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viper 5704 / 2004 mountaineer


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vinchinzo 
Copper - Posts: 66
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 11, 2012
Location: Kentucky, United States
Posted: October 15, 2012 at 6:03 PM / IP Logged  
I am going to attempt to install a Viper 5704 in my 2004 Mountaineer. I know this is a crazy task as I have never hooked up an alarm. But I can say I am pretty tech savvy and I believe I can do it heck my dad beat "you can do it" in my head as a kid and I never say cant. =) Anyway I have researched alot and found out alot but still am missing alot I really need help. The only installers in my area want a house payment to install this alarm. I know I will have to run a module to bypass the Pats system..any ideas which one? Right now when I press my stock key I really like the Illuminated entry I would love to keep it and my guess is that it is the Dome light supervision option on this alarm? I cannot find out where the (-)door trigger is? Another question I have in my brain is does the rear hatch need to be hooked up to H2/19 to trigger the alarm or will the light it turns on trigger the alarm? Another question is I want the feature where the alarm tells me the doors are open do I have to run wires to every door trigger I have 4 doors? Below is what I have figured out along with some ?? marks I would SO appreciate any help with this. Thanks alot
Main Harness (H1), 6-pin connector
H1/1 RED (+)12VDC CONSTANT INPUT-----------------Yellow (ignition) May find new source
H1/2 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND-----------------------Ground to Chassis
H1/3 BROWN (+) SIREN OUTPUT-------------------------Siren
H1/4 WHITE/ BROWN PARKING LIGHT ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a of onboard relay------Need Help??
H1/5 WHITE PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT------------------------------------------------Brown (headlight switch)
H1/6 ORANGE (-) 500mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT----------------- -----------------Need Help??
H2 Harness, 24-pin connector
H2/1 PINK/WHITE (-) 200mA IGNITION/FLEX RELAY CONTROL OUTPUT------------------not used??
H2/2 BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY INPUT------------------------------------------------Ground to Chassis
H2/3 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS /REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT---------------- Need Help??
H2/4 GREEN/ BLACK (-) 200mA OEM ALARM DISARM OUTPUT-----------------------------not used
H2/5 RED / WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT-------------ORANGE / lt. green (CSM pass. rear panel)
H2/6 GREEN (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT (N/C* OR N/O)------------------------------------Need Help??
H2/7 BLACK / YELLOW (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT SUPERVISION OUTPUT--------same as (-) door trigger??
H2/8 BROWN / BLACK (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT------Yellow /lt. green (harness @ steering column
H2/9 DARK BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT-----I will need a module to bypass Pats this will go there??
H2/10 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT--------------------------not used when installing remote start??
H2/11 WHITE/ BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT--------------------not used
H2/12 VIOLET (+) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT----------------------------------------------BLACK/ lt. blue (drivers kick)
H2/13 WHITE/ VIOLET (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT-------------------------------not used
H2/14 VIOLET/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT-------------------------------not used
H2/15 ORANGE / BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 4 OUTPUT-----------------------------not used
H2/16 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT---------------------------- Lt. Green (switch above brake pedal)
H2/17 GREY (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (N/C OR N/O)---------------------------- Hood pin wire that came with alarm
H2/18 VIOLET / YELLOW (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT---------------------not used??
H2/19 BLUE (-) TRUNK PIN/ INSTANT TRIGGER INPUT (N/C OR N/O)------------use for rear hatch?? how?
H2/20 GREY/BLACK (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT-------------------------------not used
H2/21 WHITE/ BLUE (-) REMOTE START/ TURBO TIMER ACTIVATION INPUT-------not used
H2/22 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT--------------------------------------not used
H2/23 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT--------------any wire that is not WHITE/ lt. blue (ignition coil)
H2/24 GREEN / WHITE (-) 200mA OEM ALARM ARM OUTPUT---------------------not used
Remote Start, (H3) 10-pin connector
H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT---------------------------------RED / lt. green (ignition switch)
H3/2 RED / WHITE (87) FLEX RELAY +12V INPUT (30A FUSED)----------Yellow (ignition switch)
H3/3 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT------------------------------------Dark GREEN/ lt. green ( ignition switch)
H3/4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL)—Red (@ ignition switch starter side)
H3/5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL)------Red (@ ignition switch keyside)
H3/6 RED IGNITION 1 +12V INPUT (30A FUSED)----------------------------Yellow (ignition switch)
H3/7 PINK/WHITE (30) FLEX RELAY OUTPUT (car side of ign, acc or starter wire)----------------not used
H3/8 PINK/BLACK (87a) FLEX RELAY INPUT (key side of ign, acc or starter wire if needed)----not used
H3/9 RED / BLACK ACCESSORY/STARTER RELAY +12V INPUT (30A FUSED)------------Yellow (ignition switch)
H3/10 NC No Connection----------------------------not used
Door Lock, 3-pin connector
1 BLUE (-) 500mA UNLOCK OUTPUT---------------------------Pink / YELLOW (drivers kick door harness Type B)
2 EMPTY NOT USED-----------not used
3 GREEN (-) 500mA LOCK OUTPUT----------------------------Pink/lt. green(drivers kick door harness Type B)
after this is complete it would be a great guide for someone else =)
When in doubt....kick it!
vinchinzo 
Copper - Posts: 66
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 11, 2012
Location: Kentucky, United States
Posted: October 15, 2012 at 6:07 PM / IP Logged  
2004 Mercury Mountaineer Base V8 4.6 liter
Viper 5704 Responder LC3 SuperCode SST 2-Way Security and Remote Start System5704V
When in doubt....kick it!
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,632
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: October 15, 2012 at 7:18 PM / IP Logged  

