ignition kill relay on alarm not working

And there should be no doubt in your mind which wire is the 12v constant vs ignition vs starter. Always test your wires to verify everything. Don't just go solely by the diagrams / charts.Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

offroadzj wrote: You shouldn't use the ignition as the immobilizer. If something ever happened and the alarm failed armed it would cut your engine off... and if you are traveling down the highway, that could become a very bad situation. ALWAYS use the starter wire as the immobilizer. I would disconnect the relay from your ignition wire, solder the ignition wire back together along with the ignition input to the alarm, then re-install the relay onto your starter wire.

thanks. I'm going to do that....solder the ignition wire back together, then, use the ignition for the relays switched 12v, and use the starter wire for the immobiliser. thanks

If I remember right, most of the info on that referral is correct. Ignition = black Starter = BLACK/ blue Indicators blue and blue/red, either at the steering column or right hand kick well. Dome or courtesy or interior light light trigger is in the left hand "A" pillar or kick panel. Lock and unlock wires require two relays but I won't explain that until you tell us what alarm and whether it has a 2 wire or a 6 wire lock unlock system.

right......I had it wired like this: The starter wire (BLACK/ Blue) was used for the immobiliser, so they were wired to 87 and 30 on the relay, and the alarm trigger was wired to 85, and the 86 was wired to ignition. So all correct. But it still doesn't work. I checked the relay with a probe, It works fine when power is put through it - from either 85 or 86. When I connect it to the relay plug that's wired to the above ^^ wires, when I put power through 85 the relay doesn't switch, when I put power through 86 It turns the ignition on. So why then, when I turn the key does the relay not switch & when the alarm is in "arm" why won't the relay switch when I turn the key, as it will still start?

Couldn't you read the diagram or didn't you even look? Armed out from alarm to 85. Ignition BLACK to 86 with diode 1N4004 between 85 and 86, band to 86 Key side to 87a. Starter side to 30. 87 NOT USED. Now it's down to you.

howie ll wrote: Couldn't you read the diagram or didn't you even look? Armed out from alarm to 85. Ignition BLACK to 86 with diode 1N4004 between 85 and 86, band to 86 Key side to 87a. Starter side to 30. 87 NOT USED. Now it's down to you.

I printed out the diagram actually, I didn't realise that it made a difference which side 87a and 30 went to. Could that be the problem I they are the wrong way around? The plug that goes into the relay was sent with the alarm, the thing in the middle of 85 and 86 looks more like a resistor that a diode. It has colour bands around it - which makes me think resistor...

No, unless you're installing a remote start but you wrote 87 and that's wrong, it's 87a and 30. By convention 87a is the key side and 30 the output or in this case motor side, it helps to stick with the conventions, then problems can be more easily solved. The resistor is sometimes used instead of a diode, not polarity conscious but less efficient, sounds like the alarm the make of which you still haven't mentioned is a right POS.

It's only a 4 pin relay so there's no 87, only 87a. The alarm is a Cyclone 916D5A-15A.

Don't carry on, it probably won't even work, another unknown brand Chinese POS. The relay is the give-away.

It's all installed already, the 2 stage shock detection works, the ultrasonics work, the remote central locking works, car finding works and so does panic feature. Not bad really.