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viper 5704 / 2004 mountaineer


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howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: October 22, 2012 at 12:59 AM / IP Logged  
Logically using the factory grounding bolt is the best place. I find that (DEI) advice very confusing.
Kick panel area is the usual candidate but you should have spare bolts or threaded M6 inserts you can use if you want to avoid the factory ground.
Just clean/scrape the metal work as Kregg advises.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: October 22, 2012 at 1:04 AM / IP Logged  
Oh and BTW twisting your wiring as per the photo, a total waste of time and effort.
Tape, sleeve, cable tie (zip tie) are all better.
Matching the factory tape for stealth is the best method.
Twisting wires is used on low/current low voltage signal wire, speaker wire and explosive detonator wire as static suppression.
I know it looks pretty but as the villain it would lead me straight to the brain.
vinchinzo 
Copper - Posts: 66
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 11, 2012
Location: Kentucky, United States
Posted: October 22, 2012 at 6:30 AM / IP Logged  
Thanks a lot. I'm gonna finish up today only have three wires left then programming. O and howie them wires shown in the pic are factory ground wires. If u look real hard there is another O ring connected to it my wires are taped and sleaved running up into the dash :) but I will say in my mountaineer there is like No room to put the brain way up in the dash it's very hollow. The only place I could have ran it was the passenger side but then you could have just yanked the glove box down and seen everything . It kinda sucked. I put it 'n the best spot I could find and taped everything to look factory.
When in doubt....kick it!
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: October 22, 2012 at 1:15 PM / IP Logged  
Sorry about that, a bit knee jerk, usual places:-
Centre console behind kick panels, behind gauges, behind glove box, under driver's seat.
vinchinzo 
Copper - Posts: 66
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 11, 2012
Location: Kentucky, United States
Posted: October 22, 2012 at 5:58 PM / IP Logged  
I've got it all done and so far its looking pretty good! Remote start, locks, trunk pop, trunk and each door triggers, peizo and siren all work. =) The only issue I'm having is the shock sensor and the glass break...the shock sensor works but the glass don't seem to be. And I'm getting two chirps and a message saying shock sensor when I arm. My alarm has two sensor ports I hooked up the glass break just like the directions said I used a Y cable that came with it plugged the glass sensor up and the shock to it then ran the cable to 1 port on the alarm. The shock actually works when I hit the car. I think its one of two things...either I cant program zone 4 because I don't have a bitwriter. Or I may have to disconnect the Y cable and run each sensor separate one to each sensor port on the alarm... Right now I am dying to see if I'm gonna get a false alarm its been about 25 minutes and no false yet. I ran eight diodes and 4 resistors on the door triggers but nothing on the trunk trigger and I feel when the vsm checks for dome I'm gonna get false on my trunk. We will see... I will upload a pictorial tomorrow I'm to darn tired right now! LOL Thanks everyone for your help you guys rock!
When in doubt....kick it!
vinchinzo 
Copper - Posts: 66
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 11, 2012
Location: Kentucky, United States
Posted: October 22, 2012 at 6:41 PM / IP Logged  
I have a theory..could it be that both sensors are working but actually reporting the same zone (shock sensor)because the way I have it ran to one port and my peizo is setting off the glass break every time I arm with its crazy high pitch chirp?
When in doubt....kick it!
vinchinzo 
Copper - Posts: 66
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 11, 2012
Location: Kentucky, United States
Posted: October 22, 2012 at 6:54 PM / IP Logged  
Yup I believe my theory is right shux I wish I would have known about the peizo/glass break sensor issue. Looks like I have to get rid of one..or do away with glass break (it only cost me 7 bucks) and get a proximity sensor.
When in doubt....kick it!
lurch228 
Silver - Posts: 1,338
Silver spacespace
Joined: August 08, 2012
Posted: October 22, 2012 at 10:23 PM / IP Logged  
You need too verify that the y-cable if it's the the one I'm thinking about that it not plugged in backwards!
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: October 23, 2012 at 1:41 AM / IP Logged  
I hate glass break sensors but yes the piezo IS probably triggering the glass break.
Disconnect one and set up the other then reverse that till both work properly on their own.
Then try it with both plugged in.
This part can take up to an hour personally I'd throw them both away and use a 508d dual zone prox.
vinchinzo 
Copper - Posts: 66
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 11, 2012
Location: Kentucky, United States
Posted: October 23, 2012 at 5:53 AM / IP Logged  
Yea it's all ran right and working like they r made to. The problem is I can't activate zone 4 without a bitwriter(lame) so both sensors report zone 2 shock. And the piezo sets off the glass which is OK at first arm because it's just a notification. But a warn away chirp causes the glass break to go full trigger...so it's coMing out! Lol I already ordered the prox it will b here wed. :) I'm keeping the peizo I like it. But everything else is working perfect no false alarms woot woot! And I don't get no chirp at arm from the delayed dome!! Yeaaaaa :) pretty Awesome
When in doubt....kick it!
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