1991 toyota land cruiser hdj81 japan spec

I believe its just a typo in your post, but its the WHITE/ blue wire you do not need. The blue/white is the defrost output which also is not needed if you do not wish to have your rear defrost come on with the remote starter. As far as I know (and I can be wrong; I'm not 100% familiar with the newer DEI units), there is no option to automatically run the turbo timer. I believe that you have to activate it either by remote or by the momentary push button. On my car, I chose to use the activation input and then used a factory intercooler sprayer button (factory momentary contact button) to activate the turbo timer so that it remained factory appearing. Its a lot easier than dealing with the remote. From what I can tell, they appear to be input signals for both units. It would not hurt to diode isolate the signals, but it should not be required. As far as the push start ignition, are you completely eliminating a need for a key in the vehicle or will you still need to use it for the steering wheel lock (if applicable). If the key is still required in the ignition then the push button starter is not needed. A simple ground signal on the WHITE/ blue activation input will do everything that the push to start system is doing. As far as the push to start enable wire (purple), how I understand the module is that this requires a CONSTANT ground signal to maintain the push to start module functionality. The vehicle should remote start without this wire connected. If you want the remote start to activate and provide the ground to allow the push to start module to operate then you will have to use a latching relay setup (momentary/pulse input to constant signal) that will maintain the ground signal to the module. See HereKenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

Another option you have for the ground signal when the viper is disarmed is to connect the activation wire of the PTS module through a relay to a chassis ground, and use the Viper ground when armed to open/disconnect the relay. The downside to this is that every time the vehicle is armed the relay will be drawing power (minimal draw, but a draw none the less). So if you leave the vehicle armed for a long period of time it could drain the battery. Also, if you ever left the viper disarmed, anybody could simply get in your car and activate the ignition and drive away. Your best bet will probably be to pick up the dedicated key module that goes with that PTS system for the best protection.Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

Kenny is right on both counts, use any aux to 85 on diagram 2, set up as timed for 1.5 minutes. Activate that aux before turning off the ignition. On the second topic Kenny's point about a momentary switch to the white blue is spot on. Will save you the cost and time installing the push start. KISS which is probably an oxymoron with ref. to this thread.

7 to 10 hrs. at 1.3 amps (coil load) to flatten the battery.

Wow... I was never aware how much amperage a relay pulled (never really measured it). I was thinking milliamps... not amps. haha. Yea, I wouldn't suggest going that route.Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

So the reason why im converting to push to start is is because my ignition and door lock cylinders is busted as the truck was stolen there is no ignition steering wheel lock anymore I have asked advancedkeys how they did it because there is a video on youtube of a scion that had a viper 5902 and the pushtostart youtube video link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ADWWpuIRMno i also sent a email to advanced keys to see if i need a relay to hook up the aux port from the viper to the advanced keys and here is there reply: "You can directly connect to Viper’s (-) aux output and you also need to change Jump JP2 to “Ground Enable” type and reboot power to the controller to take effect. After which you should be able to see the “Amber” light on the Push-Start button whenever Viper aux supply the ground signal to it." i am thinking of wiring both of these modules together making one harness to tap in to the rest of the trucks wiring.

Ok, so going by their response, it seems like the ground is only required to activate the ignition and then once activated, the ground can go away... but I would verify that with them just to be 100% sure. You don't want to get a mile from your house and all of a sudden have the ignition shut down because the ground was lost.Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

Just in the process of putting my wiring harness together. and I have a few more questions. is there a specific manual for the 5904 that tells what each wire does? what are the best practices for diode usages how do you know when to use a diode??? I have been using the manual for the 5901 from the downloads selection only for the wire descriptions but since its a different model I just want to make sure I am not missing anything. wires I am not hooking up. H1/4   WHITE/ BROWN      PARKING LIGHT ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a of onboard relay        unknown/unused    H2/1   PINK/WHITE      (-) 200mA IGNITION/FLEX RELAY CONTROL OUTPUT     unknown/unused Not used      H2/4   GREEN/ BLACK      (-) 200mA OEM ALARM DISARM OUTPUT          no factory alarm     Not used H2/9   DARK BLUE      (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT  unknown/unused H2/10  PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT  unknown/unused H2/18  VIOLET / YELLOW      (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT  unknown/unused H2/22  ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT  unknown/unused H2/24  GREEN / WHITE      (-) 200mA OEM ALARM ARM OUTPUT  no factory alarm     no factory alarm not used H3/8   PINK/BLACK      (87a) FLEX RELAY INPUT (key side of ign, acc or starter wire if needed) unknown/unused     

First there should be an installation guide with your unit, if not or you purchased from fleabay good luck. Think of a diode as a stop valve, in this case current flow, generally any device incorporating relays or a relay trigger such as lock, the feed wire should have a diode inserted to block feedback from the relay coil. Neg outputs from the 5904 should have band towards the alarm. Also look at the diode section on this site.

help programing the tachometer.. T tried following these instructions in the manual and I cannot seem to get a status light light after 3 seconds.. i have verified the tachometer wire using a voltmeter AC and I am reading 0.3 to 0.35 ~ volts AC. Here are the steps I tried to follow below To learn the tach signal: 1. Start the vehicle with the key. Within 5 seconds, press and hold the Control button. 2. After 3 seconds the status LED on your Control Center lights constant when the tach signal is learned. 3. Release the Control button. Note: When the tachometer is programmed, the main unit automatically enters the Tachometer engine checking mode. Since this unit has the capability to learn the tachometer with the analog input or through D2D from an interface module, the unit gives confirmation as to which source the unit has learned from. After learning the tach and releasing the Control button, the system: Flashes the parking lights once if programmed using the analog tach wire. Flashes the parking lights twice if programmed using the interface module through D2D.