autopage c3 rs 730 lock/ unlock

I have just installed the autopage c3 rs-730 onto a 2006 Ford F-350 6.0 Diesel, and the remote will lock the doors but will not unlock the doors. I tapped into the WHITE/ Red and BLACK/ White wires in the drivers kick panel. I thought that Fords had negative trigger door lock system but I could be wrong. Also I'm not sure if I tapped into the correct Door Trigger. I used the BLACK/ Light blue Domelight Supervision wire. Currently the 2-way remote does not show any doors opened when they are open except the hood. Any advice would be much appreciated as I am kinda stuck right now. Thank you The install manual can be found here: http://www.autopageusa.com/resources/C3-RS-730install1.pdf

Okay so here is an update... I found the schematics on page 14 of the manual in the previous link. This is the DMM readings I am getting... With doors locked; I measure volts at unlock wire and read 0 and Lock reads 12v.. When unlock switch is engaged Unlick now reads 12V and Lock reads 0... To me that would be a ground switched Door lock. Can someone please verify if the truck is an alternating Door lock system or do I have it correct? And should I be using the "2 Step Door Unlock Wire Connection" Schematic on page 14 of the manual? Any input would be much appreciated. Thank you

Here is a note from Bulldog Security  on the 2006 Super Duty locks:

POWER LOCK          PINK / YELLOW (TYPE C), See NOTE #3   in DRIVERS KICK PANEL, @ DOOR HARNESS

POWER UNLOCK      PINK/LIGHT GREEN (TYPE C), See NOTE #3       in DRIVERS KICK PANEL, @ DOOR HARNESS

 

NOTE #3: Vehicles WITHOUT a FACTORY KEYLESS Entry Remote Control are a TYPE "C" Door Locking System. Vehicles WITH a FACTORY KEYLESS Entry Remote Control are a TYPE "B" Door Locking System and the LOCK wire is a WHITE/ RED (TYPE B) and the UNLOCK is a BLACK/ WHITE TYPE B), BOTH are located in the Drivers Kick Panel, at the Door Harness.

Soldering is fun!

If you have Type C locks, you would need relays and follow the 5 Wire diagram on Page 13.  ( A DEI 451M module would make things easier.)Soldering is fun!

This vehicle is equipped with a factory keyless entry. So i would assume it is a type B. I found out that the alarm itself isn't sending the pulse out on the "H4 3 Pin door lock connector. Currently going back through to make sure all Connections are correct.. Any ideas as to why it wouldnt be sending the pulse from the brain of the alarm? Other than being defective... Thank you so much for your help thus far

Looks like the door lock outputs are push-pull.  ( Not an Autopage installer )  Perhaps a diode is in order.  Try a 1N400x diode on the output wires with the band towards the R/S brain.  This will allow only the needed (-) signal thru to the truck.  You can test the unattached wire with a DMM.  Set to 20V DC and connect the Black lead to the R/S lock ( or unlock ) wire and the Red lead to +12V constant.  Press the lock ( or unlock ) button and you should see a +12V pulse for .8 second.  Also verify the Black Main System Ground wire has a good solid frame connection.Soldering is fun!

Thank you... I was putting the Pos lead to the wire instead of the negative lead. Probably why I wasn't reading the pulse. I will try shooting it correctly tomorrow. Calling it a night. I'll post first thing in the morning the results.

Okay... So I hooked the DMM positive up to a constant 12V power source and the negative to the RS leads. And the blue wire reads 12V while unlocking. And the Green wire reads 12v while locking... Seems that the unit is indeed sending the correct pulse out. But when I connect it to the truck... Only the lock function works... The door locks on the truck read on the DMM both positive AND negative volts for about 10 seconds when shooting each wire and engaging the switch for Lock and the unlock. So why wouldn't the negative pulse being sent by the RS not work? Should I Diode the Unlock wire, only, to make it positive? I also checked the ground and it is a solid ground.

Also, in looking at my wiring I didn't hook up the pink wire ( H6/3 on the 20 pin connector) on page 9 of the manual... I'm wondering if that's why it's not unlocking... It doesn't say what to hook it up to though? Where would I hook that wire to?

I would use a diode on both Lock and Unlock outputs.  If you are absolutely certain you have the correct BLACK/ White

Unlock wire, you can test as follows.  Use a jumper with one end on chassis ground and the end other touch to the BLACK/ White Unlock wire.  ( A 1 Amp fuse in the jumper will add some safety.)  The doors should unlock.  That will prove you have the correct wire and the Autopage Unlock output is bad.

Here is some additional info from DEI for another location for the wires and a note about the unlock going to sleep.

Vehicles with keyless entry, the lock wire is WHITE/ red (-), in the driver kick, door harness or also at the VSM, gray plug, pin 3.

Vehicles with keyless entry, the unlock wire is BLACK/ white (-), in the driver kick, door harness or also at the VSM, gray plug, pin 2.

The VSM (Vehicle Security Module) is to the right of the accelerator pedal above the transmission hump below the radio.

Not accessible from radio opening.

Vehicles with keyless entry the VSM shuts down after the doors have been locked for a certain time period, to wake up the

system refer to Tech Doc 1094.

Tech Tip 1094 can be found here :  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=1077

Don't think H6/3 isn't an issue here.  It's used for "progressive unlocking".

Soldering is fun!