avital 5303 or viper 350 responder.

Try the actuator, but you will still need a 5 pin relay to operate it. Hood switch is for protection. Diodes prevent shutdown feedback from the relay coil. You should only need 1 relay and 1 diode for the trunk release, 2 diodes for joining trunk trigger and hood pin switch. N.B. Trigger Door, hood etc. tell your alarm if one of these has been opened. Locks used in that sense they trigger a relay, usually low current pos (+) or neg (-)from the alarm.

howie ll wrote: Diodes prevent shutdown feedback from the relay coil.

-It's been a while since I review my physics. 1992 I think. I was just trying to remember how the signal is flowing in the blocking diode. I read the terms "striped" and "band", how are these different? "Striped is the white line on the black diode which gives you the short side cathode and the longer side anode right? Now the term "band" is it the anode side of the stripe?

howie ll wrote: N.B. Trigger

What's N.B. stand for?

howie ll wrote: Door, hood etc. tell your alarm if one of these has been opened.

Now my car has the door and trunk open warning in the gauge cluster, I could use the signal wires from those right? For the doors, I think it's easier to wire it to the warning signal wire to trigger then to wire to individual switches of each door and a diodes. For the trunk, instead of the pin switch, I could use warning signal wire to trigger the alarm. Keyless remote access: I notice some car remote, you press once it unlocks only the driver's door. Press twice and it unlocks all the doors. Is that a feature in the alarm or the car must have that feature for the alarm to use it? I know my car can only open the driver's door with the key and use the inside switch to open all doors. Thanks.

Band = stripe, denotes the cathode or pos side. If for instance you want a pos to go from left to right the band is on the right. If you want neg from left to right then the band is on the left. N.B. = Latin for Note Well. I already told you to use the instrument cluster for door AND trunk triggers. You either can't read or don't listen, I'm not sure what's worse in a would be installer You will need to find your driver door unlock motor wire and an extra relay. In the following diagram purple denotes the driver unlock wire in the DKP and note the two diodes:- honda.bmp

howie ll wrote: I already told you to use the instrument cluster for door AND trunk triggers. You either can't read or don't listen, I'm not sure what's worse in a would be installer

Lol, I can handle that. As long as you feed me the info I need. Hey, I really appreciated this info you are giving me. The way you are giving me info is like my Dad used to teach me how to make my hand writing perfect. Good memories. Lol.

I'm probably old enough to be your Dad! My grandson is 14. That last diagram is WRONG!. Look at this I've transposed the 2nd. unlock and unlock wires. The driver door lock wire is possibly WHITE/ red but TEST.:- 6DZ_honda.bmp And this is how to do the roof:- 7AB_honda_roof.bmp

howie ll wrote: That last diagram is WRONG!. Look at this I've transposed the 2nd. unlock and unlock wires. The driver door lock wire is possibly WHITE/ red but TEST.:- 6DZ_honda.bmp And this is how to do the roof:- 7AB_honda_roof.bmp

I don't have a sun roof so I won't worry about it for now. The first wrong diagram seems more digestible, but it's wrong. The 2nd "6DZ_honda.bmp", I need some time to digest it. I am going to take a break from studying this to rewiring my car audio system. Thanks Dad. Lol.

If my car doesn't have the priority lock feature, could I wire it in if the alarm has the 2nd unlock wire? If yes, then how to connect the relay? Thanks.

Again I already showed you that.https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/uploads/6DZ_honda.bmp

howie ll wrote: Again I already showed you that.https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/uploads/6DZ_honda.bmp

Let me make sure I read the diagram correctly. For the first click opening just the driver's front door, 1) Alarm brain unlock wire goes to a diode to relay switch #85. #30 goes to the door, 87a goes back to the car unlock wire, #86 and #87 go to a fused 10A constant 12V. Second click with all doors open is where I am a little weary: 1) 2nd unlock wire from the alarm brain to BLACK/ white to lock or BLACK/ red to unlock? So this is a direct connect to the car wires without any relay or diodes. What's "DKP" stands for? Thanks.

2nd. click yes. Now you understand it. DKP = Driver's kick panel.