viper 5704 alarm 1st alarm attempt

Hello howie II,      I am back again. I Forgot to ask about thisnlast issue I had since I and the alarm installed. The car does not start from the key. In the beginning it did start from the key once I left the alarm shop. Then this started all at once, not allowing me to start the car from the key, but it will start using the autostart feature on the keypad. (sounds like it bumps the starter, but does not spin it over, like it cuts the power shortly after) the car started to act right and start from the key while the Brain was lowered while doing the trunk and trigger work from earlier posts, but once I tie wrapped everything back and moved the brain of the alarm back up in the dash, it started to do it again (not started from the key, but starting from the keypad). I seems like a loose wire or bad connection or maybe even the starter kill not deactivating) Can you give some advice?Wiseman118

Then check all your connections. If the anti-grind starter cut was acting up you'd have dashboard lights and no starter. I've no idea from 3000++ miles away what's going on without physically looking. With the key do the instrument lights come on but no start? Does the starter turn but doesn't fire up? Does your factory immobiliser light extinguish?

Question 1: when using the key, yes the dashboard lights come on as they should with no start. The starter gets a bump, but immediately stops. Like power is supplied to it, the immediately cut off before it can catch. Question 2: the starter doesn't make a complete turn, it gets a half sec bump or signal then stops on the first attempt to start it with the key. If u try to start it again, the dash, etc lights up (in the ACC ON position), but nothing happens when you turn the ignition back the ON position. Question 3. Factory immobilizer light? I don't have one in my dashboard from the factory? Unless the idiot light has been out behind the dash since I have owned the car? P.s. when i called the alarm place, the guy told me that one of the ignition wires that he hooked up may not have a good connection. I looked yesterday, and everything looks and feels tight, but one connection he had hooked up might be suspicious. It's a RED / black strip wire from the 10pin harness (h3/9) in a butt connector together with a red wire from the 10pin harness (h3/6). These 2 wires are tapped into a large all red wire from my factory harness. Wiseman118

It sounds like a factory immobiliser problem if there's one fitted. Did they install a by-pass when the R/S was installed? I don't know the US market well enough to give you a positive answer here. In Europe, everything up to light (2.5 tonnes) commercials had to have a factory installed immobiliser from 1/1/97. Those two wires would affect the R/S but not affect key starting.

I don't think there is an immbolizer. My car is an 86, but i will check. I don't know if they installed a bypass but I will check with them.Wiseman118

No immobiliser or by-pass needed.

You will want to check the 10 pin large wire plug and make sure it is securely seated in its plug at the viper brain. Sometimes even us pros can pull too much and have the plug offset in the connector. Just make sure its seated firmly and squarely in its home.

Check the ignition connector at the ignition switch. Typically on the older gm cars there is a large flat, or maybe 2 large flat connectors near the base of the column, typically black or gray in color. Make sure those are fully and squarely seated.

Also probe the starter wire (key side) with a DMM and see if it shows 12v while turning the key and holding in the start position. If it does not and the remote starter does the same thing, then you may have multiple 12v sources hooked up and one or more of the car's ignition fuses are blown.

If this is the case, replace the fuse, and inspect for any bare wiring or tape that may have fallen off.

To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*

Hi racerjames76,     Thanks for the input, I will check all of those connections per your post when i get home today. I spoke with the installation place on the phone rosay, and they said it may be a loose neutral wire. Does this sound correct? I looked alarm schematic and the only wire I found that resembled what they said is the (-) Neutral Safety Input (H2/2, BLACK/ white wire on the 24pin connector). He said it may be loose and was connected above the steering column.Wiseman118

Ok, I looked and checked over all the connections, harnesses, On the column and the module. Everything looked ok. There was one borderline loose connection, which was the siren output that I fixed. I checked the voltage on the key side of the starter wire (purple factory harness wire). This wire was cut and had the starter input wire (green) and starter output (violet) from the alarm connected to both of the cut ends of the cut wire the voltage was 12.3ish or so volts while turning the key (so this checked out to be ok) Once I dug a little further, I disconnected the (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT wire (H3/1 - Pink wire) from the car's Column Ignition wire (pink wire also). Once the H3/1 - Pink wire that was tapped into the factory column harness (pink wire) was disconnected, the car "started from the key." but of course the autostart feature would not work. I reversed it back to how it was by plugging the wire back in and the car didn't crank from the key but would crank from the keypad button only. So, I found the problem, but I am stuck and don't where to go from here. Something isn't right, these 2 should connect/splice into each other per my understanding of the schematics, but for some reason they aren't working together......Wiseman118

Hi Howie and racerjames....any thoughts of how to correct this issue?Wiseman118