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what bypass module if any for a 06 f350


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tedmond 
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Joined: January 06, 2007
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: February 26, 2012 at 9:30 PM / IP Logged  
you said you own an OP500 programmer, so for your custom light application, use a domelight trigger which will only be active for 45s upon disarm.
1) change any POC 1-9 to optional setting 9 (domelight)
2) go to option group 3-02 option 3 (45 second)
3) connect poc to whatever application you want to use it for.
only have one cable connected to the 4pin or 6pin for programming. Using both ports will burn the brain circuity. use one or the other ONLY.
btw you should use a version 1.4 or newer install guide, that ensures you will have the complete programming table. I suggest V3-V6.0+
CN3-3 Not Needed
CN3-8 used as in input not output. This is to detect if you left the rear gate open.
Cn3-9 you can change its function to what ever purpose you wish.
CN3-10 Connect to door triggers to detect open state of doors. direct connection to car
CN3-13 not needed will arm alarm with lock
CN3-15 connect to car disarm, some models dont have a factory alarm
CN3-17 dont need as you have a siren
CN5-2 this is the wire you want to use to make your trunk pop, or in your custom setup to unroll the cover.
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert
ace_boy2099 
Copper - Posts: 80
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 13, 2010
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: February 26, 2012 at 10:53 PM / IP Logged  

Do you happen to have some kind of scan of the newer version guides? This is the one that came with my control box. I scanned it so I could ask all my questions in the easiest way I could think of. The option table chart provided is the 1.4 version, is there a newer on of these too? I'd imagine that this wouldn't change (aside from some wording maybe)

for the antenna, It wouldn't hurt to have both wires in the control box, Just that before programming with the 4-pin, Disconnect the antenna from the 6-pin wire, right? Essentially a cable is just an extension cord of sorts, nothing on it unless it's plugged in, right?! or would it confuse the box to have signals from both ports? (at different times)

Did you mean 3-2 is not needed and I can use 3-3 (POC1) for the domelight trigger?

3-10 - the (+/-) threw me off, Then I saw in the middle the "door trigger polarity". Direct to vehicle, Got it.
3-12 - Do I need a delay timer for the glow plugs like stated in the 06 F250 wiring chart on here? how would I go about making one?(if needed)
3-14 - Is this suppose to be for the temperature start thingy feature? what would I connect this to?
3-15 - Don't have factory anything, this alarm will be the sole keyless/alarm on truck.
Inshort, anything with POC does not need to be connected to anything for the unit to work right.
5-2 - ok, so this could latch for x-seconds to roll the cover open?!, how would I go about making it run in reverse to unroll and close the tonneau? (maybe as an AUX line my only option)
5-3/4 - for this I would wire the drivers and remaining doors seperate (per wiring "instructions" on site here) and turn off priority by OP500 and they all open at once right? Then, later, if I change my mind I can turn it on with the programmer.
CN1-6 has me torn, I want to have the parking lights come on when it is remote started and all like it is suppose to be, however, when I send a command like for it to lock or unlock, I'd almost rather see the directionals flash instead of the parking lights, if it cant be done then I will leave it the parking lights.

Thank You for your help on this, I want to make sure I have everything right.

tedmond 
Gold - Posts: 4,610
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Joined: January 06, 2007
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: February 28, 2012 at 12:04 AM / IP Logged  
the options have been changed if you have the newest flash on the brain.
you can leave both the 6 and 4pin connected, but just make sure the antenna is disconnected at one end.
CN3-2 and CN3-3 do not need to be used. You can use CN3-3 as the domelight trigger. You can connect CN3-12, but its easier to set option 2-03 set it for option 2. this will be a default 12second delay OR you can program with the op500.
CN3-14 is not used for temperature start. not needed
CN3-15 not needed either
use aux for your cover. when you have the parking lights connected the flash with your unlock/lock/trunk. With all the questions you have, i honestly think you're in way over your head. You're pretty much being spoon fed the info, Im only being so generous with the insight. get the basics installed, then deal with all the POC/custom stuff.
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert
ace_boy2099 
Copper - Posts: 80
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 13, 2010
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: March 02, 2012 at 5:02 PM / IP Logged  

Quick Question, Would I be able to hook up the Key Sence wire and set the Diesel Timer, or would there be a confliction??

tedmond 
Gold - Posts: 4,610
Gold spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 06, 2007
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: March 02, 2012 at 9:51 PM / IP Logged  
Look at option 2-03, that will answer your question.
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert
ace_boy2099 
Copper - Posts: 80
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 13, 2010
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: March 02, 2012 at 10:44 PM / IP Logged  

tedmond wrote:
Look at option 2-03, that will answer your question.

