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python 580 starter in 2008 sonata


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offroadzj 
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Posted: January 15, 2012 at 6:37 PM / IP Logged  
Thats how I always test (-) signals. Maybe its just me...
Kenny
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KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205
baytonemus 
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Posted: January 15, 2012 at 9:17 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks, Kenny. Finally had the "Aha!" moment. I was making it way too complicated. Ground the wire and see if the component operates as it should. Duh...again.
Question now about lights. The Python has circuits for "dome light output" and "light flash isolation wire - pin 87a of onboard relay." On the car's list I've got "dome sensor" and "auto lights shutdown."
Not sure how to proceed. Thanks.
offroadzj 
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Posted: January 15, 2012 at 9:30 PM / IP Logged  
I don't recommend going straight to the ground signal to test. There is always a possibility of grounding the wrong wire and causing a short that could cause a lot of damage. Always test with a DMM first and use the grounding method as a double check of sorts.
Most newer cars automatically activate the domelight when you unlock the door so it is rarely actually required. Also, you do not need the parking light isolation wire either. The auto lights shutdown will use the factory rearm wire (through a diode if it is also being used for the factory alarm). This will send a (-) 200ma signal to the auto light shutdown after the vehicle is shut down by remote (or times out) to shut off the automatic lights and keep them from staying on.
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205
baytonemus 
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Posted: January 15, 2012 at 10:15 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks for all of that.
baytonemus 
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Posted: January 16, 2012 at 10:18 AM / IP Logged  
TACH
Shortcircuit, you said that you always take tach signal from an injector. Is that better in some way than using the wire available in the kick panel?
HOOD PIN
I have a hood pin wire available to me at the kick panel. Is there any reason I need to install the pin that was provided with the kit?
Thanks again!
offroadzj 
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Posted: January 16, 2012 at 10:46 AM / IP Logged  
Tach: as long as the unit will program with the tach signal in the kickpanel then you should be fine with it.
Hood Pin: If the vehicle has a factory hood pin you are MUCH better off using it. The cheap hood pins that come with the kits can corrode very easily over time and give false alarms and other problems. Always use the factory hood pin when possible.
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205
baytonemus 
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Posted: January 16, 2012 at 11:09 AM / IP Logged  
Excellent! Thanks.
baytonemus 
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Posted: January 16, 2012 at 11:46 AM / IP Logged  
offroadzj wrote:
Factory Alarm Disarm      orange (double pulse)      -      driver kick, gray 24 pin 3
Meter this wire while turning the key in the driver door key cylinder.
The wirecolor.com notes for this say "Orange (and Brown. Diode isolate.)" Not sure how to proceed. Also, there are two brown wires in this connector, at pin 1 and the pin opposite (in the 2nd row).
offroadzj 
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Posted: January 16, 2012 at 1:11 PM / IP Logged  
to be honest I haven't done one of those in a while so I really can't say for sure if that is correct or not. All I know is that DEI wiring has rarely ever let me down. But an easy check will be to connect your DMM to each brown wire and see if either one shows ground when turning the key in the door key cylinder. If it does then you may have to connect both wires and diode isolate them.
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205
offroadzj 
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Posted: January 16, 2012 at 1:13 PM / IP Logged  
The bulldogsecurity site agrees with the orange and brown so it is very possible that both are required. It says that they are pins 3 and 1... but still be sure to test the wires before connecting anything. If you need to diode isolate them then pick up 2 diodes (1n4004) and use them to split the unlock wire to both wires with the band in the diode facing towards the r/s unit.
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205
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