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2005 dodge ram 2 way alarm / remote start


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offroadzj 
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Joined: June 03, 2005
Location: New York, United States
Posted: January 26, 2012 at 6:50 PM / IP Logged  
The GWR wire will connect to the (-)200ma status output of the Viper (small blue wire). If I'm not mistaking, that model Viper will have a white parking light output and a WHITE/ brown parking light input. It has a relay built into the unit and makes it easier. You can then put the resistor between the 2 jumpers on the brain for (-) parking lights. Just make sure to get it in there tightly. Then simply cut the parking light wire, connect the white to the vehicle side and the WHITE/ brown to the switch side.
Make sure that you test everything. Don't just assume that a wire diagram is correct. And make sure to isolate the parking light wire. If you do not, it is very easy to damage the factory switch.
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205
stebob 
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Joined: January 25, 2012
Location: Indiana, United States
Posted: January 27, 2012 at 8:23 AM / IP Logged  

Ok, great, thanks!

Noted: will test everything before connection. Glad you mentioned it or I would have assumed..

You are correct, it has a WHITE/ brown and white for the light flash relay.  I will connect the parking lights to it from the switch. The manual was a littel confusing to distinguis between what to do with the WHITE/ brown and white.  Now I get it.

It appears I will not need to use the H2 auxillary 8 pin harness at all.  Unless there is something I'm missing? I don't want to connect the horn and don't think I need the factory arm/disarm for any reason.  Unless I'm missing something...?

I don't need to connect to the door trigger + input on the Viper as the ilink has the (-) door trigger output on the yellow/black wire.

I figure where I am now it determining what wires I do NOT have to connect.  When knowing all wires that must be connected, I should be able to figure from there.  At least for hte most part. :)

offroadzj 
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Posted: January 27, 2012 at 9:06 AM / IP Logged  
You can check if the vehicle has a factory alarm (and thus if you require the factory alarm connections). Open the driver side window, lock the door with the factory remote *Make sure to press the lock button at least 3 times to ensure that any alarm was armed because some systems require 2 presses of lock to arm the security. Let the vehicle sit for at least 2 minutes and then reach in and open the door. If the horn/alarm goes off then you will need to connect the factory alarm wires.
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205
stebob 
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Member spacespace
Joined: January 25, 2012
Location: Indiana, United States
Posted: January 27, 2012 at 10:37 AM / IP Logged  

Ah, yes, I have factory alarm. 

So now my uncertainty sets in when looking at the ilink wiring.  It's shows "lock/arm (-) input GREEN/ black", and then "disarm (-) input brown".  I took this to mean arm/disarm for the Viper, not the factory alarm.  This wiring in the ilink manual is part of the "data" w2w wiring.

To futher confuse me, the dodge truck wiring states " Factory Alarm Arm PURPLE / lt. blue   -  driver kick, door harness

Notes: This will also do door locks. Arm/lock is negative trigger thru a 644 ohm resistor. Disarm/unlock is negative trigger thru a 1565 ohm resistor. Single pulse will do disarm without unlocking the doors. Unlock requires a double pulse. MUST use relays."

With that said, perhaps the ilink handles the arm/disarm for the factory alarm and I don't need to touch the (-) 200mA factory arm and disarm output wiring on the Viper?

stebob 
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Member spacespace
Joined: January 25, 2012
Location: Indiana, United States
Posted: January 27, 2012 at 10:43 AM / IP Logged  

What I'm saying is with the w2w connection for the lock/arm (-) input is already connected to the Viper green wire for (-) lock (+) unlock output...as the ilink indicats it's the same wire (GREEN/ black)  So, I still need to connec the ilink "disarm (-) input brown" to the (-) 200mA Factory Alarm Disarm Output" on the Viper.   I only need to connect that one wire in the H2 Aux 8 pin harness.

tedmond 
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Posted: January 27, 2012 at 10:47 AM / IP Logged  
the idatalink will handle disarm for you. just connect lock wires from the viper to the idatalink.
no need for diarm input (unless it say to use it)
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert
offroadzj 
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Posted: January 27, 2012 at 11:13 AM / IP Logged  
Yes, ted is correct (as usual.. haha). I was not looking at the bypass information and forgot that it controls your arm/disarm.
But Ted, maybe I'm wrong on this, but wouldn't you want to connect the arm/disarm wires between the r/s and the bypass or is the bypass programmed to automatically disarm when remote started (thus not needing a w2w disarm)? I was out of the game so long I'm still learning how these new bypasses work... haha.
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205
stebob 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: January 25, 2012
Location: Indiana, United States
Posted: January 27, 2012 at 12:27 PM / IP Logged  

Well, it appears the ilink is wanting the disarm wire connected.  It's a dotted line from the ilink to the RS.  The disarm is a spearate wire only labeled disarm (brown) on the ilink, but the arm is also lock.  So..if I do w2w it appears the brown wire would need to be connected.  Kinda sucks as it appears the only wire on the 8 pin Aux H2 harness will be the factory disarm wire (light GREEN/ black).

I'm really starting to think the the rs232 data connection between the RS and ilink is the way to go...

tedmond 
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Posted: January 27, 2012 at 5:43 PM / IP Logged  
Connect. Lock unlock and disarm to the I datalink. Most bypass modules will disarm when it senses ground when running. As mentioned if it asks for a disarm wire input, then use it. If not usually it will bypass by data or keysense
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert
stebob 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: January 25, 2012
Location: Indiana, United States
Posted: January 30, 2012 at 8:32 AM / IP Logged  

Well it doesn't really ask for it, but it is shown with dotted lines to the RS.  If I just use the D2D it'll be covered.  I think the D2D will make this a lot easier.  I think that'll be my plan. Hopefully that communicates nice and smooth for me.

I think I have the rest of the wiring figured out and ready to go.  Assuming wire colors at this point, of course, I can verify once I start the install.

I was hoping I could throw out my wiring connections and ask you guys to check it out just to make sure I'm correct.  That something you guys would be willing to do?  If cool with you, I'll post it up along with the truck wiring off this site.

Thanks again for all the help. I know it's frustrating to answer such basic questions.

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