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2006 town & country, remote starter


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aznmax2k 
Member - Posts: 18
Member spacespace
Joined: December 29, 2009
Location: Idaho, United States
Posted: September 24, 2012 at 10:59 PM / IP Logged  
Hi all. I have a problem with remote starter on T&C 2006. I don't know what I did wrong or I miss something. The remote start and run for 5 second then shutdown and keep doing it. But if start with the key or drive to to someplace for awhile then I can start it just fine or comeback 3 or 4 hrs later then start it'll start rite away and stay. But not more then 6 or 7 hrs. My setup on this one was CM6200 w blade al & RF-2W9000 do the bypass in type 2 like datalink recommend. Did connect brake and parking light from the control unit and those working just fine. The only one thing I'm confuse about the second starter most the website or in here said I need to install the second starter with relay and resistor but in datalink instruction didn't said that only type 5 use that relay. But I still go with the most recommend and the problem I only have is above like I state. Any suggestion would be appreciated.
Thanks all.
kreg357 
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Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: September 25, 2012 at 5:20 AM / IP Logged  
Did you use a relay & 180 Ohm resistor connected to the T&C's PURPLE / Brown MUX wire?  According to the ADS AL(DL) CH6 install guide, it handles the Starter MUX control thru Data.  Disconnect that wire going to the PURPLE / Brown MUX wire and see what happens.  For the ignition circuits, all you should need from the CM6200 is an Ignition connection to the Pink/White wire and a Starter connection to the Yellow wire.  ( There is no Accessory wire. )
Soldering is fun!
offroadzj 
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Posted: September 25, 2012 at 5:46 AM / IP Logged  
It sounds like its either the 2nd starter wire (what kreg mentioned) or a bad tach signal learn. Did you connect the tach wire? Try relearning the tach and see if that helps. If not relearn the tach again, but with your foot just barely on the pedal (just bring the rpms up a little bit). That way it will learn a slightly higher tach rate which may help with cold starting.
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205
aznmax2k 
Member - Posts: 18
Member spacespace
Joined: December 29, 2009
Location: Idaho, United States
Posted: September 25, 2012 at 10:11 AM / IP Logged  
Yes I. Did use a relay & 180 ohm resistor and a diode too. OK I'll try to disconnect that and see what happen then. Oh I use tach less on this one. If I want to use tach then which wire should I connec then. Thanks
tommy... 
Gold - Posts: 1,901
Gold spacespace
Joined: December 10, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: September 25, 2012 at 10:34 AM / IP Logged  
https://directechs.com/tech_docs/Document10582-3.pdf
2006 Chrysler Town & Country     DirectWire 2.0 Vehicle Information
Remote Start
Item     Wire Color     Polarity     Wire Location
12 Volts     lt. blue/red (10A)     +     ignition harness
Second 12 Volts   
Starter     yellow     +     ignition harness
Second Starter     PURPLE / brown     -     ignition harness
The second starter wire is negative trigger thru a 180 ohm resistor. MUST use a relay. Refer to Tech Doc 1083 for wiring information.
Ignition     pink/white     +     ignition harness
Second Ignition     N/A
Third Ignition     N/A
Accessory     NOT required for remote start
Second Accessory     N/A
Third Accessory   
Keysense     N/A
Data Bus   
Can Bus High   
Can Bus Low   
Can Bus Sw   
Power Lock     PURPLE / dk. green     -     BCM, white plug, pin 21
Lock is negative trigger thru a 5.3K ohm resistor. Unlock is negative trigger thru a 2.0K ohm resistor. MUST use relays. The BCM (Body Control Module) is in the driver kick panel near the parking brake. It has 5 plugs in it, one 6 pin plug and four 34 pin plugs. Can also use Directed interface modules.
Power Unlock     same as power lock wire
Lock Motor     tan/white     5wi     BCM, green plug, pin 10
The BCM (Body Control Module) is in the driver kick panel near the parking brake. It has 5 plugs in it, one 6 pin plug and four 34 pin plugs.
Driver Unlock Motor     tan/lt. green     5wi     BCM, green plug, pin 28
The BCM (Body Control Module) is in the driver kick panel near the parking brake. It has 5 plugs in it, one 6 pin plug and four 34 pin plugs.
Parking Lights (-)     WHITE/ brown     -     switch or BCM, gray plug, pin 21
The parking lights are negative trigger thru a 2.1K ohm resistor. There is a rest resistance on the wire, so MUST use a relay to isolate away from the switch. See Tech Doc 1082 for wiring information. The BCM (Body Control Module) is in the driver kick panel near the parking brake. It has 5 plugs in it, one 6 pin plug and four 34 pin plugs.
Parking Lights (+)     WHITE/ brn (L), WHITE/ org (R)     +     driver kick, harness to rear
Hazards     WHITE/ dk. blue     -     switch or BCM, gray plug, pin 31
The BCM (Body Control Module) is in the driver kick panel near the parking brake. It has 5 plugs in it, one 6 pin plug and four 34 pin plugs.
