2009 tundra remote start and bypass

Only a few updates to your excellent chart.

Parking Light isolation wire is not used.  The guides I saw listed the Tundra (-) Parking Light wire as Tan,

no diode needed.  Also set the Vipers Parking Light internal jumper/fuse to (-), factory default is (+).

The Vipers BLACK/ White Neutral Safety Input wire should go the chassis ground for an auto trans vehicle.

The iDatalink ADS AL-CA bypass module is looking for a (+) Ignition input its' Pink wire.  The Vipers' Ign output on

Pin 10 of the 24 Pin harness is (-). 

The H3 harness with the ADS bypass Pink wire added.  While it shouldn't matter, Ign1 and Ign2 are switched.

1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT        Black @ Ign switch Pin 6 * PLUS*  ADS AL CA Pink (+) Ign Input

2 RED / WHITE (30A) FUSED FLEX RELAY Input       +12V @ thick Black wire @ Fuse Box3 ORANGE ACCESSORY OUTPUT   Gray @ Ign switch Pin 24 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE)          Dark Green @ Ign switch Pin 7  Cut5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE)              Dark Green @ Ign switch Pin 7  Cut6 RED (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT            +12V @ thick Black wire @ Fuse Box7 PINK/WHITE (+) FLEX RELAY OUTPUT      Light Green @ Ign switch Pin 1     *** Viper set to Ign28 PINK/BLACK FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A     Not Used9 RED / BLACK FUSED (30A) ACC/STARTER INPUT         +12V @ thick Black wire @ Fuse Box10 N/C N/C

A note on the ADS AL-CA bypass module.  Hopefully you are getting it flashed with the DBI AL(DL) -TL1 firmware.  That will allow the D2D connection between the Viper and bypass.  I think that a special cable ( ADS HRN DBI ) might be optional and not included in the package ( unless you get the FLCAN version ).   My recommendation is to perform a Factory Reset on the module and set the Installation Mode to Data Mode ( one blink ) and lock it in, then program the bypass to the truck.

Soldering is fun!

Kreg357 Thanks for the assistance. Modified my sheet below for a All alarm points, and a second sheet for only the connections i will make. I have a couple questions:

1. Do you know the connection harness, wire color and pin for the defrost? (I have auto climate control)
2. I have to confirm, but looks like I need a relay to power my Topper actuator
3. Will a relay be needed to interrupt the auto headlights? Or will I need to program a setting to turn them off if i
4. For the sunroof open/close, Do you know the connection point to auto close/open the sunroof? I can open or close it by holding the key in the door for 3 seconds or more. Guessing I would need to Connect to AUX with a 3-10 second timed output for open. And I would need to do the same for close but link the AUX to arm?

Below shows a total of 25 connections, 4 power can be bundled and 3 ground to be bundled creating effectively 20 total terminations, including plugging in the D2D cord and shock sensor. Not to bad. The Unit is already flashed to the DBI AL(DL)-TL1 firmware, and it included the ADS HRN DBI cable as well as the standard cable for d2d. Great suggestion for anyone else!   

Here is some info on the Rear Defrost. ( Test to be sure.)

Audiovox info for 2009 Tundra  Rear Defrost  RED  (-)  A/C CONTROL UNIT

Omega has this info :

  Rear Defrost  GREEN (-)  20 PIN GREY CONN IN DKP PIN #3

Can't help on the aftermarket Topper circuit.  Probably have to test at the switch.

Can't find any info on the AutoHeadlights.  Most people don't worry too much about them.  At night, when the vehicle

is under remote start, they will come on.  If you find a basic (-) signal wire coming from the Headlight connectorthat comes on in the Auto position of the switch, you can use a relay and (-) Status Output to open that wire.

Can't find any info on the Sunroof, but if the truck has "total closure" thru the door key, you can program a Viper

AUX output to handle it.  You will need a BitWriter to make changes in that Menu ( or use a 528T module )...

There should be a forum member with access to "AstroChart type" info for those wires, hopefully.   

The Vipers Blue Status Output shouldn't be necessary for the bypass module when going D2D.

Soldering is fun!