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2005 dodge ram 2 way alarm / remote start


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tedmond 
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Joined: January 06, 2007
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: January 30, 2012 at 11:47 AM / IP Logged  
for the extra 10min spent on w2w, it might save you headaches down the road caused by d2d. just my .2 cents.
might as well post and we can check.
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert
stebob 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: January 25, 2012
Location: Indiana, United States
Posted: January 30, 2012 at 1:31 PM / IP Logged  

Yeah, I hear ya on the W2W.  I'll give the D2D a try and see how it goes.  Here is what I have:

Viper H1 Primary Harness:

  • 1. RED / White 200ma trunk release - D2D (W2W RED / White idatalink, but not needed)
  • 2. Red - 12V Contant ran from battery
  • 3. Brown Siren Output - To siren
  • 4. WHITE/ Brown Light Flash Iso - 590ohm resistor -WHITE/ Light Green parking lights at switch cut in 2.
  • 5. Ground - Ground
  • 6. Voilet + door trigger input - N/C
  • 7. Blue trunk pin/instant trigger - N/C
  • 8. Green (-) door trigger intput - D2D - (W2W Yellow/Black idatalink)
  • 9. BLACK/ White dome light output - relay with yellow/light blue or yellow/orange in truck (must determine which)
  • 10. WHITE/ Blue (-) remote start / turbo timer - N/C
  • 11. White Parking light output - WHITE/ light green (other side of cut wire from parking light switch as #4)
  • 12. Orange (-)500ma ground when armed - N/C

Viper Aux Harness 8 Pin:

  • 1. Light Green / Black (-)200ma factory alarm disarm output - D2D (W2W - Brown idatalink)
  • 2. Light Green / White 200ma  Factory alarm arm output - N/C
  • 3. White / Violet aux 1 out - N/C
  • 4. Violet / Black aux 2 out - N/C
  • 5. White / Black aux 3 out - N/C
  • 6. Light Blue 2 unlock out - N/C
  • 7. Gray / Black diesel wait to start - N/C
  • 8. Brown / Black horn honk - N/C

Viper Heavy Gauge 10 Pin:

  • 1. Pink IGN 1 input / output - Pink / White (Truck)
  • 2. Red / White + Fused IGN 2 / flex relay in - 12V constant
  • 3. Orange Accessory ouput - Dark Blue or Pink Yellow (Truck)
  • 4. Violet starter output - Yellow (truck, truck side)
  • 5. Green starter input - Yellow (truck, key side)
  • 6. Red + fused 30amp IGN 1 input - 12V constant
  • 7. Pink / White IGN 2 / Flex relay output - Pink/ LIght Green (truck)
  • 8. Pink / Black flex relay input key side - N/C
  • 9. Red / Black + fused 30amp accessory/starter input - 12V constant
  • 10. N/C

Viper Remote Start 5 Pin:

  • 1. Black / White neutral safety switch input - Ground
  • 2. Violet / White tach input - D2D (W2W purple / white idatalink)
  • 3. Brown + brake shutdown input - D2D (W2W gray / red)
  • 4. Gray hood pin - Hood pin after located and mounted
  • 5. Blue / white 200ma 2nd status/rear defogger - N/C

Viper remote start aux out 5 pin:

  • 1. Pink / white flex relay control out - N/C
  • 2. Orange access out - N/C
  • 3. Violet starter output - N/C
  • 4. Pink IGN 1 output - N/C
  • 5. Blue status output - D2D (W2W - Blue / Whate - GWR idatalink)

Viper Door Lock 3 pin:

  • 1. Blue +  lock - unlock output - D2D (W2W blue / black idatalink)
  • 2. N/C
  • 3. Green - lock + unlock output - D2D (W2W green / black idatalink)

Idatalink:

