remote start 02 sonata

Lock and unlock were backwards so I switched those 2 wires around but the lock button still tries to start the car. And there is no delay the second I hit the button it starts to crank. I'm use to having to hold the button down for 2 seconds to try and get it to start. How do I fix these issues? I think I wired into my fog lights instead of my parking lights. Oh well, fine by me. lol How do I fix these issues? After that I'll make it look pretty and button it all up.

If I pull the fuse on the heavy gauge RED / white then the lock/unlock work no problem but the car won't attempt to start. I'm even more confused now.

OK, here goes.  Info from DEI.  All connections should be verified with a DMM.

H1/1 RED / WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT                         Green(-)  ETACM, 12 pin plug, pin 5     

H1/2 RED (+) CONSTANT POWER INPUT                                                    Red @ Ignition Switch Harness

H1/3 BROWN (+) SIREN OUTPUT                                                                  Avital Siren +

H1/4 EMPTY NOT USEDH1/5 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND INPUT                                                 Chassis Ground

H1/6 VIOLET (+) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT, ZONE 3                          H1/7 BLUE (-) MULTIPLEXED INPUT, ZONE 4H1/8 GREEN (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT, ZONE 3                                    Yellow(-)  front of fuse box, 12 Pin plug, pin 9

H1/9 BLACK/ WHITE (-) 200mA DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION OUTPUTH1/10 WHITE/ BLUE (-) REMOTE START ACTIVATION INPUTH1/11 WHITE (+)/(-) SELECTABLE LIGHT FLASH OUTPUT                      lt. blue(-)  headlight switch  ***5303 Jumper/Fuse set to (-)        

H1/12 ORANGE (-) 500mA ARMED OUTPUT

H2/1 LIGHT BLUE (-) SECOND UNLOCK OUTPUT

H2/2 WHITE/ BLACK (-) AUX 2 OUTPUTH2/3 VIOLET/BLACK (-) AUX 1 OUTPUTH2/4 GREEN / WHITE (-) FACTORY ALARM REARMH2/5 GRAY/BLACK (-) WAIT-TO-START INPUTH2/6 LIGHT GREEN/ BLACK (-) FACTORY ALARM DISARM                  to relay & then to (+)Keysense - if necessary

1 LIGHT BLUE (-) UNLOCK OUTPUT (+) LOCK                                      white(-)  rear of fuse box, 16 Pin plug, pin 10 

2 EMPTY NOT USED3 GREEN (-) LOCK (+) UNLOCK OUTPUT                                                lt. blue(-)  rear of fuse box, 16 Pin plug, pin 11

1 PINK/WHITE (-) 200mA PROGRAMMABLE IGN2/ACC2 RELAY TURN ON

2 YELLOW (+) IGNITION INPUT TO ALARM                                             Pink(+)  ignition harness

3 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION RELAY TURN ON4 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY RELAY TURN ON5 PURPLE (-) 200mA STARTER RELAY TURN ON6 ORANGE / BLACK (-) ANTIGRIND/GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT7 BLUE (-) 200 mA STATUS OUTPUT

H/1 PURPLE STARTER OUTPUT TO STARTER (STARTER SIDE)              Yellow(+) CUT  ignition harness

H/2 GREEN STARTER INPUT FROM IGNITION (KEY SIDE)                          Yellow(+) CUT  ignition harness  H/3 RED (+) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT                                                          Red @ Ignition Switch Harness

H/4 ORANGE OUTPUT TO ACCESSORY CIRCUIT                                          Orange(+)  ignition harness H/5 PINK OUTPUT TO PRIMARY IGNITION CIRCUIT                                       Pink(+)  ignition harness H/6 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT                                               Red @ Ignition Switch Harness

H/7 PINK/WHITE OUTPUT TO SECOND IGNITION CIRCUIT                        Brown(+)  ignition harness   ***Menu3, Item8, 2Chirp  -  ACC2

H/8 RED / WHITE (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT                                 Red @ Ignition Switch Harness

H3/1 BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT                                     Chassis Ground

H3/2 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT WIRE                                                     White(ac)  instrument cluster or ECM   ***Menu3, Item1, Opt4

H3/3 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT WIRE                                                 lt. blue(+)  brake pedal switch 

H3/4 GRAY (-) HOOD PINSWITCH INPUT, ZONE 1                                                    lt. blue(-)  ETACM, 12 pin plug, pin 2

H3/5 BLUE/WHITE (-)200mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOG - Latched Pulsed 

See Avital Install Guide Page 32 for Tach Learn procedure.

