advancedkeys problem

Aparrently you know them well enough...

Here is exactly what is happening (please ignore my previous posts as this is the final issue, remote start works and is not setting off the factory alarm in this configuration) and my thoughts on resolving.., Please let me know what you experts suggest, am I approaching this the right way?

This is how the GWR wire is connected between all 4 devices (Viper, DBALL, AK and Vehicle - keysense.

Originally the GWR was connected only to the Viper and DBALL, I spliced the AK GWR (- keysense) wire into the existing GWR between the Viper and DBALL then I spliced another wire in the same place to feed the Vehicle - keysense wire.Let me explain exactly what is happening with the door locks.I unlock the car and get in the AK is in READY mode, when I do the following1. Press the button 1 time for ACC mode (GWR output enabled) it triggers my door to unlock (even though it is unlocked already)2. Press the button 2nd time for ON mode (GWR still enabled) there is no door lock activity3. Press the button 3rd time for START mode (GWR still enabled) there is no door lock activity4. Press the brake and hold button for 2 seconds, the engine shuts off (GWR disabled) and it triggers my door to lockSeems like when the AK GWR is outputting the signal (enabled) it triggers my doors to unlock and when the A GWR stops the outputting the signal (disabled) then it triggers my doors to lock, this is because the AK stops sending the GWR output only in the READY mode.Here lies the problem, since I want to get out of the car I have to unlock my doors manuallyWhat I did to correct the unlock trigger from happening. Would like to figure out how to remedy the lock triggering without having to set the Viper to unlock with ignition.Seems like placing a diode on the AK GWR (- keysense) wire that is feeding the vehicle - keysense (band facing towards AK brain) when I go from READY to ACC mode the door unlock trigger no longer happens however when shutting off the engine the lock is still triggering. Perhaps another diode on the AK GWR wire that is feeding the DBALL?Or another solution I have not tested is to use the GWR from the AK for only the -keysense wire and to supply the ground to the DBALL by using one of the Vipers AUX - outputs and set it to latched and link it to disarm, this will enable the ground to the DBALL when the viper is Disarmed and keep it enabled until the Viper is Armed. In theory seperating the AK GWR and AK - keysense since this seems to be the issue.Thank you and I apoprciate all your replies and suggestions.

First of all, as suggested before, you need to diode isolate all 3 of the triggers from each other. Otherwise they will backfeed into each other. Second, I am assuming you used the cut key method for bypassing the steering wheel lock? Did you isolate the key sense and accessory like it shows in the AK instruction manual? How did you connect the door locks from the AK module (or is it strictly the push button start and not the keyless module)? Does the DBALL have any settings that can be changed? If so try to find the "lock after shut-down" and turn that off. Something else to try to help determine if the Viper is causing the doors to lock or if it is the DBALL: try connecting only the AK GWR to the DBALL and temporarily disconnect the Viper GWR. See if the problem continues.Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

Also, maybe I missed it, but what vehicle is all of this installed into?Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

Installed in an 07 Acura RDX So far I only diode isolated the keysense wire (band facing towards AK brain)and solved the unlock trigger. I am not sure how to place the other diodes and would need some assistance with that if you could help that would be greatly appreciated. I did use the key cut method and did isolate the keysense and the accessory wire as per the AK instructions. Strictly push button. The unlock and lock wires are connected from the Viper to DBALL and then the analog lock and unlock from the DBALL to the car as per the DBALL instructions. All door locking and unlocking functionality from the Vehicle and Viper have been disabled, I only enabled the Viper Unlock with ignition to override the lock that is happening now due to the AK. At least that way my door unlocks when I turn off the vehicle. I can replicate the lock/unlock issue by connecting and disconnecting a vehicle ground to the GWR wire with the way I have everything connected now. I will try what you suggested this evening to see if I can determine if it is the Viper or DBALL causing the issue. Thank you for the prompt reply!

Correction... I unlock the car and get in the AK is in READY mode, when I do the following 1. Press the button 1 time for ACC mode (GWR output enabled) it triggers my door to unlock (even though it is unlocked already) 2. Press the button 2nd time for ON mode (GWR still enabled) there is no door lock activity 3. Press the button 3rd time for START mode (GWR still enabled) there is no door lock activity 4. Press the brake and hold button for 2 seconds, the engine shuts off (GWR disabled) and it triggers my door to lock Even if I do not start the car and just press the button again to cycle to ACC the door locks.

Too add to the keysense bypassing. I had to connect it back to the vehicle. If I bypass the keysense as per AdvancedKeys instruction the factory alarm sets off every time I remote start. I will try the diode with the factory keysense connected to see if it also stops the unlock like it did with the keysense bypassed and connected to the AK brain.

Aaaargh, another correction also The locks never unlock they are only locking when the push button hits ACC mode. I have tried diodes on the keysense and Viper status output (band towards brain) and they do not appear to resolve any of the issues I am having. Updated... I unlock the car and get in the AK is in READY mode, when I do the following 1. Press the button 1 time for ACC mode (GWR output enabled) it triggers my door to lock 2. Press the button 2nd time for ON mode (GWR still enabled) there is no door lock activity 3. Press the button 3rd time for START mode (GWR still enabled) there is no door lock activity 4. Press the brake and hold button for 2 seconds, the engine shuts off (GWR disabled) there is no door lock activity Even if I do not start the car and just press the button again to cycle to ACC the door locks. So it appears something is signaling my doors to lock when the GWR output from the push button brain goes from no ground output to ground output. That is the first problem Now the second problem If I follow AdvancedKeys instructions and bypass the keysense my remote start triggers the factory alarm. If I leave the keysense connected to the vehicle the factory alarm is disabled (led never blinks) and I can remote start with out the factory alarm triggering. Of course with the keysense connected like this I get the key warning and I also lose the vipers domelight supervision.

Which side of the cut keysense wire do you have the GWR off the Viper connected to? It should be on the BCM side (NOT the key side). Turn the Viper ignition locks off so we can test without wondering what that is doing. The Viper ignition locks is what is causing the doors to lock when you go to ACC. So it sounds like once you turn that off, everything should function correctly.Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

Here is exactly how the GWR wires should be connected. Viper GWR --> diode (band towards Viper) --> DBALL  --> diode (band towards Viper) --> Keysense (BCM side) AK GWR    --> diode (band towards AK)    --> DBALL  --> diode (band towards AK)    --> Keysense (BCM side) Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

I depined the keysense from the factory harness and have the AK GWR to the wire. All Viper and vehicle ignition locking has been disabled and it still locks. I only set the Viper ignition lock to unlock since it seems to overide whatever is causing the lock issue so now it unlocks instead of lock when I turn the car off with the push button. I will leave all ignition control locking/unlocking disabled for now to help troubleshooting. I haven't tried the diodes as you suggested yet but I am confused with them still. 2 of them that you listed do not have anything in front of the --> but I am probably not reading it correctly. Thank you for helping me out with this, it is driving me crazy.