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odyssey 2011/12 remote start wiring


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kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,783
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Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: July 11, 2012 at 4:05 AM / IP Logged  

I believe you are correct.

While I haven't done a 2011-12 Odyssey, it appears that DEI Tip 1085 might still apply ( with appropriate wire

color changes noted ).  The sliding doors open / closed "status" is input to the upper relay, Pin 85, via the
sliding door pinswitch ( with diode correctly added to vehicles circuit ).  Here is info from Omega on the rear
door pins :

Driver's Rear Door Pin     ORANGE (-)    REAR FUSE BOX 36 PIN CONN, PIN 12

Pass Rear Door Pin        GREEN (-)      REAR FUSE BOX 36 PIN CONN, PIN 11

Hopefully another forum member has done a new Odyssey and can confirm or add to this post.

Also note that the iDatalink bypass will control the sliding doors while the engine is OFF.

Soldering is fun!
basselam 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: July 05, 2012
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: July 11, 2012 at 10:00 PM / IP Logged  
Good stuff, many thanks Kreg!
I have investigated a bit further the default behavior of the sliding doors (also applies to the power tailgate). When the button is pressed on the Honda remote and assuming the car is locked, the corresponding door/tailgate will unlock **then** open. I have also locked myself inside the Odyssey and only hitting the open switch for either the sliding doors or tailgate will just result in a beep.
So... In the remote setup when the Aux button is pressed I am looking to unlock the car and open the sliding door / tailgate, for this purpose do you believe that in addition to connecting the Aux to the sliding door circuitry I can connect all the "Aux" outputs of the remote starter to the "Unlock/Disarm" input of the bypass (protecting all connections to the Unlock/Disarm with diodes)?
Also do you know if there is a "car locked" status somewhere? this would enable me not to send the unlock event if the car is already unlocked!
I have the impression that with my setup (a la DEI Tip 1085) the sliding door / power tailgate operation on the bypass would be redundant! It may even confuse the system system (door gets a signal from the double relay & the bypass)?!
Bassel
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,783
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: July 12, 2012 at 9:06 PM / IP Logged  

Lets make some assumptions.  ( I get confused easily.  odyssey 2011/12 remote start wiring - Page 2 - Last Post -- posted image.    )

1. Vehicle = 2012 Honda Odyssey
2. R/S = Viper 4704V
3. Bypass = ADS AL CA flashed with ADS AL(DL) HA3 Ver 1.11  Guide #9125
4. R/S to bypass in W2W mode

While I have never done it, flashing the ADS AL CA with the DBI AL(DL) HA3 firmware will allow the D2D connection

to the 4704V and eliminate a lot of wires between the two ( all the dashed lines ).  See install guide #9127.  It also
requires the DBI D2D harness not supplied with the ADS AL CA.  Also remember that the bypass install guide does
not show all the necessary wires from the R/S to the vehicle ( Parking Lights, horn and ignition wires come to mind ).

The bypass module does a lot for you but does have some limitations.  It controls the door locks thru Data, so

you don't have to make connections in the drivers door.  It supplies a Tach signal so you don't have to run a wire
into the engine compartment or across to the passenger kick panel.  And while it will allow door lock operation
under remote start it will not allow the sliding door or power liftgate to operate while the engine is running.

In W2W mode, you can select whether the Viper's AUX sliding door output goes to the bypass module or directly

to the vehicle.  The best bet would be to wire up the relays as per Tip 1085, connect them to the correct vehicle
wires ( and vehicle power & ground ) and manually trigger the input with a chassis ground pulse to verify it works.
If it does not function properly or requires an initial unlock/disarm pulse, you can make changes or just go with the
bypass modules control of those items.

Soldering is fun!
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