Turn Signal (Left)     wht/lt blu (F), wht/dk grn (R)     +     BCM, green plug, pins 1, 2
The BCM (Body Control Module) is in the driver kick panel near the parking brake. It has 5 plugs in it, one 6 pin plug and four 34 pin plugs.
Turn Signal (Right)     WHITE/ tan (F), WHITE/ brown (R)     +     BCM, green plug, pins 3, 4
The BCM (Body Control Module) is in the driver kick panel near the parking brake. It has 5 plugs in it, one 6 pin plug and four 34 pin plugs.
Headlight     WHITE/ brown     -     switch or BCM, gray plug, pin 21
The headlights are negative trigger thru a 790 ohm resistor. There is a rest resistance on the wire, so MUST use a relay to isolate away from the switch. See DirectFax document 1082 for wiring information. The BCM (Body Control Module) is in the driver kick panel near the parking brake. It has 5 plugs in it, one 6 pin plug and four 34 pin plugs.
AutoLights   
Reverse Light     WHITE/ lt. green     +     BCM, green plug, pin 9
The BCM (Body Control Module) is in the driver kick panel near the parking brake. It has 5 plugs in it, one 6 pin plug and four 34 pin plugs.
Left Front Door Trigger     see notes     -     BCM, white plug
The driver door trigger is purple in pin 6, the passenger door is PURPLE / white in pin 7, the left sliding door is PURPLE / gray in pin 8, and the right sliding door is purple / YELLOW in pin 5. Use all four wires and diode isolate each. Also have to diode isolate from the BCM. Refer to Tech Doc 1076 for wiring information. The BCM (Body Control Module) is in the driver kick panel near the parking brake. It has 5 plugs in it, one 6 pin plug and four 34 pin plugs.
Right Front Door Trigger   
Left Rear Door Trigger   
Right Rear Door Trigger   
Dome Supervision     yellow/brown or yellow/white     +     BCM, white plug, pin 33
The BCM (Body Control Module) is in the driver kick panel near the parking brake. It has 5 plugs in it, one 6 pin plug and four 34 pin plugs.
Trunk/Hatch Pin     PURPLE / orange     -     BCM, white plug, pin 29
A diode must be placed inline on this wire to avoid problems with the dome lights and parking lights. The BCM (Body Control Module) is in the driver kick panel near the parking brake. It has 5 plugs in it, one 6 pin plug and four 34 pin plugs.
Rear Glass Pin   
Hood Pin     PURPLE / lt. blue (export only)     -     BCM, white plug, pin 30
The BCM (Body Control Module) is in the driver kick panel near the parking brake. It has 5 plugs in it, one 6 pin plug and four 34 pin plugs.
Trunk/Hatch Release     PURPLE / tan     -     BCM, green plug, pin 6
Hatch release is negative trigger thru a 1.69K or 4.7K ohm resistor. MUST use a relay. The BCM (Body Control Module) is in the driver kick panel near the parking brake. It has 5 plugs in it, one 6 pin plug and four 34 pin plugs.
Trunk Release Motor   
Fuel Door Release   
Power Sliding Door (Left)     PURPLE / dk. blue     -     BCM, white plug, pin 1
Left power sliding door is negative trigger thru a 1.5K ohm resistor. Right power sliding door is negative trigger thru a 2.7K ohm resistor. MUST use relays. The BCM (Body Control Module) is in the driver kick panel near the parking brake. It has 5 plugs in it, one 6 pin plug and four 34 pin plugs.
Power Sliding Door (Right)   
Factory Alarm Arm     arms on lock with door open
Factory Alarm Disarm     factory remote only
Disarm No Unlock     with ignition and Sentry Key
Trunk Alarm Shunt   
Tachometer     NOT BROWN / white     ac     ign. coil pack or any fuel injector
Wait to Start     N/A
Neutral Safety   
Clutch Pedal   
Fuel Pump   
Rear Defroster     dk. blue/white     + latched     driver kick, harness to rear
Mirror Defroster     same as rear defroster
Left Front Heated Seat   
Right Front Heated Seat   
Speed Sense     dk. GREEN/ brown     ac     PCM, BLACK/ green plug, pin 32
The PCM (Powertrain Control Module) is behind the driver side headlight.
Brake Wire     WHITE/ tan     +     brake pedal switch
Parking Brake     dk. GREEN / WHITE     -     parking brake switch
Horn Trigger     dk. GREEN/ purple     -     horn switch
Wipers     BROWN / wht (L), BROWN / org (H)     +     windshield wiper motor
Memory Seat 1     PURPLE / brown     -     BCM, green plug, pin 24
Memory seat 1 is negative trigger thru a 6.8K ohm resistor. Memory seat 2 is negative trigger thru a 2.1K ohm resistor. MUST use relays. The BCM (Body Control Module) is in the driver kick panel near the parking brake. It has 5 plugs in it, one 6 pin plug and four 34 pin plugs.
Memory Seat 2     same as memory seat 1 wire
Memory Seat 3     N/A
M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!
offroadzj 
Gold - Posts: 2,041
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Joined: June 03, 2005
Location: New York, United States
Posted: September 25, 2012 at 11:09 AM / IP Logged  
It sounds to me like you need to connect the tach wire.
Tachometer     NOT BROWN / white     ac     ign. coil pack or any fuel injector
That should fix your problem. It sounds like when trying to start cold, it isn't cranking long enough to get the car running. Tach is always the best way to connect it.
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205
kreg357 
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Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: September 25, 2012 at 1:04 PM / IP Logged  

