5901 with comfort closure, acura tl

Let me see if I got this right......

Diode isolate the green lock wire from the 5901 (band faces 5901). Then connect to vehicle behind door panel lock wire (which should be blue\white). Since the comfort closure feature on pulses the green wire when locked, this should be all I need to have the windows roll up after exit and then arm. Correct?

Thanks again to everyone whos willing to help me out. Awesome community!

No that just ensures that you have a ground on the lock and unlock. I just realised that you probably tested it wrong in the first place, red probe to constant 12V+, black to green lock wire, should give you a 12V+ reading whilst the comfort close is working, then try the Viper lock wire on that wire at the lock which you just tested. I also can't help you in any way bar theory, we don't have Accura in Europe, so I've no practical knowledge.

I'm going to be attempting this today with the info\help i've been provided. I just wanted to check to see if this info pulled from another post sounded familiar or made sense.....

"For the TL you have to connect the lock wire of the  5901(green) to the actualy lock wire of the car and the factory arm wire in the drivers door by diode isolating them.  The factory arm wire will test ground when you put the key in the cylinder and turn it to the lock position.  After you do all that  just turn the feature on in the 5901 and your done.  BTW....the comfort closure wont work with the car on."

Also, for making the connections to the car, am I to "cut" the original wire and remove it from the circuit? Or can it be simply "tapped" into with a wire tap???

Thanks again.

The second but I didn't notice you write "wire tap" you wrote solder and insulate didn't you. A wire tap i.e. Scotchlock or IDC will last about 2 weeks in a door especially if it rains. Vibration and corrosion kills wire taps, we aren't even allowed to use them in the UK.

howie ll wrote: The second but I didn't notice you write "wire tap" you wrote solder and insulate didn't you. A wire tap i.e. Scotchlock or IDC will last about 2 weeks in a door especially if it rains. Vibration and corrosion kills wire taps, we aren't even allowed to use them in the UK.

LOL! Fair enough, solder and insulate it is. However, i'm close to just throwing in the towel on this one. What i've got is my bue\white wire in the door panel is my arm wire. Now when I plug the red probe into a constant 12v source and the black to this (blue\white) wire and turn and hold the key, I get 12.2 every time as long as the key is held in the unlock position. Now with the green wire from the 5901, with the red probe still on constant 12v and the black probe onto the 5901 (green wire) and arm the system, I get only 9.9vdc for 20 seconds until it drops out. Connecting the green from the 5901 to the blue\white during the comfort close feature will not even make the actuator budge. If I take the blue\wire directly to ground, the actuator locks and if I disrupt it quickly and reapply...the windows go up. My best guess is that during the feature, the 9.9v I receive from the 5901 (green wire) is not sufficient enough to fire the actuator causing the doors to lock and window up. Perhaps i'm wrong, but I am at a loss.

My apologies, I meant I get 12.2vdc on the blue\wire when the key is held in the LOCK position.

Just might be a faulty lock wire, does it lock the vehicle at all, did it do so before on the original installation?

The locks have always worked prior to and after the install. Does only getting 9.9v from the 5901 during the feature cause the issue? Doesn't the green wire from the 5901 send a ground signal out to the blue\white wire, basically tricking the system to believe that the key is being held in the lock position?

No I meant did the locks work at any time using the Viper before you switched to comfort close?

The viper has no problems controlling the locks. Even with the comfort closure feature turned on, the viper will still lock the doors after arming.