Looking good so far, Vince!  Here are some updates...

Domelight supervision may not be required.  Check to see if the interior lights come on when you unlock the doors

with the Factory FOB.  That will also happen with the Viper's unlock command.

You will need a bypass module.  You will need two working, non-clone, keys to program the bypass module.  Saw a

DEI 1100F on EBay listed as NEW and N.I.B. for $15.  They work well on Fords PATS systems.  Other popular bypass
modules are the DEI PKALL and the Fortin Key-OverRide-All.

I don't see any wire guide listings for the 4 individual door pins.

You only need to connect one - Door Trigger (-) or Door Trigger (+) - not both.

Main Harness (H1), 6-pin connector

H1/1 RED (+)12VDC CONSTANT INPUT-----------------Yellow (ignition) May find new source
H1/2 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND-----------------------Ground to Chassis
H1/3 BROWN (+) SIREN OUTPUT-------------------------Siren
H1/4 WHITE/ BROWN PARKING LIGHT ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a of onboard relay------Not Used
H1/5 WHITE PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT-----------------------Brown (headlight switch)  ** Set Viper jumper/fuse to (+)
H1/6 ORANGE (-) 500mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT----------------- -------------- Not Used

H2 Harness, 24-pin connector

H2/1 PINK/WHITE (-) 200mA IGNITION/FLEX RELAY CONTROL OUTPUT----------------- Not Used
H2/2 BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY INPUT------------------------------------ Ground to Chassis * w/auto trans
H2/3 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS /REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT---------------- Not used
H2/4 GREEN/ BLACK (-) 200mA OEM ALARM DISARM OUTPUT-----------------------------not used
H2/5 RED / WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT---- ORANGE / lt. green (CSM pass. rear panel) * Need Relay for (-) to (+)
H2/6 GREEN (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT (N/C* OR N/O)--  yellow/black  - N.C.  driver kick, door harness  *set Viper to N.C.
H2/7 BLACK / YELLOW (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT SUPERVISION OUTPUT--------same as (-) door trigger??
H2/8 BROWN / BLACK (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT------Yellow /lt. green (harness @ steering column
H2/9 DARK BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT----- To bypass module = GWR
H2/10 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT--------------------------not used
H2/11 WHITE/ BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT--------------------not used
H2/12 VIOLET (+) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT----------------------------------------------BLACK/ lt. blue (drivers kick)
H2/13 WHITE/ VIOLET (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT-------------------------------not used
H2/14 VIOLET/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT-------------------------------not used
H2/15 ORANGE / BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 4 OUTPUT-----------------------------not used
H2/16 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT---------------------------- Lt. Green (switch above brake pedal)
H2/17 GREY (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (N/C OR N/O)---------------------------- Hood pin wire that came with alarm
H2/18 VIOLET / YELLOW (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT---------------------not used
H2/19 BLUE (-) TRUNK PIN/ INSTANT TRIGGER INPUT (N/C OR N/O)-- WHITE/ purple - N.C.  driver kick, harness to rear  *set Viper to N.C.
H2/20 GREY/BLACK (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT-------------------------------not used
H2/21 WHITE/ BLUE (-) REMOTE START/ TURBO TIMER ACTIVATION INPUT-------not used
H2/22 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT--------------------------------------not used
H2/23 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT--------------any wire that is not WHITE/ lt. blue (ignition coil)
H2/24 GREEN / WHITE (-) 200mA OEM ALARM ARM OUTPUT---------------------not used

