2012 odyssey, remote start, d2d vs w2w

Wow, so everytime a battery goes dead or is disconnected, the owner of a system with an FLCAN or idatalink module has to return to their installer to have the bypass module reset?

My paycheck depends on it. I literally do 5-10 a week just resetting the bypasses. SOME cars will auto relearn the data if you start with the key the first time after reconnecting the battery.To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*

I tweaked my back playing basketball last Saturday morning, so I haven't been in any condition to squirrel around under the dash.  I hope to feel good enough to go at it again this weekend.  The project is not dead and, thankfully, I still have a month or two until R/S is need, even here in Minnesota.

racerjames76 wrote: A reset is required every time power is disconnected. Simply flash the FLCAN to Other at the first step and select hard wired method. You won't have any issues. The selection process is for DBI communication, so the FLCAN knows what signals will be coming in.

This is completely untrue.

racerjames76 wrote: My paycheck depends on it. I literally do 5-10 a week just resetting the bypasses. SOME cars will auto relearn the data if you start with the key the first time after reconnecting the battery.

What cars are you doing this on? What bypassed are you using? 10 of your customers cars per week are having their batteries disconnected/ go dead? Seems implausible.

I am using FlashLogic FLCAN flashed for each vehicle with the most current firmware. Everything I have stated is a fact.. We do most of the repairs for around 6 high volume stores in my area. The bypasses are computers. They need a reboot more often than not. Can't tell you how many GM cars come in with the data tach signal dropped due to scan tool avoidance. I stopped using data tachs and went back to running them to the engine. These things work well if you don't expect them to work 100% I still recommend them all the time but warn the installer to be prepared to rewire the entire system the hard way if it doesn't work. Back when FlashLogic started NONE of their interfaces would correctly operate the data brake status. It would fail within the first few starts and leave us puzzled as to why the car wouldn't shut off. I went a year hard wiring the brake wires, until I decided that I should try the data signal again, and it had been fixed. I have used the data brake signal for the last 2 years with 0 problems, so I would say they have fixed whatever that issue was. Problem is I get paid flat rate and if a car comes back within 30 days I do not get paid for fixing it, even if the issue is not my fault. I live in Ohio, and with the extreme heat and cold we have here many people don't realize how hard that is on their batteries. A 5 year battery is lucky to make it past 3.5-4 years here, on top of the fact noone knows maintenance free, actually requires SOME maintenance. We also work on several out of state cars where they are in the Air Force, and move here. Bringing problems from another chain store, or even our chain to me. Often because they lived in a moderate climate and had a really old battery or neglected to ever open their hood and see the mountain of sulfur/acid on their battery terminals. Rant over, sorry for the thread jack To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*

Well, I had quite a bit of success last night.  I am not exactly sure why or how, but the system ultimately settled down to the point where I was able to program the remotes. I was then able to carry out the tach learn and the vehicle remote started. 

There still are some quirky things happening and it all probably relates to how the remote/system is programmed.  First, the rear power lift gate does not go up or down with the designated button on the remote (either remote).  Second, if I push the unlock button once, only the driver's door unlocks (so far so good), but when I push it again (supposedly progressive unlock should work), all of the doors unlock and the pass. power slider opens (very interesting).  I need to spend more time with the manual now that system is generally working.

In general, I am not sure I even want to keep the alarm/security portion of the system active, but maybe I just need to get used to it.  I know my wife will have a very, very low tolerance for an unexpected alarm.  Right now, I have the siren disconnected, so as I learn the system, I don't have to live with the noise.  I can always tell when the alarm is going off, because the lights flashing and you can hear the clicking of the relay.  Is it likely that there is (are) one or two wires that if disconnected would disable the entire alarm portion of the system?

Thanks again for everyones help, especially, Kreg357.