so lost with door triggers

Ive posted about this before and everytime i think ive got it fixed i keep getting false door triggers. So this time i think i found my solution. Im gonna fallow diagram A on this page https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/uploads/Tech_Tips_1076_Door_Trigger_Isolation.pdf My question is if i take the positive door trigger wire from the alarm and put it in 30, can i take the blk/blue dome light wire in the passenger kick panel and connect it to 85 without having to diode isolate?

Obviously a Ford you are talking about, tell us which one...Mike M2

Tech Manager

CS Dealer Services

what is the year, make and model of your vehicle? you only need the diodes to isolate when each door has its own trigger wire. if there is only 1 trigger wire than it is fine to not use any diodes.This information is provided only as a reference.

All circuits should be verified with a digital multi-meter prior to making any connections.

My thoughts as above but a 1076 applies to Fords with a sleep circuit, 98 on in the UK. It simply uses the diodes to first block "spikes" on wake-up from the GEM then isolating diodes to bring the door triggers together. Note: don't the latest Fords have NC door triggers in which case 1076 doesn't apply, use a DTI Mazda etc. Also why a relay? Only needed for dome supervision, there again that OP was extremely vague, why I didn't answer this last night.

Sorry guys im so frustrated over this that i left out alot. Its a 2003 ford f150 supercrew, ive already tried the standard diode isolate from diagram b on 1076 and that has failed me, which is why i want to try my suggestion above or know if its even gonna work.

This works on the post 05 European Focus. Use the violet (+) trigger from the domelight control blue/black. You might have to knock out the door chirps if there's a delay after locking the vehicle via your remote.