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2010 Nissan Altima PTS Remote Start Pictorial


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metz35 
Copper - Posts: 458
Copper spacespace
Joined: January†13, 2003
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: December†30, 2011 at 2:00 PM / IP Logged  
tedmond wrote:
i took on a 2010 Nissan Juke today PTS and Smart key. took me 5h to do a full alarm/start. Unit installed was a viper 5902 and xpresskits DBALL all which came from the customer.
the DBALL isnt that great of a piece, instead i used an EVO series bypass and it worked out well.
5 hours , did you vacuum and clean the windows too? j/k
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January†09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: December†30, 2011 at 4:16 PM / IP Logged  
Be fair, it will probably take Ted 2 hours on the next one.
I did 24 trackers on a fleet of light vans some years ago, the first took 40 minutes, by the time I got to number 10, I had it down to 7 minutes each.
tedmond 
Gold - Posts: 4,610
Gold spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January†06, 2007
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: December†30, 2011 at 11:02 PM / IP Logged  
the actual install was only 2.5 hours, the rest was trouble shooting the damn DBALL. got fed up and switch for a fortin evo-all and my headache was gone.
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert
tbird2340 
Copper - Posts: 363
Copper spacespace
Joined: October†03, 2003
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: May†26, 2012 at 10:19 PM / IP Logged  
I need to get an ignition wire that sends 12V.. I seen the one you mentioned was a negative ignition.. Do you know an ign wire that sends 12V?
Also, if that wire is at the BCM that is behind the instrument cluster.. Would you be able to tell me how to get access to it?
Thanks so much.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January†09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: May†27, 2012 at 1:44 AM / IP Logged  
Without having worked on one I can tell you that question is fitting 101.
Drop the steering column, you may have to remove the upper cowl, probably 4 screws underneath (out of 6, the other two hold the lower column cowling.
Cowl will have either two upper or four, 2 up and 2 down. Remove and "jerk" the cowl out.
Actual gauge panel will have either three or four holding screws.
You should pick up a (+) ignition either at the aforementioned box or rear of the gauge panel, or engine bay fuse box.
Generically all oriental instrument panels are much the same, be it Toyota, Honda etc.
tbird2340 
Copper - Posts: 363
Copper spacespace
Joined: October†03, 2003
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: November†15, 2012 at 7:40 PM / IP Logged  
So I'd love to put a RS into my 08 Altima.. I was going to use the ADS-BLADE AL bypass but see others suggest using the Fortin EVO-ALL.. Is that the preferred path for ease of install? The Fortin?
I've done about 30 or so installs but this one makes me crazy nervous..
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,572
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January†30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: November†16, 2012 at 4:20 AM / IP Logged  

Some things have changed since this was originally posted.

Compare the two install guides, ADS Blade AL(DL) NI5 ( http://www.idatalink.com/ support/get-install-guide/ guide_id/9630 ) to the EVO-ALL( https://ifar.ca/download/4211/preview.html ). There are some differences but the iDatalink Blade firmware has been updated with a simpler install wiring procedure. No relays under the hood or ignition wires going to the BCM any more.

Soldering is fun!
magnamagus 
Member - Posts: 19
Member spacespace
Joined: January†23, 2014
Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: February†06, 2014 at 2:21 AM / IP Logged  
Question:
1. How did you get the tamper proof screws holding the BCM module out?
Erick
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,572
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Joined: January†30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: February†06, 2014 at 3:05 AM / IP Logged  
They do make a special dealer tool for that ( for serious money 2010 Nissan Altima PTS Remote Start Pictorial - Page 4 -- posted image.   ).
Soldering is fun!
magnamagus 
Member - Posts: 19
Member spacespace
Joined: January†23, 2014
Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: February†06, 2014 at 3:46 AM / IP Logged  
I was asking about the Altima BCM tool because I am doing an install with another very similar tedious vehicle, its older brother the Maxima 2010 - exact same install except for a few differences. I had a couple questions on the 2010 altima/Maxima/G37.... I'm sure this is relevant to this install as well. I am installing the following below:
Alarm: VIPER 5706 -- DATA TO DATA -- REMOTE START + Security
DBALL2 BYPASS INSTALL GUIDE:¬ http://www.xpresskit.com/ VehicleCompatibility.aspx? p=null&year=2010&make= Infiniti&model=G37 %28Smart Key%29&ps=1 &s=0&c=0
I am confused with the WIRE TO WIRE connections FROM THE STANDARD VIPER MAIN HARNESS & REMOTE START HARNESS to the vehicle using a Dball2 bypass -- very much like a fortin install by the way.
1. In regards to the "Stater Interrupt", is it necessary? Are the (H5)Starter INPUT and (H4) Starter OUTPUT, really necessary OR is this handle by DBALL2 through through it's Starter 1 and Ignition 1 connections???
---H3/4 Violet (+) STARTER OUTPUT (car side)
---H3/5 Green (+) STARTER INPUT (key side)
2. The 2010 Nissan Maxima has TWO starters and Ignitions: (-) Starters 1 and (-)Starter 2, and, (+)Ignitions 1 and (-) Ignition 2. Now, the Dball2 Install Guide, says to connect ONLY the remote start Ignition Input(+) [to Dball2 ignition status input & output wires] and remote start - Starter 1 (+) output [to Brake Wire (+)]?††††Is this correct? And, does the Dball2 handle the Ignition & Starting sequence entirely through these two wires?
3. Do I need to connect the 10 gauge "H3/6 Red fused ignition 1 input" to a 12v constant source, in order to use the "H3/1 Pink ignition input/output wire" which is supposed to be connected to the 24 gauge Dball2 "ignition status input/output wires"??
4. I will connect the remote start's heavy 10 gauge "H3/1`Pink Ignition Input/Output" wire TO the DBALL2 24 gauge "Ignition Status Input" and "Ignition status output" wire per the Dball2 install manual in the following manner.
I will military splice two wires from the DBALL2, these are 24 gauge Ignition output(PURPLE / brown) to the Ignition Input (PURPLE / green) as indicated in the install diagram. Then, I will military splice the 24 gauge ignition input (PURPLE / green) to the 10 gauge "H3/1 Pink Ignition input/out" wire from the 5706 remote start.†††Are these connections correct? This seems odd connecting a 24 gauge wire (dball2) to a 10 gauge wire (remote start)?
5. After the above connections are made to the heavy 10 gauge "H3/1`Pink Ignition Input/Output", does this PINK H3/1 wire need to be connected anywhere else or is that the final connection i.e. Remote start to Dball2?
Again, thank you for your assistance... Greatly appreciated...
Erick
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