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2000 sebring convertible top control?


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stephen99 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: July 24, 2012
Posted: July 25, 2012 at 7:54 PM / IP Logged  
OK I had no luck with the top. Connected everything as told. Did not even hear the relay click. Could it be a setting on the alarm? Here what it says for the alarm. So it looks like its all ready set for me.
Validity is the setting being used. Thoughts???
This wire provides 200 mA programmable output whenever the transmitter button(s) controlling Aux 3 is pressed. This output can be programmed to provide the following types of outputs
Validity: Output that sends a signal as long as the transmission is received.
Latched: Output that sends a signal when the Aux channel button is pressed • and continues until the same button is pressed.
Latched, reset with ignition: Similar to the latched output, this type of output • turns On the first time the Aux channel button is pressed, and turns Off the next time the same button is pressed. This type of output additionally stops and resets whenever the ignition is turned On and then Off.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: July 26, 2012 at 3:03 AM / IP Logged  
That wire should be timed or validity with validity it waits about 1-3 seconds before acting.
Now go to back to basics:-
You heard the relay click?
No, then disconnect at 85 and apply a ground to 85.
If it works test that aux lead to 85. Did you diode it?
If you didn't as per instructions in previous picture, you've probably fried the alarm's output stage.
Disconnect the lead at 30 and connect to a 12V source.
Nothing? Make sure it's the motor side. No?
Changeover the leads at 30 and 87a.
Still nothing?
Double check the relay wiring.
N.B. If you've done this at thy switch end, start again and do it at the motor end
Schematic:- chrysler_roof.bmp
This is a generic flow path of what happens.
First question..How many wires at the motor?
There might also be some safety interlocks, parking brake on? Doors closed?
N.B. As I said before, if the roof has closing clamps non of this will work.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: July 26, 2012 at 3:21 AM / IP Logged  
By the way, you didn't read the install guide properly.
Page 12 section 12
Aux 2 validity.
latched,latched with ignition, TIMED, either 30, 60 or 90 seconds, time your roof to go up and add 2 seconds then select the nearest time above.
You will also need a DEI 451 lock module to operate the locks on your vehicle they are a POS (+) trigger.
stephen99 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: July 24, 2012
Posted: July 26, 2012 at 1:15 PM / IP Logged  
It works!!! Seems that I only put one diode in...not two. Would like to thank you guys for all the help! Almost finished! Got the window roll up mods in, remote start is almost done, trunk release done, Now if I can figure out a way to lock my wife in there so she cant get out that would top it all off!!!
Thanks again!!!
Steve
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: July 26, 2012 at 1:30 PM / IP Logged  
Great! Can't over estimate the importance of those 1cent bits.
My ex-wife once said that if won the lottery would I cut her in?
I said no I could have her sleep with the fish for less money.
stephen99 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: July 24, 2012
Posted: July 26, 2012 at 1:46 PM / IP Logged  
OK got one more for you experts. Installed the window roll up mods. Drivers side front and rear and pass rear work fine. The pass window goes down fine, but it stops about a couple inches going up and I ahve to hit the switch a few times for it to completely close??? Any ideas??? Hoping I do not have to run a wire from the pass to the drivers side!! Thoughts???
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: July 26, 2012 at 3:11 PM / IP Logged  
What closers and are they close only?
stephen99 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: July 24, 2012
Posted: July 26, 2012 at 3:37 PM / IP Logged  
here is a link. Its the autopage AC-78. They go up, down and crack. http://www.autopageusa.com/t_inside.cfm?action=products&catid=1005&prodID=33c4cf96-33d2-4685-8f2f-7d1992e255e2
Really dont understand what happened They have thick wires that go to the motor and thin that go to the switch. So I know they are all correct. Rechecked the wire plugs and the connections. I soldered everything. Thanks again!!!
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: July 26, 2012 at 4:06 PM / IP Logged  
Run the 4 wire to each pair of motor wires between the door switch and the motor.
The "bad" window, spray the channels with non-silicon lubricant or WD-40 at a pinch, motor it up and down a few times till it eases off.
I never did these on older cars unless the owner was prepared to have the windows adjusted.
Or, loosen all the bolts holding the motor and regulator until it runs smoothly then tighten up.
stephen99 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: July 24, 2012
Posted: July 26, 2012 at 5:17 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks I will give it a try tomorrow. Way too hot today and Tstorms are coming. Plus I am totally exhausted! I loved doing this when I was younger and was employed by Circuit City as an installer many years ago. Shame I cant remember anything!!!
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