  • White / Black - Pin 4 SKIM (SKIM side)
  • White / Red - Pin 4 SKIM (idatalink side)
  • Yellow analog out put - Purple / Light Blue (truck door lock with diode..in kick panel)
  • Orange / Black - Ground due to OEM alarm present
  • Orange - Pin 2 SKIM module (J1850)
  • Pink Ignition + input - Pin 4 SKIM (idatalink side)

idatalink ADS-ALSL Ch6 Installation Manual

http://store.idatalink.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=154

Viper 5901 Installaion Manual:

http://www.directeddealers.com/manuals/IG/Viper/N5702V_2008_08web.pdf

TRUCK WIRING:

DIRECTWIRE™ WIRING INFORMATION - DODGE / RAM PICKUP / 2005 / Remote Start

12volts red (40A), red (40A)   +   ignition harness
Starter yellow   +   ignition harness
Second Starter N/A       
Ignition pink/white   +   ignition harness
Second Ignition pink/lt. green   +   ignition harness
Third Ignition pink / YELLOW (10 AWG)(3rd acc)   +   ignition harness
Notes: This wire is not required for remote start. It only provides power to the power window circuit.
Accessory dk. blue and pink/yel (16 AWG) +   ignition harness
Second Accessory pink / YELLOW (14 AWG)   +   ignition harness
Keysense PURPLE / tan   -   ignition harness
Power Lock PURPLE / dk. green   -   driver kick, door harness
Notes: Lock is negative trigger thru an 820 ohm resistor. Unlock is negative trigger thru a 330 ohm resistor. MUST use relays.
Can also use Directed 457C or 456L interface modules.
Power Unlock same as power lock wire       
Lock Motor lt. green   5wi driver kick, door harness
Unlock Motor tan/lt. green   5wi driver kick, door harness
Parking Lights+ WHITE/ yel (L), WHITE/ gray (R)   +   harness at top of driver fender
Parking Lights- WHITE/ lt. green   -   headlight switch
Notes: Parking lights are negative trigger thru a 590 ohm resistor. MUST use a relay.
Hazards WHITE/ orange   -   hazard switch
Notes: Hazards are negative trigger thru a 120 ohm resistor. MUST use a relay.
Turn Signal(L) use hazards wire       
Turn Signal(R) use hazards wire       
Reverse Light WHITE/ lt. green   +   inside mirror or plug by PCM
Notes: The PCM is on the passenger side firewall.
Door Trigger see notes   -   see notes
Notes: The driver door trigger is purple and the driver side rear door is PURPLE / orange. These wires are in the driver kick panel. The passenger door trigger is PURPLE / white and the passenger side rear door is purple / YELLOW. These wires are in the passenger kick panel. Use all four wires and diode isolate each. See DirectFax document 1076 for wiring information.
Dome Supervision yellow/lt. blue or yellow/org   +   driver A pillar or cluster
Trunk/Hatch Pin N/A       
Hood Pin N/A       
Trunk/Hatch Release N/A       
Power Sliding Door N/A       
Factory Alarm Arm PURPLE / lt. blue   -   driver kick, door harness
Notes: This will also do door locks. Arm/lock is negative trigger thru a 644 ohm resistor. Disarm/unlock is negative trigger thru a 1565 ohm resistor. Single pulse will do disarm without unlocking the doors. Unlock requires a double pulse. MUST use relays.
Can also use Directed 457C or 456L interface modules.
Factory Alarm Disarm same as factory alarm arm wire       
Disarm No Unlock see factory alarm disarm       
Tachometer dk. blue/gray   ac   PCM, orange plug, pin 34
Notes: The PCM is on the passenger side firewall.
On SRT-10 models, the tach wire is in the black plug, pin 18.
On diesel models, the tach wire is at the ECM on the lower driver side of the engine, 60 pin plug, pin 24, or at the camshaft position sensor just left of the ECM, in a 3 pin plug.
On gas models, can also go to any ignition coil or fuel injector and use the wire that is NOT BROWN / white.
Wait to start see DirectFax document 1091       
Brake Wire WHITE/ tan   +   brake pedal switch
Parking Brake dk. GREEN / WHITE   -   parking brake switch
Horn Trigger dk. GREEN/ purple   -   horn switch
Memory Seat 1 N/A       
Memory Seat 2 N/A       
Memory Seat 3 N/A       
Immobilizer Bypass Module: Required: Yes Type: Sentry Key Part #: 555C, 556U, or 555U
Notes: Only vehicles with gray keys have the immobilizer.

