avital 5303 or viper 350 responder.

Hello every one, **I am fairly new to the forums but not new to electronics. However, this will be my first alarm install. **My car: 1990 Honda Accord LX Sedan. All stock with no security option from factory. No mods or kill switches installed. **Budget without accessories or installation as I will do it myself, $120. Both of the system listed below is about the same cost on Amazon, I understand doing it myself, I won't have any warranty, thus I want to choose DEI products and hope it will last. **The alarm systems that I am trying to decide: Viper 350 Responder vs. Avital 5303 **The only difference that I can see is the remote start which is optional and I could do without and I know it's easier to install. I would like to see if either of the system pro and cons, like range of remote, quality, and other options that I might have overlooked. ***Accessories that I am considering: Trunk release: would a simple actuator works or do I need the stronger solenoid system? Motion sensor, battery backup, I heard that the 520T battery backup might have issues with the battery not lasting longer than 10 minutes, thus, any battery upgrade option? Glass break sensor: Do really need this if I already have the motion sensor? What other accessories should I be considering? I like the window modules but having 4 doors, I have to get 2 modules right? Or is there a way to wire it so I could get away of spending on one module? **I already have the wiring scheme from this site and my final step is to decide which system. **IMPORTANT: any one has install a security system with remote start on this particular car before, Accord 90-93, that might have some useful tips or advices, to help the installation go smoothly, please post here so I and any one else could learn and use. ***Questions and confusions: 1) Door triggers: I know each door has it's door switch which can be trigger to the alarm. Is there a one trigger wire that will trigger the alarm when any of the doors opens? I would imagine it's the same trigger wire to the dome light? Important question is, would the trigger works if the come light switch is set to off and on? Or does it have to be set to doors at all times? 2) Relays: Do I need any extra external relays? If so how many based on the features I would like to have above? 3) Blocking diodes, where can I get them locally, and what specs I need to have on them? 4) I know all of the wiring could be connected by going behind the fuse box harnesses without needing the ignition modules. Is this recommended or should I go to both the ignition and fuse box? The advice I picked up somewhere is that going to fuse box only is better to delay the professional thief from disabling the system. 5) Stealth install: I would think the limitation is the length of the wires from the alarm brain. Let's say I want to put the brain and all relays under my driver's seat, would the wires from the brain and antenna reach under the seat? Or I need lots of extra wires to run to the brain for this type of stealth install? ***I thank you for reading. Any input and help is mostly appreciated.

You could probably pick up the door and trunk triggers from the instrument panel if you have warning icons for both. Just find the 2 wires that go to neg (-) when any door or trunk is open. Whilst you have the gauges out you will probably notice that there's lots of room behind. If so that's where you keep the alarm control unit. Very stealthy and no need for cable extensions. You will need a hood pin switch and you WILL need a relay and 2 diodes for the trunk solenoid, not door actuator, not strong enough. As for the units, I'm guessing without product knowledge that they are the same badge engineered product.

howie ll wrote: You could probably pick up the door and trunk triggers from the instrument panel if you have warning icons for both. Just find the 2 wires that go to neg (-) when any door or trunk is open. Whilst you have the gauges out you will probably notice that there's lots of room behind. If so that's where you keep the alarm control unit. Very stealthy and no need for cable extensions. You will need a hood pin switch and you WILL need a relay and 2 diodes for the trunk solenoid, not door actuator, not strong enough. As for the units, I'm guessing without product knowledge that they are the same badge engineered product.

I have taken the gauge cluster off before to fix a meter on it. There's no room behind the cluster. But I know where I am going put it probably under the shifting cover or right in the middle of the console. I have a metal cover for the main brain unit but I wonder if it over heats if I bolt the cover over the brain? I am ordering about 4 or 5 relays, are those enough or should I order more just in case. Where can I get the block diodes locally? What specs should I look for? Does the amps really matter on the diodes? Thanks.

1N4004, you should diode every alarm output wire going to a relay coil.

howie ll wrote: 1N4004, you should diode every alarm output wire going to a relay coil.

Do you mean that every external 5 pin relay that I add on, I should have a Diode for it? Thanks.

howie ll wrote: 1N4004, you should diode every alarm output wire going to a relay coil.

And how should I wire it for my car? Thanks.

Well normally the ouput from an alarm is negative going, so the band of the diode will always be facing the alarm side when connecting to the relay.commit your way to jehovah and he will act in your behalf. psalms 37:5

t&t tech wrote: Well normally the ouput from an alarm is negative going, so the band of the diode will always be facing the alarm side when connecting to the relay.

According to this diagram, would it be the other way around for a negative trigger? The band you mean the lighter stripe? Thanks.

howie ll wrote: You will need a hood pin switch and you WILL need a relay and 2 diodes for the trunk solenoid, not door actuator, not strong enough.

-What is the hood pin switch for? Use it as the trunk feed back trigger? -As you mentioned, I need a relay, that means the brain does not have the relay built in. -The 2 diodes, is it for the single wire hood trigger from the alarm brain and the trunk trigger? I am a little confuse there. Could you explain more clearly? I found this thread for my car, and apparently the simple actuator will work. But I still need a relay right? Sorry for all of the questions, but I want my first alarm install to go right. Thanks for the help and patient.

Don't attempt this you are going to fry your alarm and your car, why do I say this, because of your first statement about knowing electrics. Why do we diode the coil of the relay? Why would you need a hood switch? Come on.