2007 Nissan Pathfinder, Fiberglass Projects

well i wanted it centered, flush, and it was the best height for the view angle. Also tying make it look like a factory fit, well after i put the plate over it, lol.The best tool in my work shop, is my BRAIN!!!!

OK so I wasn't very happy with the JL Audio C3-650's..... So purchased the JL ZR650 front the fronts :) Started redoing the front doors cause I also bought JL6W3v3 for the door subs. The first pods don't flow with the door, so the extra 6"sub should work better. Need to make a enclosure for the 6" sub that 0.16 cu ft (will probably need to cut away the bottom of the door panel..... and i was so looking to save the cup holder in the door :( New rings for the ZR's, I round the top to get a better shape on the FGing. Still need to drill the 8 holes and add T-nuts to the rings The best tool in my work shop, is my BRAIN!!!!

Also started on the amp rack above the rear driver side tire well. With the limited space I changed the amps from the Slash 500/1 and 300/4 to JL Audio HD1200/1 and HD600/4 The best tool in my work shop, is my BRAIN!!!!

hey man, this is kind of off topic but relevant at the same time. this is a problem with my doors that i just fixed and you should be experiencing the same problem considering that our doors are the same. i have 7" diamond audio mids and you will be using 6" subs in your doors. there is a rattle on the door that i just finally tracked down a few weeks ago and fixed and its probably the last this youd expect to rattle. the rubber trim that goes around the door glass on the top of the door frame will rattle against the rubber on the body side. it takes a considerable amount of bass and vibration to make this happen but when it does its really annoying and very audible even when the music is up. for the longest time i just chalked it up to my tweeter pods or some piece of plastic on the door but everything i tried didnt stop the noise. my doors are deadened very well. if you havent noticed this yet and hearing this makes you notice it then im sorry but i also have the fix. just pull back the rubber trim to expose the pinch-weld around the upper door frame and use some sticky-backed foam in between the rubber and metal, this will put enough tension on the rubber so that it doesnt rattle. also when the door is open, you see that plastic panel that runs against the side of the dash and is held on by a few snaps, this panel also rattles with the door speakers, put some light foam behind this panel too. i hope your new components sound as good as you think they will, ive never been a fan of JL speakers, although ive never heard a set of ZR's, im sure they sound pretty nice when properly installed. they come in a nice box, my diamond D9's came in a wooden chest and the crossovers are probably 3X the size of those JL's. honestly, any speakers that come in a special box should sound awesome, even though i think you used the flash on your phone to make them look nice and sparkly im about to start my FG box build for an RE XXX 12 in my frontier, my glass and kevlar came in the other day and im just waiting on some money to order the XXX and a crossfire BMF1700, dont let the number fool you though, at 14 volts its a 2300 watt amp. the box will be a beast i promise and pics will be coming. im also planning to re-make all of my upper pillars in pure carbon fiber and possibly my center console too, i just need to have some mold making practice and its on like donkey kong. sucks you had to re-do your doors but i thought that you made a critical mistake of letting the edges of your cut show through in your glass work. i guess it was inevitabe because you only made a small part of your door with glass so its harder to make glass work blend in with a factory door panel, i think by making the whole bottom into a box for your JL 6" subs you can avoid having to make them blend and just show them off as a custom add-on. should be nice...

OK all work on the car has come to a HALT. Trans issue on the pathfinder along with the radiator :( in the hole for $5k now.The best tool in my work shop, is my BRAIN!!!!

damn, what happened with your transmission? do you know? i think the transmission has a line that goes to the radiator that cools the transmission fluid, maybe the radiator malfunctioned and caused the trans to overheat.

got the pathfinder back $5500.00 later...... Sound it was the exact problem you said, known problem with Nissan.... but its all fixed and back to work on the car again :) Question: any one have a idea on how to bolt the door panel to the doors, with the subs in the panel i don't think the plastic snaps are going to hold very well.The best tool in my work shop, is my BRAIN!!!!

Damn dude that's a b that you had to put a new tranny in. I just put a new motor and turbo in my Mazda...7 G's later...It hurts...but it was worth it. I have been brainstorming ways to go about bolting the door panel to the door in my Magnum. I believe i'll be making a tunnel between the speaker baffle and the sheet metal with flanges that I can screw into the baffle and the sheet metal. I will also be filling the holes in the door to make a mostly sealed enclosure for the Anarchy's. I will also use some threaded rivets to convert the holes for the plastic pins to bolt holes.Dodge Magnum in progress:

Pioneer DEH-80PRS - PPI Amps - Dayton Subwoofer(s) - Exodus Anarchy's - Vifa Tweeters - Kinetik Battery

new Transmission and New Radiator. Transmission cooler breaks inside the radiator and allows coolant in the transmission fluid. Everyone of those trucks does it. Put on an external cooler and dont use the radiator cooler for the transmission.

Krush, you can easily find some different snaps to use on the door panel, might take a little trial and error to find the right ones though. also i dont know if you have seen or done this already but to get yourself some extra clearance around the factory speaker location you can trim down the plastic grid lines that raise up 1/4 inch or more from the main door panel. i had to trim those completely out to give myself enough room for my 7" diamond mids to move freely without hitting the door panel. you should use a blade thats kind of flexible so that you can get all the way to the base of the grid lines without cutting into the panel itself. that alone could give you the clearance that you need for the panel to snap back on.