door lock wire color on 2009 mazda5

You've lost me there...why double pulse? And I'm always prepared to help those who listen, do and learn. I'm not here to hold anyone's hand and do it for them, especially not from 3000+ miles away!

Hmm seems we got a little out of sync, lets start from the beginning. The WHITE/ Blue wire for "remote start activation input". This was the first page I scanned and wire H 1/10 in the installation manual. I have come to believe this is to trigger the remote starter manually from a switch under the dash. I just need to connect this one through a momentary switch to ground and when I press it once, it will begin the remote start sequence. Is this correct? Priority locking: I dont want to have priority locking if possible. I want them all to open at once. According to Item 2-7 of the programming options page, I can select if the blue unlock wire does 1 or 2 pulses. Unless I'm not reading it right, I take this to mean it will be as if I hit the unlock button twice and it will unlock all the doors with only one press of the remote control. I know the alarm has a second unlock output but I'm really at a loss to understand why. Priority unlocking needs 2 presses to open all doors, if I just hit my remote button twice, wont this be the same thing? Why is there a second output at all? I clearly must be missing something here.

Sorry about the delay, been watching telly, switching between a British drama series, a top soccer game and believe it or not the Big Bang Theory, lordy don't you love HD satellite +HD Tivo? Right you are absolutely correct about the WHITE/ blue wire, ignore it. Ignore priority unlock, it's for paranoid housewives or van security, on Ford (UK) Transits and MB/Dodge Sprinters, it first unlocks the front only leaving the cargo area secure. Don't bother to program for it, it won't make any difference programming double pulse unless you set it up as per my diagram. The second lock output will only work if you set it up as per that diagram.

No worries about the wait. I had to winterize my motorcycle and it was sunny and 60 degrees here in NYC! I also threw in the new Ohlins shock while I was at it. Therefore, I think this will have to wait until January anyway. Yes I do love all the tech for watching TV these days. My dvr is full of Motogp, F1 and 50 episodes of top gear. The American version is garbage and i'm not even sure its still on. I was in London in 2005 and one highlight was getting to watch it uncensored and in person so to speak. I'd love to go back, one day soon I hope. I think I have all my connections in order now, if anything pops up I'll let you know but I think it should be smooth from here. The only hitch I might have will be trying to hook up the rear defroster option. This BCM business is a pain! If it doesn't go easy I may just skip it. Thanks for being patient with me and I really appreciate the prompt replies too. Enjoy your holidays. Joel

Same weather here, this time last year I was under a foot of snow! From my point of view a happy Chanuka to you too.

Happy Hanukkah to you as well, I guess Joel was a tip-off? Happy New Year as well!

Yup, my last name is Messias, far as I know I'm the only Ashkenazi with that name. It comes from Russia, all the others in England were of Dutch Sephardi origin. I've been pestered in a nice way by the Sephardis since my Barmitzvah, why are you having it in an Ashkenazi Synagogue, etc. Heck I lived in Florida in the early 80s, did Spanish back in school in England and they all thought I was from Columbia or Venezuela!

Greetings! I finally started the starter install, its not complete but it does remote start! I have a question, when I test for the door lock wire, how should I test it? Continuity to ground and hit the lock button? Wasn't sure about that part. Thanks for all your help so far, I had doubts lol

If you're not sure if you have the correct wire, it's better to ground through a bulb test light such as the Snap-On unit. Assuming you've installed the 451 and everything is powered up including the R/S and the 451 to ground. Make a temporary connection to the suspect wire. Close all but the driver door, throw over the striker catch at the back of the door so the car thinks the door is closed. Taking your grounding lead or test light, one end to ground first touch it to the lock wire at the R/S. That should lock the car, the touch it to the unlock wire at the R/S. This should unlock it. Solder up your connection.

I'm sure I have the right wire, I just wanted to be a pro and test first :) I put a multimeter to it and checked for continuity to ground when I hit the lock button, it didn't read anything. I didn't want to ground the wire in case it was something with the com bus and it would have shorted out. I did all the wiring on the drivers side and now when I go to the passenger side to finish up, I wanted to know how to test it properly. Should be cake from here though. I was surprised it started after I programmed the PKALL, they didn't mention that in the instructions!