honda civic del sol, dx370 siren failure

what do you need relays for with the doors? Are you talking about the door locks? If so does your car have power locks with a switch? If you do have an actual switch then you do not need relays for the locks. They should just be negative pulse. Power Lock      GREEN / WHITE      -      drivers kick panel Notes: Door lock module in door. Remove silver cruise module in drivers kick panel and pull door harness out to access 20 pin plug. Lock wires on door side of plug. Power Unlock      GREEN/ red      -      drivers kick panel Notes: Door lock module in door. Remove silver cruise module in drivers kick panel and pull door harness out to access 20 pin plug. Lock wires on door side of plug.Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

Ta Kenny, I ain't done one of these in about 15 years and the UK model needed an actuator. Also a right pain was getting through with the trunk trigger wiring, the UK version had a beast of a roof which lowered electrically into the car, oh what fun to get around the mechanism. We are talking about the CRX coupé rather than Civic sedan aren't we?

P.S. Why relays? N.B. The motor wires are the easiest part, just find the motor wires in each door.

They are both two-wire aftermarket actuators. Everything I've read says it needs to be wired into a relay such as: http://teamsolcal.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=5026 The picture is wired wrong but the diagram is correct. It is the crx coupe but the american version doesn't have the transtop (thank the lord).

You called it right ref. the power top! More trouble than it was worth. I was under the impression that vehicle had central locking, the UK version only had one actuator with just a switch in the driver's door, have you verified this? If you are adding actuators and I remember that job as being a right bloody pain, does your alarm have 2 0r 6 lock wires. If 6 it means you have built in relays and can wire direct to the motors. If not get a complete kit with motors, wiring,fixings and most important, dedicated timer relay from DEI, Spal, MES etc. Best quality and it means you can override the remote with the key when the remote fails (remember it's a $30 alarm!) Then if only two wires on the alarm you still control the locks and it's much easier than wiring up 2 separate relays.

I just looked at those pictures in your link, the motor shown will never work, you need your pull rod to be nearly parallel with the factory linkage.

Just installed the driver side actuator and had it wired like the I posted (with the two relays). And it works! Now to wire the passenger side door...And it was a two wire actuator and I already had the relays but the timer relay will be something I look into. As far as the actuator, that wasn't my thread/car haha. Mine is perfectly parallel with the rod.

Glad about the linkage angle, mechanically, it's extremely important, the big trick of course is to get a smooth pull. The timer relay is more relevant if you use a 5 wire actuator on the driver's side then you have key operated locks as a back up, controlled by the dedicated timer relay. Actually simpler than your set-up!

Well, that's what I get for not knowing exactly what I'm doing haha. Good to know for the future though. Also, my alarm came with a 2 stage shock sensor (4 wires). Could I swap it out for a motion sensor like a dei 508d (also 4 wires). Or will these two be incompatible. Let me know if there's not enough information provided.

It should plug in but again, VERIFY that the wires are equivalent to each other.