avital 5303 or viper 350 responder.

Use an aux.

howie ll wrote: Use an aux.

So do I still use the "6DZ_honda.bmp" diagram? But instead of the second unlock wire, I use an aux output? Do I need a relay for that? Would the remote still works the same, one click for driver's door and 2 clicks for all doors? So will this thread, post #4 works for it? But use an Aux instead of the 2nd unlock wire? Thanks.

Yes, you press unlock then press aux, not 2 clicks.

The shock sensors. In system with built in brain shock sensor vs those with external shock sensor, are there any advantages and disadvantages between the 2 systems? Thanks.

howie ll wrote: Again I already showed you that.https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/uploads/6DZ_honda.bmp

Hi Howard, If I do it like this, will I still retain the OEM switch function in the car? Right now, my driver's side and passenger's side switch will open all doors. So if I wire it with the relay for door priority, will I still can use the internal OEM door switch on the driver's side to open all doors if I manually flip it? Thanks.

Yes.

howie ll wrote: Yes.

Hey Thanks. Another question for you. The alarm has the relay included for the starter kill. I don't want to cut the starter wire, but instead I want to kill the main relay ground which would kill the fuel and ECU instead. Would I use the 2 wires from the brain as if I would use for the starter kill? One to the main relay and the other wire to the ground post? I also going to wire a kill switch with the ground relay and hide it some where else as well just for extra layer of protection. Thanks.

NOT SAFE! The joints might open whilst driving. I will give no advice on this save don't do it!

howie ll wrote: Again I already showed you that.https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/uploads/6DZ_honda.bmp

Question Howard, Would you explain to me why are the 2 diodes needed? Thanks.

Yes, there's a chance shutdown relay feedback spike will fry your alarm-R/S brain otherwise. Read the diode section on this site.