door lock wire color on 2009 mazda5

Got the locks working today. I had to reverse the wires though, the diode went on the green, not the blue. I can't understand because its the reverse of what I thought was right. It works now so I wont stress out about it. Now for the kicker, my door pin works backwards. I hooked the green on the R/S to the blue/black at the driver kick and it only arms with the door open. The wire should be a (-) N.C. But its not, I get voltage with the door closed. tomorrow I'm going to pull the switch on the rear door to check the color. Is it possible the color code is wrong?

Ford and Mazda both suffer this problem, there might be a note (NC door triggers) in your programming, otherwise look it up in the Manuals/Downloads section. I posted it (the fix) a couple of weeks ago.

Ford tectip 1921 and someone else entered it before me! Mazda 2 = Ford Fiesta Mazda 3 = Ford Focus Mazda 6 = Ford Mondeo (Europe), Edge (US).

As far as I know, my car doesn't work the same as that. I think the 2008-2010 use a simplified system. I got my info from Bulldog security, the 2006-7 list the individual wire colors for each door and the 2008-10 list only one color and no notes about diodes.

Very simple, meter that trigger if when door is shut it should either read 12v+ or open circuit. When door is opened 0v. That's the normal method NC closed,ground on open. If you have the reverse, i.e. ground on closed then that tech tip is for you.

I just checked it out on Directwire, that tech tip is the only way to go.

I tested it and I got 12v with the door open and .2v with the door closed. I guess I qualify for the tech tip. Thats unfortunate though because they dont list the other colors for the other doors. The 2007 5 has the same color for the driver door so I will see if the color code matches for the rest. It seems whenever I try to do this kind of stuff, I run into a problem no one knows about or I got bad info somewhere. If I knew I was going to have this much trouble, I could have gotten a DB-ALL instead. DEI said I needed a programmer to use it though so I didn't go for it. I even asked them what they recommended on live chat and I got zero help. I'm off to go finish this thing up, wish me luck!

any bypass would have done the same. only some mazda models use data.Ted

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert

I punked out and went to an installer for the trigger pins. Im very ashamed but a third day of laying outside in the cold, in the street, was not appealing anymore. I paid $60 and he ran the siren for me, door pin, hatch pin, and hood pin. I was surprised to find he hooked the door trigger to the domelight wire. If I knew I could have done that, I would have done it myself. Its all back together and works great. My only question now is that it locks passively but I dont get confirmation on the 2 way remote, is that normal? It shows it still unlocked even though it obviously is until I hit the lock button myself.

i was going to suggest domelight, but its a poor way of doing triggers on the newer vehicles. it works, and its NOT wrong. just you dont get instant triggers. there is a slight delay, and it can cause false alarms on some cars. Ted

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert