python 580 starter in 2008 sonata

Having trouble finding the hood pin wire at the driver's kick. Wirecolor.com says it should be a green wire in the gray connector. I'm getting no voltage on that wire when pressing the hood pin. The wire running to the actual hood pin is green but much lighter than the green wire at the kick. Maybe that's not significant... Can anyone compare that info with another source? Thanks.

The hood pin wire may not necessarily show 12v when the hood is closed. But it should show ground when it is opened. Connect the red lead of your DMM to a known 12v source and the black lead to the wire you are testing. Then open the hood and see if you show voltage. If not then you do not have the right wire... keep looking around in the DKP... it may be hidden somewhere in the harness. I just checked ready remote's wire diagram and it says that the hood pin is green in the pass. kick panel, not the driver's kick panel. "pass kick, gray 39 pin plug, pin 30 or BCM, white 24 pin plug, pin 24"Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

offroadzj wrote: The bulldogsecurity site agrees with the orange and brown so it is very possible that both are required. It says that they are pins 3 and 1... but still be sure to test the wires before connecting anything. If you need to diode isolate them then pick up 2 diodes (1n4004) and use them to split the unlock wire to both wires with the band in the diode facing towards the r/s unit.

And how do I know if I need the diodes? If the second/brown wire is in play then I uses the diodes? Then I just solder them inline with the wires?

If both wires are required (aka if the brown wire tests with the key in the cylinder) then diodes are required. Your best bet is to solder the 2 band sides of the diodes together to the unlock wire from the unit, then solder on 2 wire extensions (1 on each diode) and connect those to your wires in the car. Don't connect the diodes directly to the wires in the car... its a lot easier to work with a wire than the diode... and if the diode flexes too much it will break at the solder joint. So by adding the wire extensions you can bundle the diodes together (once they are properly taped / shrink tubed to prevent shorting together) and it will help keep them both from flexing too much.Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

OK, I can confirm that the brown wire did also go to ground with the key in the door, so I've installed diodes using your wire lead suggestion and shrink wrapped them. I'm now testing for the tach wire. I think I have the correct wire (white wire, driver's kick, black 33 pin, pin #28). With the vehicle running, this wire reads 7 volts with very little variation but does not change when revving the engine. In fact, I'd say it's more steady. The Viper install manual that someone provided a link for earlier in this thread said that voltage should be between 1-6v and that it should change when revved. I guess I could go for an injector but ...

offroadzj wrote: The hood pin wire may not necessarily show 12v when the hood is closed. But it should show ground when it is opened. Connect the red lead of your DMM to a known 12v source and the black lead to the wire you are testing. Then open the hood and see if you show voltage. If not then you do not have the right wire... keep looking around in the DKP... it may be hidden somewhere in the harness. I just checked ready remote's wire diagram and it says that the hood pin is green in the pass. kick panel, not the driver's kick panel. "pass kick, gray 39 pin plug, pin 30 or BCM, white 24 pin plug, pin 24"

I moved over to the passenger side and have been trying to test this wire according to your instructions above. With the key off I have 12v whether the hood pin is depressed or not. With the key on I have almost 0 whether the pin is depressed or not. I disconnected the wire from the hood pin itself to test continuity. Even with the gray 39 pin disconnected, the meter will only go down to 0.066. Could I actually have a bad wire?

The other thing I forgot to check about has to do with the neutral safety switch. The switch provided with the rs has a little connector that snaps into the brain. However, another neutral switch wire is provided on the 18 pin harness. I don't see anything that corresponds to that on the Sonata's wire list. Would this only be used if a car has a factory safety switch?

connect that white neutral safety to ground if its automatic. for manual connect to ebrake.Ted

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert

tedmond wrote: connect that white neutral safety to ground if its automatic.

Thanks. Mine is automatic. Any particular reason you're identifying that wire as white? It's actually BLACK/ white on this rs.

I would keep looking for your hood pin switch. it sounds like you may not have the correct wire.Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205