Remote Start, (H3) 10-pin connector

H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT---------------------------------RED / lt. green (ignition switch)
H3/2 RED / WHITE (87) FLEX RELAY +12V INPUT (30A FUSED)----------Yellow (ignition switch)
H3/3 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT------------------------------------Dark GREEN/ lt. green ( ignition switch)
H3/4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL)—Red (@ ignition switch starter side)
H3/5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL)------Red (@ ignition switch keyside)
H3/6 RED IGNITION 1 +12V INPUT (30A FUSED)----------------------------Yellow (ignition switch)
H3/7 PINK/WHITE (30) FLEX RELAY OUTPUT (car side of ign, acc or starter wire)----------------not used
H3/8 PINK/BLACK (87a) FLEX RELAY INPUT (key side of ign, acc or starter wire if needed)----not used
H3/9 RED / BLACK ACCESSORY/STARTER RELAY +12V INPUT (30A FUSED)------------Yellow (ignition switch)
H3/10 NC No Connection----------------------------not used

Door Lock, 3-pin connector

1 BLUE (-) 500mA UNLOCK OUTPUT---------------------------Pink / YELLOW (drivers kick door harness Type B)
2 EMPTY NOT USED-----------not used
3 GREEN (-) 500mA LOCK OUTPUT----------------------------Pink/lt. green(drivers kick door harness Type B)

Soldering is fun!
smokeman1 
Platinum - Posts: 1,588
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: September 14, 2009
Location: Wisconsin, United States
Posted: October 15, 2012 at 7:24 PM / IP Logged  

http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.asp

Link to wiring guide.  Wires listed are a guide and may not match your vehicle. Use a DMM to find and test the wires you need.  The Viper 5701 install manual in the downloads section has a section on finding and testing for the wires you need.

Fortin Key override-all is a good bypass to use. Easy to use but you need two orginal keys to program it.

When all else fails, Read the Instructions
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smokeman1 
Platinum - Posts: 1,588
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: September 14, 2009
Location: Wisconsin, United States
Posted: October 15, 2012 at 7:26 PM / IP Logged  
Once again Kreg, ya got the jump on me......LOL
When all else fails, Read the Instructions
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kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,632
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: October 15, 2012 at 7:36 PM / IP Logged  

A couple more thoughts.

You should solder all connections.

Use heatshrink tube where possible and quality electric tape ( Scotch Super 33+ ) everywhere else.

You will need a Digital Multi Meter to locate, test and verify the vehicle wires.  A low current,

computer safe LED test probe can be used for most wires.  The PATS wires are not DMM testable, go
by the install guide supplied with the bypass for wire identification / location / color, etc.

Locate / position the Viper in a good spot and then group the wires going to the same general area.

Cut eact wire to length and then solder / insulate.  Beware of heat and chaffing in your wire runs.
Use plenty of split-loom, tie wraps and/or black tape to keep thing neat & looking factory.

You will need to change sevaral programming options on the Viper.  This can be done with the remotes

but takes some time getting familiar with moving thru the menus.  Have a few asprins ready ( or beers ).

Plan on spending a full day on the install.  You only want to do it once and have it last for years.