 

offroadzj 
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Joined: June 03, 2005
Location: New York, United States
Posted: January 30, 2012 at 5:38 PM / IP Logged  
At quick look I found a few corrections you need to make.
1) The WHITE/ brown wire will go directly to the switch side of your cut parking light wire... not through the resistor. All this wire does is to disconnect the factory parking light wire to prevent backfeed to the switch.
2) White will go to the vehicle side of the cut parking light wire. The resistor needs to go in thhe fuse jumper for (-) parking lights. If you put it on the actual white wire you will have factory light issues because you will be running both the factory resistance as well as the added resistance through the new resistor. So the new resistor HAS to go in the fuse jumper.
3) How you want to do tach is up to you. I've had good luck so far with the ADS tach signal, but if you want 100% reliability and not have to worry about it, you can connect the tach directly to the vehicle.
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205
stebob 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: January 25, 2012
Location: Indiana, United States
Posted: January 30, 2012 at 5:52 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks, offeoad!
I appreciate the clarification. How you stated is exactly how I understood the parking lights to be connected. Rereading it I see how I was unclear.
Noted on the tach. I'll try it via the ilink and see what happens.
Soo..aside from those points, I got 'er, huh?!
offroadzj 
Gold - Posts: 2,043
Gold spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: June 03, 2005
Location: New York, United States
Posted: January 30, 2012 at 6:03 PM / IP Logged  
The only other thing I see is that you will need a relay to power the 2nd accessory wire (the flex relay pink/white will go to the 2nd ignition).
Pick up a standard 30a/40a 4-pin relay and wire as follows:
Pin 85 - (-)200ma 2nd Accessory output (from remote start relay harness)
Pin 86 - 12v constant fused
Pin 87 - 12v constant fused (30amp)
Pin 30 - 2nd accessory wire.
You can also use a 5-pin relay but if you do make sure to connect pins 87 and 30 exactly as above so you don't have to worry about the center pin resting at 12v and take the risk (extremely minimal risk, but anything can happen) of shorting it out.
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205
stebob 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: January 25, 2012
Location: Indiana, United States
Posted: January 30, 2012 at 7:22 PM / IP Logged  
Oh, didnt realize that on the pink/white. Is it ok to jump 86 and 87 together?
A constant 12v feed question I have. I though I would run 10ga wire from the battery with a 60amp fuse up by the battery. I thought I would use tgis as my primary feed and connect all 12v constants to this feed. Sound reasonable?
stebob 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: January 25, 2012
Location: Indiana, United States
Posted: January 30, 2012 at 7:27 PM / IP Logged  
Guess I really need 8 ga for 60 amps and that might just be a bit too small. Not sure I can fit another 4ga into my cab...easily anyway.
offroadzj 
Gold - Posts: 2,043
Gold spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: June 03, 2005
Location: New York, United States
Posted: January 30, 2012 at 8:03 PM / IP Logged  
Even 10awgfor is overkill. 30amps is be plenty and you can run a 12awg and be perfectly fine to connect all constants to that wire.
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205
tedmond 
Gold - Posts: 4,610
Gold spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 06, 2007
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: January 30, 2012 at 8:06 PM / IP Logged  
10 gauge should be more than sufficient. i usually use 12 gauge and fuse it at 30 amps. true 12gauge can handle up to 40 amps
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert
stebob 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: January 25, 2012
Location: Indiana, United States
Posted: January 30, 2012 at 9:01 PM / IP Logged  
Cool! I'll throw a 10ga at it and be happy. :)
So, on that relay...jumping 86 and 87 toghether and running a constant to one of them is fine, right?
You guys have been a tremendous help. Once again, THANKS!
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