1991 toyota land cruiser hdj81 japan spec

so i picked up a DEI 454t tach signal generator i now have the tach signal learned i am using the orange and green wire on the 454T my landcruiser starts fine when engine is warm with remote start and with key i have problems cold starting only with remote start and it seems to under crank when remote starting. i have tried increasing the Starter Release Fine Tune default from 6 up to 20 and it still under cranks. what can i do to get a reliable cold remote start??

One or two starter wires?

It has 2 starter wires And 2 ignitions I have flex relay set to ign 2

Use this, follow the wiring and use the diodes (1N4004):- 2nd._ignition_and_starter.bmp Also I suggest relearn tach, this time increase the engine revs to about 1300 when you hit the learn.

Ok so i neen 2 more relays and 2 more diodes If im guessing correctly starter3 and ign2 are not getteng enfough power I have been using the bitewriter for most of the programing But there is a nother option thats not avaiable in the bitwriters options Under menu 3 - 14 "tach mode starter release" Options are: Normal Increase Decrease Should i bother playing with those setting? Or is it the same as the 0-20 crank time ajustment ob the bitwriter?

Sorry, flex relay can only handle EITHER one or the other so you will still need a relay and diode. What starter 3? Ignore the bitwriter and do as I said, as a a last resort if the other suggested remedies fail increase the revs on programming. You must have a separate relay (either flex or internal) for each extra ignition and or starter wire.

Sorry starter 3 is a typo. Ok thanks for clearing that up. It makes sence now

A couple of thoughts...

Any chance the "Diesel Wait to Start" function isn't working properly?   Just a

thought being as it starts OK when warm.  Maybe as a test, you could switch to aa fixed delay of 15 or even 30 seconds and see if it remote starts when cold.

Remote Start, (H3) 10-pin connector

H3/1  PINK(+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT   BLACK / YELLOW (+)        IGN1 @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS      H3/2  RED / WHITE FLEX RELAY +12V INPUT          Black (+)     +12V @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS      H3/3  ORANGE(+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT    BLUE/RED (+)      ACC @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS       H3/4  VIOLET(+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE)    BLACK/ WHITE (+)             Starter @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS       H3/5  GREEN(+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE)      BLACK/ WHITE (+) Starter @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS       H3/6  RED IGNITION 1 +12V INPUT (30A FUSED)             WHITE/ Red (+)        +12V @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS      H3/7  PINK/WHITE FLEX RELAY OUTPUT Set to IGN2     blk/grn or blk/red   IGN2 @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS      H3/8  PINK/BLACK FLEX RELAY INPUT      unused   H3/9  RED / BLACK ACC/STARTER RELAY +12V INPUT   BLACK (+)   +12V @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS      H3/10  NC      No Connection   

If the vehicle does have a Starter2 wire, the easiest way to wire that using one 30/40A SPDT relay below:

Relay Pin 85 to Viper H2/18 (-)200ma Starter Output Violet / YELLOWRelay Pins 86 and 87 to +12V constant (WHITE/ Red) thru 20 or 30 Amp fuseRelay Pin 30 to vehicle Starter2 wire 

  

Soldering is fun!

I believe I suggested diesel setting when the OP was asking about WTS wire, quite a while back, also the OP has a bitwriter though I've already suggested he doesn't use for all the obvious reasons. The main being that most people make small errors when they use these systems for the first time. Instead of going back on what they've done they panic and compound the errors. I'm very much against newbies using software loaders. The UK version of the bitwriter wouldn't even work until the ignition was on, who had to work that one out?

I have. Checked the wait to start The glow plug wire works As soon as the light goes out the starter engages Flex relay already set to ign2 I need to get a second relay for start2