Soldering is fun!
vinchinzo 
Copper - Posts: 66
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 11, 2012
Location: Kentucky, United States
Posted: October 15, 2012 at 10:20 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks so much! I am shocked at how fast I got a response! Woot woot!! So now I have ran into another problem...I only have one key grrrr...I know I can get a clone key for like 50 but that wont work. What do I do? Dealership? Bet that's alot of money there for a key. And one more thing...you said You only need to connect one - Door Trigger (-) or Door Trigger (+) - not both So do I only connect one of these?
H2/6 GREEN (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT (N/C* OR N/O)-- yellow/black - N.C. driver kick, door harness *set Viper to N.C.
H2/12 VIOLET (+) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT----------------------------------------------BLACK/ lt. blue (drivers kick)
I'm guessing If so I should use the (-)?
Thanks so much for the help you rock!
When in doubt....kick it!
shortcircuit161 
Silver - Posts: 556
Silver spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: August 29, 2010
Location: United States
Posted: October 15, 2012 at 10:57 PM / IP Logged  
With only one key, you can buy a DB-ALL from Directed (DEI) or the ADS-AL CA from idatalink. They are more pricey (about $45-$60) but have the ability to "clone" the single key transponder info to allow the remote start to work.
idatalink requires you to have an account with them or know someone that has an account to flash the module.
DEI doesn't require an account to flash the DB-ALL.
flobee4 
Silver - Posts: 585
Silver spacespace
Joined: January 02, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: October 15, 2012 at 11:09 PM / IP Logged  
I had an explorer of that generation. I used the blue/black (+) in the drivers kick panel. It also detects the hatch so there is no need to use the vipers trunk trigger. This wire will continue to show a signal when you close the doors because of the delay in the domelight turning off. In the vipers programming menus there is an option called door trigger error on/off. Turn that option to off.
The Explorer dome light does not come on automatically with unlock. So if you want that feature you will need to wire it up from the Vipers Dome light supervision output. There are 2 options for this. the first is to use a relay on the dome light supervision output of the Viper to convert the negative signal coming out of that wire to a positive. Then you can hook up that positive output to the same BLACK/ blue door trigger wire. The other option is that there is a negative domelight supervision wire at the headlight switch. If you roll the dashboard light dimmer switch all the way up, you will feel it click into a position that turns on the domelight. Pop out the headlight switch from the dashboard and using a meter test for a wire that goes negative when the dimmer switch is rolled all the way up and losing negative when the switch is rolled down. To test you put your red probe on a known positive source and probe the back of the switch with the black probe. Sorry I don't have a color for you. Also a note, while the car is running or remote started the puddle lights on the mirrors won't come on, thats a Ford thing. if the car is sitting there not running and you hit unlock they will come on.
Also if you are doing the rear hatch release, its a positive wire and most diagrams will tell you its at the roof inside the car at the hatch. I believe you can find it in the drivers side rear door running board, same color as listed in the wiring diagrams.
If you only have one key, then I probably would get the clone key and put it in a 556U key in a box solution and you will be good to go. There are other ways to do it with only one key, but you would have to be a registered professional with the companies that offer these solutions. Plus have their programming cables. Your cheapest solution is the clone key inside a 556u
vinchinzo 
Copper - Posts: 66
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 11, 2012
Location: Kentucky, United States
Posted: October 16, 2012 at 6:24 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks everyone for your help you guys have been awesome! Here is a update of my plans lol I have looked into the One transponder key issue and I've decided to let this local Locksmith guy make me a Key for 50 bucks. He assures me it wont be a clone it will be a second programmed key. I think its a good idea cuz if I loose my one key I will so be screwed! lol So in doing that I'm gonna go with the Dei Xpresskit PKALL. Here is my final updated install tech sheet please look it over and see if I'm missing anything or anything is wrong.
Main Harness (H1), 6-pin connector
H1/1 RED (+)12VDC CONSTANT INPUT-----------------Yellow (ignition)
H1/2 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND-----------------------Ground to Chassis
H1/3 BROWN (+) SIREN OUTPUT-------------------------Siren
H1/4 WHITE/ BROWN PARKING LIGHT ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a of onboard relay------Not Used
H1/5 WHITE PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT-----------------------Brown (headlight switch) ** Set Viper jumper/fuse to (+)
H1/6 ORANGE (-) 500mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT----------------- -------------- Not Used
H2 Harness, 24-pin connector
H2/1 PINK/WHITE (-) 200mA IGNITION/FLEX RELAY CONTROL OUTPUT----------------- Not Used
H2/2 BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY INPUT------------------------------------ Ground to Chassis *w/auto trans
H2/3 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS /REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT---------------- Not used