Soldering is fun!

That is how I have it. Except for the trunk and keysense. Is the tach learning for having it wired or virtual tach? And why if I unplug a consistent 12v power feed the locks work but the remote start won't.

KREG357 wrote: H/1 PURPLE STARTER OUTPUT TO STARTER (STARTER SIDE)              Yellow(+) CUT ignition harness H/2 GREEN STARTER INPUT FROM IGNITION (KEY SIDE)           Yellow(+) CUT ignition harness H/3 RED (+) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT             Red @ Ignition Switch Harness H/4 ORANGE OUTPUT TO ACCESSORY CIRCUIT            Orange(+) ignition harness H/5 PINK OUTPUT TO PRIMARY IGNITION CIRCUIT        Pink(+) ignition harness H/6 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT Red @ Ignition Switch Harness H/7 PINK/WHITE OUTPUT TO SECOND IGNITION CIRCUIT        Brown(+) ignition harness   ***Menu3, Item8, 2Chirp - ACC2 H/8 RED / WHITE (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT   Red @ Ignition Switch Harness

I had the pink and orange backwards from what you had and after switching them around. Same issues. Keeps cranking and lock button starts the car. Now what? I even moved all the 12+ wires to one red wire instead of across 2. No change either.

The Avital does a Virtual Tach learn automatically the first time it is remote started if Menu 3, Item 1, Opt 1 is set ( Virtual Tach ).  See page 31.

If you change the programming to Tach Mode (Menu 3, Item 1, Opt 4) you must connect to a tach source and do the Tach Learn procedure on Page 32.

Not sure why the issue with the H7 RED / White wire.  It supplies power to the H6 Pink/White wire that you are using for the Brown ACC2 wire ( programmed in Menu 3, Item 6, Opt 2 Sorry just noticed the Typo in my wiring response above).  If memory serves me, the Brown ACC2 wire is thinner and the circuit powers the radio and other non-important items.  You could disconnect those two wires & see what happens.

Think I would pull out the DMM and re-verify all vehicle wires and check all solder connections.

Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote: The Avital does a Virtual Tach learn automatically the first time it is remote started if Menu 3, Item 1, Opt 1 is set ( Virtual Tach ).  See page 31. If you change the programming to Tach Mode (Menu 3, Item 1, Opt 4) you must connect to a tach source and do the Tach Learn procedure on Page 32. Not sure why the issue with the H7 RED / White wire.  It supplies power to the H6 Pink/White wire that you are using for the Brown ACC2 wire ( programmed in Menu 3, Item 6, Opt 2 Sorry just noticed the Typo in my wiring response above).  If memory serves me, the Brown ACC2 wire is thinner and the circuit powers the radio and other non-important items.  You could disconnect those two wires & see what happens. Think I would pull out the DMM and re-verify all vehicle wires and check all solder connections.

I have a dmm and checked all the voltage and ground. Not sure how to check the ignition wires though. I took the BLACK/ white for the domelight output and grounded it out and the lock button will lock the car and attempts to start it also. Before it wouldn't lock it. It's reset to factory defaults and no tach wire is hooked up. Just no idea on why it keeps cranking with the lock button. I'm ready to pull my hair out. What's my next step in troubleshooting.

With the orange and pink wires disconnected, nothing changes.

The guy that usually does my installs says the starter wire is backwards. I cut the yellow and purple goes into the loom and green goes into the 6pin harness that plugs into the key. Seems right to me. If it was backwards I would assume it wouldn't crank at all. Right?

If the starter connections were backwards and the Avital was locked/alarmed the remote start's Starter signal wouldn't get to the vehicle and start the car.  For what it's worth, you can go without Starter Kill / Anti-Grind by reconnecting the cut Yellow wire and just attaching the Purple wire to it.

Do you have any extra wires connected from the 5303 to the car that aren't on the list?

Almost sounds like the Lock or Arm wire is connected to this wire :H1/10 WHITE/ BLUE (-) REMOTE START ACTIVATION INPUTAll of the unused wires should be insulated and safely secured out of the way.

Soldering is fun!