The ADS Blade AL with Blade AL(DL) CH6 firmware should supply a good tach signal.  It uses an internal connection between the Blade and the CM6200

with data it pulls off the J1850 Data wire.  The CM6200 comes defaulted for Tach Mode operation ( 2-10 Opt 1 ).  All you should have to do after the Blade is
successfully programmed to the van is the Tach Learn Process.

STEP 1: Start the vehicle with the key. Allow time for the engine to idle down.

( Step 2 not necessary with Blade AL module supplying the Tach signal. )

STEP 2: Test wire and make connection. At idle the tach wire should test between 1 to 4 Volts AC. As the
vehicle RPM’s increase the voltage on the meter will also increase. Always solder tach connections.

STEP 3: Learn tach. While the vehicle is at idle, hold the foot brake and activate the remote start function

on the remote control for 2.5 seconds. The parking lights will flash once and the siren will chirp once to
confirm a good tach signal. The parking lights will flash two times and the siren will chirp two times to
indicate the tach did not learn. Two seconds following the two flashes, the number of parking light flashes
will indicate the cause of the error.

If Step 3 does not give the one flash learned signal, then try an external Tach source as listed above previously.

Soldering is fun!
offroadzj 
Gold - Posts: 2,041
Gold spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: June 03, 2005
Location: New York, United States
Posted: September 25, 2012 at 1:19 PM / IP Logged  
Ahh... I missed the part about the blade-al. Kreg is correct, it should supply the tach signal and all you have to do is make sure your programming is set for tach sensing then program the tach signal.
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205
aznmax2k 
Member - Posts: 18
Member spacespace
Joined: December 29, 2009
Location: Idaho, United States
Posted: September 26, 2012 at 11:30 PM / IP Logged  
Sorry to respond late. I did remove the starter 2 and test I can start without the relay hookup. And tried to learn tach like kreg said but not successful the parking light flash twice thats mean not learn. So I just go back and try on tactless mode and it still work but after 4 or 5 hrs passed. I tried again the starter not work.I think I have to go with the tach wire then. I'll post that up later. Try to rest now since still got sick.
Thanks all.
offroadzj 
Gold - Posts: 2,041
Gold spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: June 03, 2005
Location: New York, United States
Posted: September 27, 2012 at 6:08 AM / IP Logged  
Did you check the programming to make sure you are set for tach sensing mode?
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205
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