2001 honda civic ex

I'm looking at installing a complete alarm and remote start in my car and I had a couple of questions. 1. I am trying to do this for cheap but reliable. I think I want either an AutoPage C3-RS6652W or a Crimestopper SP-501 any opinions about these? 2. I looked at the forum for my car and its pretty good but I having a hard time understanding how to install the trunk release with the remote. a little clarity would be great. Do I tape directly into these wires? I'm sorry if these are elementary questions but I'm trying to learn. 3. I have read something about controlling your windows and possibly other things from the remote I was wondering what those things are and how useful they are as well how they would work. 3. Any pictures of this process would be amazing. 4. I have an after market stereo will this change anything during the installation process. Thanks for the help guys.

Cheap and reliable is a contradiction that doesn't exist in real life. Cheap will give you more problems than you could ever imagine. (I can, been there done it and ripped them out to supply the genuine article). You mentioned window closers etc. The cheap units won't give you enough aux outputs to control them AND a trunk release. As for trunk release does this vehicle have one already or will you be installing one? Either way you will need a relay and a 1N4004 diode (and more for your door triggers possibly though there's a work around for that, see below). Your stereo should be neither affected or touched although the lower panel around the gear shift is a great place for the LED. One quick tip, remove the instrument cluster, first point look at the space behind, easily enough to mount the alarm ECU there secondly if you have warning lights for doors and trunk open, you can pick up the triggers at the switched neg (-) wires that turn on those lights. Is this a manual transmission? You will need a clutch by-pass as well as the factory immobiliser by-pass. There are loads of posts on this vehicle, 01-05 Civic, look here in the archives, vehicle wiring section or manuals/downloads. Autopage and Crimestopper, of the 2 Autopage appears to be better quality but both suffer from reliability issues. 2 real options but obviously more expensive, Compustar and Audiovox/Prestige.

Howie pretty much covered it. 1. I have not personally used either of these units. I hear that both brands are OK. Do keep one thing in mind: A. Most manufacturers don't/won't provide tech support on their phone lines if you're a do-it-yourselfer. B. The more popular the brand, the more of us on the forum who can help you if you have a problem. So basically, even if you have to pay, say $25 more for a popular brand, the free tech support you'll get here on this site will be worth it. I use Audiovox all the time, and anything from DEI is very popular and pretty much any installer has worked with it before. The Prestige APS997C is a solid unit at a good price, although the 2-way remote is very fragile. 2. Does your existing remote have a trunk button on it? If not, then you'll have to install a trunk-release motor on the inside of the trunk lid. It's basically a cable you attach to the car's trunk mechanism, and the motor "yanks" the cable. Very primitive, crude, and unreliable, but the part is cheap. Basically, what it comes down to is if you're patient enough to keep repositioning and readjusting the thing until you get it working right. 3. I think the most popular window module is the DEI 530T. Each piece does two windows; if your car is a sedan, buy two. Be aware that you have to fish wires into the driver's door. 4. Not sure of where you might find pics besides a Civic forum, but your car is so simple, it's easy to look under the dash without tools.   The panel in front of the driver's knees comes right off by just twisting the two retaining tabs. The black panel above your feet comes off the same way. You'll see there's plenty of room to access the wires going to the ignition switch, you can plainly see the doorlock wires where they pass into the body from the driver's door, you can see the brake pedal switch, and you should even bee able to see the (unused, taped-up with blue tape) light-green factory alarm connector. The downside is that any alarm you install will be easy for the thieves to reach up and unplug. Like Howie said, you could remove the instrument cluster and hide the main brain there, then drop your wires down to where you'll connect them..... but generally, trying to hide stuff will become very time-consuming for a first-timer. Maybe you'll want to try doing a "basic" installation in your girlfriend's car, then try hiding everything in your own car after you've had some experience. 5. Aftermarket stereo shouldn't change anything. Only one thing might be if there are amplifiers or subwoofers installed, you may find that the installer ran all those RCA and speaker wires across the place where you're about to do your work. If so, no big deal---just leave them alone, but make sure to zip-tie them back up when you're done so they won't fall on your feet. P.S. You didn't mention this, but be aware that your car has an anti-theft immobilizer chip in the key. The remote starter won't work all by itself; you'll have to also deal with the Civic's immobilizer. Fortin's HONDA-SL3 is your most cost-effective part, but look around for others. The DEI 556U will save you money, but you'll give up one of your existing keys.

