2012 odyssey, remote start, d2d vs w2w

Sorry, can't find any install guide for your system to help with the shock sensor.  Still

hoping for another forum member familiar with AutoStart to assist.

If I remember correctly, you have to lift the release lever on the connector.  That allows

the connector to be removed from its plug.  Then you must squeeze the top portion at the sides to release the clips that hold it to the connector and expose the wires.  Of course it is best to have the battery disconnected first.  According to the wiring source listed above, it is a plain Light Blue wire.

Not sure with the heated seats.  Try this test.  With the engine running, turn on the heated

seats.  Turn off the engine and remove the key.  Open and close the drivers door.  Press Lockon the Factory FOB.  Wait 20 seconds.  Press Unlock, open and close door, start van with key.Are the heated seats on?  If yes, it will be the same as the Heat & A/C.  If you leave themset before you exit the car, the remote start will get everything going where it was at shutdown.  If the heated seat are off at the end of the test, then you will need a way to turn them on after a remote start.  That might be difficult on your van due to this AudioVox info :

 Heated Driver Seat    CANBUS  

 Heated Passenger Seat    CANBUS

Soldering is fun!

First frustration: I tried again to get into the fuse panel, but was unsucessful.  As I suggested in a previous post, there is a connector at the headlight switch (pink wire) labeled on the DEI printout as 'AutoLights'.  It also says after the color designation, 'ground to turn off autolights'.  Could this be used in lieu of the driver's door trigger.

Second frustration: I went to hook up the chasis ground, which is a  common ground for the brain (black), FLCAN and the siren.  When I touched it to the gournd, the reminder chime started chiming and the headlight warning light comes on. Once it got dark, I also noticed that the dash lights also came on when I connected the ground. Both of the power fuses are pulled, so nothing should be getting power. This happens with the driver door open, but when I closed the door and touched the ground, there was no effect.  This seems odd and not right, but may only happen until the unit is powered up.  Any thoughts?

Thanks.

I would try to find that Light Blue drivers door trigger wire.  It is not a major issue if you always leave the Headlight switch in OFF when you exit the van ( or never remote start and remote stop the van at night ).

The weird happenings might be from the FLCAN.  I believe they will stop as soon as you program it to the vehicle.  Something like that happens on Chrysler CAN vehicles, too.

Soldering is fun!

Thanks for the reassurance on the chiming.  I will know tonight, because I will have the FLCAN flashed, programmed for W2W and ready-to-go. 

I will also look at the fuse box one more time.  Since we are not used to having the auto setting for the lights, I think it will be rare that we use them, even rarer when we happen to use them and then remote start, even rarer that we would use them, remote start and it is at night, and, almost inconceivable that we do all of that, let the remote start expire and not get to the car before the battery is dead.

Thanks again for all of your help.  I hope to report later tonight or tomorrow that something actually works!

If you have the flash logic piece plugged in before there is both power and ground presentall sorts of wierd things can happen. Unplug the flashlogic piece, attach power/ground then plug the flash logic piece in. Stupid computers! lolTo master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*

Thanks to all for your comments.  I did get past the chiming problem when I flashed and connected power to the brain/FLCAN. 

However, I did run into a few problems.  First, the flashing went smoothly.  It did ask during the flashing if I would be using D2D or W2W and I selected W2W.  When the flashing was complete, it still appeared to drop into the 'installation mode selection' and the unit was only flashing once, indicating, I think, that it was in D2D (even tho I had selected W2W before the flash).  Therefore, I pushed the button once and it changed to two flashes.  I then pushed and held the button again, supposedly then set for W2W and it went to solid green.  I then did the module programing, but it came out of that with a red flashing light. Then I had to run and drop off my son somewhere and I did not want to leave it all powered up, so I pulled the fuses.

When I came back to the project and reinserted the fuses, the unit was not flashing, no lights, so I, probably errantly, assumed the unit was now 'good to go'.  I then tried to program the remotes using the AS instructions, but I could not get them to program.  I could always get the AS brain into the programing mode, but it never reacted as the instruction said it would to the remotes.  I also could not get the AS brain to do a master reset by turning the ignition on then off and then pumping the brakes 6 times. The antenna LED was flashing at various intervals during my attempts to program and flashed in conjunction with the door opening and closing.

I plan to start over tonight by resetting the FLCAN (do I need to reflash after resetting?), redo the installation mode selection, then redo the module programming procedure and make sure I get a solid green that then goes out.  I will then proceed with remote learning.

Follow the FLCAN Install guide for a Factory Reset, bottom of Page 8.  You do not need to re-flash the module but must select "Standard" mode

( 2 blinks ) and then program to the vehicle. 

You should be able to program the FLCAN bypass to the vehicle first, before the AutoStart is completely programmed.  Sorry, can't help with the

AutoStart, but after you get the remotes programmed, the locks should work.  Do the Tach Learn process before attempting a remote start.

Soldering is fun!

Welcome to the wonderful world of computer interfaces! lol Save those reset instructions, you will likely need them to reprogram if your battery ever goes dead in the future.To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*

I tried again last night with no luck.  I went thru a couple of different iterations, including reflashing the FLCAN with HA3 at least once.  It is not clear to me when flashing the FLCAN what difference it makes when it asks what type of system is being installed: R/S only, R/S and security combo, Keyless?  I am installing a R/S security combo, so I always select that option.  It then asks which brand and model unit I am using and I there was a limited selection of AS for both USA and Canada.   One of the options for AS is 'system not listed'. There was no model on list in either USA or Canada that exactly matched mine, so I have tried very similar model numbers and 'not listed'. Does the model number selected here have any bearing on whether the system works?

Anyway after reflashing and setting the installation mode and programming the module, all of the lights and sequences went smoothly and exactly as layed out in the FLCAN instructions.  I am quite confident that there is no issue with the FLCAN.

Then it was on, again, to learning the remotes.  I am able to consistently get the AS system into the programming mode, but that is about it. I tried learing both remotes about 20-times and neither was ever "learned".  The only small sucess I ever had while in the programming mode was once I was able to do a master reset of the brain by depressing the brake pedal 6-times.  That time the parking lights flashed 8-times indicating that it had received the instructions.  However, I probably tried another ten times to duplicate the master reset procedure and never got it to work again.  I must be missing something in my understanding of entering the programming mode. Small successes probably pointing to the fact that the FLCAN is working properly: 1) the system recognizes the hood pin (you must pop the hood to enter the programming mode), and   2) the system recognizes the door pin (the antenna LED flashes when the door in opened or closed).

If I had had success with consistently getting the master reset of the unit to work I would be focusing on neither of the remotes working or the antenna not working or something like that. But the master reset is very simple and is not dependent on the remotes/antenna.  Since I only got that to work once, I must be doing something else wrong.

We have a shop nearby that installs AS.  I will probably stop by and offer someone an Andrew Jackson to help me with the programming or help to determine if something else is amiss.

This vehicle is my wife's regular driver.  Each time when I am done trying, I pull the fuses and power down the brain, because I don't want her heading out with a car that isn't fully programmed and tested.  She would not like it if the alarm started going off for some unknown reason.  So, when I plug the fuses back in, do I need to reset the install mode and reprogram the FLCAN or will that info hold between power downs?

A reset is required every time power is disconnected. Simply flash the FLCAN to Other at the first step and select hard wired method. You won't have any issues. The selection process is for DBI communication, so the FLCAN knows what signals will be coming in.To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*