OK, Lets see, Option 2-03:

Feature: "Diesel Timer" = "Would you like to use option 1 *Default* of using the wire?" or "Would you like to use option 2 of setting a timer?"

Hmm.., I'd like to set a timer, now maybe I can use the dual purpose wire for its other purpose.

Firstech, LLC CM6000 Installation Manual Pg.15 wrote:
Connector 3
Pin 12 BROWN / White - This is a dual-purpose wire that is selectable through option 4-09 in the programming able.
Select the polarity through the Glow/Key jumper on the control module. It can be set to accept either a positive (+) or a negative(-) wait to start input/key sense.

Default - Glowplug positive (+) or negative (-) input. The proper vehicle wire will show a (+) or (-) trigger while the wait to start light is on. This wire will delay the starter output momentarily to allow the glow plugs to warm up on vehicles equiped with a diesel engine. You can adjust the delay with option 2-3.

Optional - Key sense positive(+) or negative (-) input. The proper wire will show a (+) or (-) trigger only when the key is is the ignition. The purpose of the key sense is to prevent the system from passively arming or setting reservation mode while the key is still in the ignition.

When I look at option 4-9 it asks if I want Glow Plug (Default) or Key Sense input, If I put it to Key sense it isn't going to disable the Glow Plug timer, is it? That is, err, was my question.

Sorry for being in a rush to leave for work earlier and not explaining all this before.

ace_boy2099 
Copper - Posts: 80
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 13, 2010
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: March 09, 2012 at 4:16 PM / IP Logged  
I have a question for anyone still viewing this, Why would the LED in the A-pillar stay on (dim) when armed or disarmed, and while armed flash from dim to bright and back, Never going to the off state? The LED on the Valet button thingy acts fine (off and flash bright) but the led on the a-pillar is always on dim and flashes bright.
ace_boy2099 
Copper - Posts: 80
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 13, 2010
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: March 22, 2012 at 2:12 PM / IP Logged  

note for my previous since i can't edit....

Called Compustar and they said the brain box/control unit can't support the LED and the RPS-Touch so Unplug one.

Anyone able to figure out which way the diodes are suppose to be in this linked pdf (My vehicle is the 06 Without Keyless (Page 16 of pdf)

http://www.amp-research.com/?dl_id=102

From what I can figure the stripe on the diode is suppose to be on the end with the 2 wires in 1 connector going towards (in the pdf a Power retractable step) in my case the Door Triggers, However, When i made this with wire and diodes I had it would either A- (with diodes in wrong direction) not allow power to alarm trigger wire (no surprise) or B1- (alarm on positive door trigger mode) see doors as open when closed and closed when open, or B2- (alarm on negaitve door trigger mode) not see the doors open or closed at all.

Does anyone have an idea of what I can try? Also sometimes when I apply the E-Brake and let the turbo timer run, everything but the engine shuts down (radio, A/C, etc...) but only sometimes, Any clues to why? what should I look for?

Thanks in advance.

ace_boy2099 
Copper - Posts: 80
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 13, 2010
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: May 06, 2012 at 1:50 AM / IP Logged  

ok, I was able to get the diodes straight from amp research for the power step they make and I rigged it to work for the alarm, However, It hasn't fixed the problem of the door triggers not being picked up. Does anyone have any suggestions for me?

I have also since unplugged the LED so I can have the RPS-Touch installed but the LEDs on the rps-touch device don't blink like in the video compustar has on youtube (like the RPS-II on my other vehicle does). It does seem to respond to my finger on the glass but it doesn't flash while armed. would not having the doorpin operational effect that? I can't set a code untill i figure out the door pin issue.

As for the turbo timer question, I believe my key sense thingy on the truck may be the issue because sometimes the chime won't work and if I wiggle the key slightly it will then read/sense and start chiming.

Other than above the unit seems to be working flawlessly so far. Thanks for all help provided so far and any in the future.

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