Thanks so much for the help. That really put me in the right directions I've got a couple more questions for the experts though. 1. Ok so I looked into the Prestige APS997C and its not that more expensive and both of you recommended it so I think I am going to go with that. That one will have the required parts to do the windows and the trunk right? When I look it up it says it has a Six Channel Code Learning Programmable Receiver. Does that mean that it can do the 4 doors, the trunk and have one more left? Can I use this for the sunroof or what else can I use this for? 2. How do I remove the instrument cluster that's a great spot for it if I can get that off so I don't take space in my glove compartment. 3. As well, for the windows, and possibly the sunroof, when I use the remote to control to arm the alarm do they always go up or can I chose when I want them to close? 4. My car has a trunk release lever by my seat can I tap into that somehow? There is nothing on my remote that can open the trunk just the key. When is the part called and where can I buy one if I do still need another part. 5. My car is an automatic so I wont need to by pass the clutch. As well buying with the Prestige APS997C I will need to buy 2 window controls will "Install Essentials 530T Window Automation System" work good or would you really recommend the DEI 530T? I know you said that there is not such thing as cheap and reliable but I'd like to save some money where I can. Also, with the immobilizer bypass I have seen people say that they put a key in a hid-a-key and wrap a wire around it and it works just like DEI 556U. Any opinions about that? And the last question is the relay and a 1N4004 diode that is used for the doors you mentioned. I couldn't figure out what that was or what it is used for? I will be looking forward to hearing from you. I am excited to get the ball rolling on this project.

From your questions and lack of knowledge I would respectfully suggest you don't try this on your own, but you're still going to anyway. 6 channels probably means 6 aux. Door locks are taken care of already, 1 channel for trunk release 1 channel for window closers. I will post a diagram for the sunroof assuming that model has two control relays, this method worked on the previous model Civic:- 1) Honda sun roof- 4EE_honda_roof.bmp 2) Trunk/Hatch release- 26A_trunk-pop.bmp Note the diodes you require, 1N4004*, to prevent damage to your unit. The part you require is a "trunk release solenoid". Installation is a PITA as Chris said. Best place is to parallel the mechanical release cable where it enters the lock mechanism. I did that on my last car. Instrument panel removal, remove column cowling or at least top part (you will need to access the ignition switch for the by-pass if required anyway), two screws in cowling, snap-out then 2-4 screws holding the cluster. You can close windows and roof either on arming via The GWA wire or via an aux set to about 15 seconds. The various window closers you mentioned are all the same product. You will also need a 529t for the roof or use my roof close method and two relays. You will have to wire into all 4 doors to get at the motor wires for the 530t's to operate correctly, a right PITA on Hondas. *Radio Shack, etc. etc. Don't attempt to make the bypass yourself run with a 556 or the other unit Chris mentioned. Tools mandatory. Quality tape such as Scotch 33+, solder tools, heatshrink, good quality crimpers, tester e.g. Snap-On 12v+ test light, DMM etc. drills, bits cutters and strippers. Door panel removal tools, Sears, Snap-On, MAC etc. Your competence may be OK but your lack of applied knowledge seriously troubles me. Read the relay and diode sections on this site.

Ok thanks. So what parts of the system do i need to put the 1n4004 on? I looked at the relay section but wasnt sure which one I should be looking at. And these I assume I install in line between each of the parts? Do they act like mini fuses? Also, the setting where I can set the roof and windows on a 15 second timer is that through the part that I will buy for it? As well where is the best place to buy parts like these? Do you think buying them online is ok?

Have a look at the relay and diode sections above. Again from your questions you are in over your head here.

Diodes are NOT fuses they are there as circuit "conditioners" and protection to prevent feedback destroying your alarm-R/S etc.

Ok thanks again. I really think I can do this if i put the time into it but looking on line i found this Audiovox FLCAN Flash Logic Multi-Platform CANbus Enabled Doorlock Interface. It looks like it is a relay that by passes most of the wiring and uses the factory alarm directly with the aftermarket one. Can this be used with all four outputs I am going to be using trunk, 4 windows, sunroof. As well, if I use this would this make it so I can use my old wireless remote to arm the alarm as well as the new one? Tell me if you think this is garbage and a waste of money though. Also, if there is a better brand I should look into that would be great. I might be a newbie at this but my dad knows a lot about this and when I ask him for help I want to not waste his time and know what I need to ask him so I really appreciate the baby steps your taking.

I don't know the answer to this but frankly on a 2001 Civic, ESPECIALLY if it has the white factory alarm plug what you've described is an unnecessary expense and probably less reliable, virtually everything you need is at that factory alarm plug, lock/unlock, door hood and trunk triggers, lights. Your old remote will become redundant. I usually disconnect the factory alarm (no internal sensors) and throw it away, ditto Toyotas.