I'll figure it all out when I get my truck back.. I'm not going to continue any further on it until I can find a complete 2011 F-150 wiring diagram. I purchased a month subscription to www.motorcraftservice.com to download the 2011 wiring however the way they have it listed online it's hard to decipher. You cant just pull up a connection and see what is in that plug. I'm hoping to figure it out. I took it in to the dealer this morning and around 11am they sent me home in a rental. They swapped a headlight switch and a SJB from a new truck off the lot and it didn't fix it. So they are telling me it appears to be a shorted wire in the dash harness and I'm looking at 3 days repair time if he can't find it quickly. I'll keep you all posted on what they find...

Ouch on that news, sorry to hear. Those dealer manuals are helpful, but are typically laid out in engineering form, not the typical diagrams we are used to seeing. Easiest way is to find the section of exterior lighting or whatever it is called, and use that to begin to track down what you need. One other source I saw said to use the negative wire at the switch, the black ground wire had to be split open while the ground is applied to the correct wire. I don't think it sounded like a good idea, but may help us to understand how the system works, and may help you make sense of those factory diagrams. To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*

I find with trouble vehicles or easy vehicles i have troubles with, it is simply a matter of who is more stubborn...you or the vehicle! lol Worst case, you go to each parking lamp, split open with a relay the positive side, and feed power directly to each bulb. Yes, I have done that when I got frustrated and exhausted all other options. Not fun, and definitely shouldn't be required here.To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*

Well hopefully I'll figure it all out Racer... I keep researching everything. I didn't hear anything from the dealer today so I guess it will be next week now. On another note, another member on here sent me a PM and suggested wirecolor.com for info so I went and bought a 1 vehicle subscription. They don't let you copy and paste the info but I was able to snapshot all the info so I'm posting it here for anyone else hunting this particular truck. So here you go, you guys have been very helpful to me so I hope this can help somebody else on here: Smart Junction Box: Ignition plug: Lock/Unlock wires: Parking light + at SJB (according to wirecolor.com):