H2/4 GREEN/ BLACK (-) 200mA OEM ALARM DISARM OUTPUT-----------------------------not used
H2/5 RED / WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT---- ORANGE / lt. green (CSM pass. rear panel) *Need Relay for (-) to (+)
H2/6 GREEN (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT (N/C* OR N/O)-- yellow/black (driver kick, door harness) *set Viper to N.C.
H2/7 BLACK / YELLOW (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT SUPERVISION OUTPUT--------BLACK/ lt. blue (drivers kick) *Need Relay for (-) to (+)
H2/8 BROWN / BLACK (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT------Yellow /lt. green (harness @ steering column
H2/9 DARK BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT----- To PKALL bypass module = GWR (Blue/Wht wire on connector 1 of PKALL)
H2/10 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT--------------------------not used
H2/11 WHITE/ BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT--------------------not used
H2/12 VIOLET (+) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT----------------------------------------------BLACK/ lt. blue (drivers kick)
H2/13 WHITE/ VIOLET (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT-------------------------------not used
H2/14 VIOLET/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT-------------------------------not used
H2/15 ORANGE / BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 4 OUTPUT-----------------------------not used
H2/16 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT---------------------------- Lt. Green (switch above brake pedal)
H2/17 GREY (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (N/C OR N/O)---------------------------- Hood pin wire that came with alarm
H2/18 VIOLET / YELLOW (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT---------------------not used
H2/19 BLUE (-) TRUNK PIN/ INSTANT TRIGGER INPUT (N/C OR N/O)-- WHITE/ purple - N.C. driver kick, harness to rear *set Viper to N.C.
H2/20 GREY/BLACK (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT-------------------------------not used
H2/21 WHITE/ BLUE (-) REMOTE START/ TURBO TIMER ACTIVATION INPUT-------not used
H2/22 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT--------------------------------------not used
H2/23 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT--------------any wire that is not WHITE/ lt. blue (ignition coil)
H2/24 GREEN / WHITE (-) 200mA OEM ALARM ARM OUTPUT---------------------not used
Remote Start, (H3) 10-pin connector
H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT---------------------------------RED / lt. green (ignition switch)
H3/2 RED / WHITE (87) FLEX RELAY +12V INPUT (30A FUSED)----------Yellow (ignition switch)
H3/3 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT------------------------------------Dark GREEN/ lt. green (ignition switch)
H3/4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL)—Red (@ ignition switch starter side)
H3/5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL)------Red (@ ignition switch keyside)
H3/6 RED IGNITION 1 +12V INPUT (30A FUSED)----------------------------Yellow (ignition switch)
H3/7 PINK/WHITE (30) FLEX RELAY OUTPUT (car side of ign, acc or starter wire)----------------not used
H3/8 PINK/BLACK (87a) FLEX RELAY INPUT (key side of ign, acc or starter wire if needed)----not used
H3/9 RED / BLACK ACCESSORY/STARTER RELAY +12V INPUT (30A FUSED)------------Yellow (ignition switch)
H3/10 NC No Connection----------------------------not used
Door Lock, 3-pin connector
1 BLUE (-) 500mA UNLOCK OUTPUT---------------------------Pink / YELLOW (drivers kick door harness Type B)
2 EMPTY NOT USED-----------not used
3 GREEN (-) 500mA LOCK OUTPUT----------------------------Pink/lt. green(drivers kick door harness Type B)
XPRESS PKALL MODULE
Connector 1
D2D---------------------------------To D2D on Viper 5704
Connector 2
PURPLE / wht RX(data in) -------------Gray/orange (@ IMMOBILIZER NEAR KEY BARREL Pin 4 closes to key)
Yellow/blk TX(data out)-------------WHITE/ lt. green (@ IMMOBILIZER NEAR KEY BARREL Pin 3)
Blue/wht----------------------------To H2/9 DARK BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT- of Viper 5704
Green-------------------------------not used
Pink--------------------------------RED / lt. green (ignition switch) Do I hook this up and leave H3/1 of the alarm unconnected???
Black-------------------------------not used
Connector 3 & 4 (not used)
My understanding of the two relays I will need to hook up for 1. the rear hatch to use trunk trigger and 2. for dome light supervision should be hooked up the same way?
For Rear hatch
#775 relay
Pin 85 black-----------------------to H2/5 RED / WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT of Viper 5704
Pin 86/30 white and blue-----------wired to a 12v constant
Pin 87a Red------------------------not used
Pin 87 Yellow-----------------------to ORANGE / lt. green (CSM pass. rear panel)
Dome light supervision
#775 relay
Pin 85 black-----------------------H2/7 BLACK / YELLOW (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT SUPERVISION OUTPUT of Viper 5704
Pin 86/30 white and blue-----------wired to a 12v constant
Pin 87a Red------------------------not used
Pin 87 Yellow-----------------------to BLACK/ lt. blue (drivers kick)
The only question I have now is the only 12v constant that I have been using it the Yellow wire at the ignition should I use or maybe run a new source from the battery to run some of these? and Can I place the two relays back to back by where ever I decide to place the Brain of the alarm?
I think this is gonna be the complete setup how does it look? Wowsers Im kinda skeered lol
When in doubt....kick it!
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