advancedkeys problem

I wasn't sure if you would get that either. Basically the Viper GWR and AK GWR each get split to the 2 "circuits" (legs) using the diodes. Regardless of whether or not they fix the issue, the diodes should be installed to prevent back feeding. Where did you get the keysense from? I read up on one of the DBALL install manuals and there are programming options that most likely relate to your issue. There are 2 revalent settings... Ignition locks and the Smart OEM alarm. Take a look through the DBALL manual and try changing both settings to disabled and see if that works.Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

I am getting the keysense output from the AK brain as they suggested when I contacted them before the install. They said the GWR - output of the module goes to the DBALL and this wire is the same feed for the keysense to the vehicle. Honestly the module should have 2 Independent outputs if you ask me. My DBALL has a few probable features but not those. I can send you the install guide if you would like to view it.

What firmware is it? I should be able to view it by that. The AK can have 2 GWR outputs by just diode isolating the 1 output and making 2 outputs. Connect the band side of both diodes together to the AK GWR output then connect one of diodes to the DBALL and the other to the keysense. Diode isolating the GWR output from both the AK and the Viper is the correct way that it should be connected. Connecting it any other way will eventually cause problems whether or not it is the cause of your current issue.Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

True however if the AK had a seperate output that didn't switch ground on and off depecding on button mode and supplied a constant ground regardless of button mode then I wouldn't be having the lock issue.

Firmware is HONDA4 for the 2007 Acura RDX, the latest version. It was re-flashed last week. Only thing I can think of is possibly the Trunk option being enabled is interfering due to the Trunk and Doors essentially being one in the same, the doors lock and unlock the trunk. I will disable the 2, 3 & 4 options completely which may resolve the locking issue.

The way I currently have the GWR connected is the original connection which was Viper to DBALL, I then took the GWR output from the AK and soldered into the existing connection were I originally soldered the Viper and DBALL wire, I did the same with the output for the vehicle keysense so essentially all 4 wire are splitting from the middle, kinda like ><

The thing I can't wrap my head around is the factory alarm is being set off on remote start if I do not keep the keysense connected to the vehicle (stock). Once I attempt to connect the GWR to the keysense (BCM side) remote start always sets off the factory alarm, I don't even have the option of installing it as per their instructions. Keeping it connected to the vehicle (stock) then I can remote start without triggering the alarm but I get the key warning and lose the Vipers domelight supervision.

Maybe I'm just misunderstanding you, but a good place for "output that didn't switch ground on and off depending on buttong mode and supplied a constant ground regardless of button mode" would be the chassis ground... which would leave the module activated at all times. Going by your latest test, the GWR is functioning exactly as it should.. it is providing a ground signal whenever the unit is is ACC, IGN, or START/RUN mode... which is exactly what it should be. You don't want it to show ground when turned off. As I said before, you can't just solder the 4 wires together and expect them not to back feed into each other. You HAVE to use diodes wired up like I posted before... no choice about it. Where did you depin the wire from? It sounds like you are connecting the keysense to the wrong side. Try cutting the wire instead of depinning (can always be soldered back together) and see what side continues showing ground with the key in the ignition. Then connect both DIODE ISOLATED GWR outputs (1 from AK, 1 from Viper) to the wire that does NOT show ground with the key in the ignition. Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

I will be working on the diodes soon. Yes the GWR from the AK is working as it should just messing with my lock which the diodes may fixso I will try. the connector which is at the ignition that houses the keysense wire, that is where I removed the wire and connected the AK GWR to the wire I removed, It can't be the key side. It does do what it is suppose to in the off position I do not get the key warning and my Viper domelight supervision works however if I connect it like this then the remote start sets off my factory alarm although this could also be diode related as I notice the DBALL does not attempt to unlock and lock my doors prior to remote start like it did before the A was installed. I will update once I have a chance to place the diodes exactly as you suggested. Thanks again for taking the time to help.

I would also do as I suggested with the keysense. De-pinning isn't the best method anyways because the pin can become damaged and never re-pinned if you ever decided to put it back to factory. Where-as a simple cut wire can always be soldered back together. Looking at the wire info for that car, the keysense wire should be in the harness connecting to the immobilizer control unit. Therefore, that unit MAY be the 'BCM side' that needs to see the keysense... not what is actually 'producing' the keysense signal.Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

With 2, 3 & 4 set to No option in the DBALL programming the locks behave differently. Now the locks unlock and lock when the push button gets to ACC mode and every time it cycles through to ACC mode so the only difference is that it is now unlocking and locking instead of just locking. It does this only when I have the keysense left as stock. If I remove the keysense wire and attach to AK GWR then it only locks just like before. I am still a little confused about the diodes. If I have the wiring as described before, all connected in the middle so the wiring would be similiar to an X with one device at each corner, essentially coming out of the Viper and then it branches off to the DBALL, AK and Keysense wire (BCM side) is that proper? something tells me that it's not since you advised to have the diodes act as a branch from the Viper and the AK. Sorry my brain has taken a huge toll with this AdvancedKey. I am regretting putting this in and beyond frustrated and am just about to go back to using my key. I followed what AdvancedKey has advised to do in regards to the Keysense and GWR and their manual does not specify the use of diodes, even asking them multiple times about diodes they have not told me to use them on any wire. As far as I am aware and I could be wrong but wouldn't the Viper, DBALL & AK have diodes in the units on these inputs and outputs? I would rather install 15 remote start/bypass combos then 1 of these modules. I will try the diodes and then I have no choice but to bin the AdvancedKey module. I have literally had my car apart for 2 months now and have over 60 hours in just trying to get this module to work without affecting a critical part of the way the rest of the system operates. The rest of my system was working 100% prior to this and only took 4 hours to install with not 1 issue. Thanks again for all your help, I will try the diodes but honestly I just don't think this AdvancedKey module is worth the headache, frustration and time involved.

Where would the immobilizer control unit be? I am getting the wire from the steering column connector, just under where the ignition cylinder is. Green connector, pink wire with silver band. Here is what happens when I remove that wire and connect to the AK, it appears to work as normal. I press the button in ACC mode and the dash lights up with the welcome, I switch to ON mode and it stays on, when I switch to standby it is off and I can open the door with no key warning and the Viper domelight supervision also works... However here is the one problem that stops it from being 100%... When I remote start the car the factory alarm goes nuts, what I notice is the Viper is not unlocking and locking the vehicle anymore to bypass the factory alarm. That is what I need to resolve. The other issue is the door locking everytime I cycle to ACC, I believe both these issues are related (they are both door locks) If I put the keysense back to stock then I can remote start fine however the lock when cycled to ACC is still there.

Think I understand the diode and wiring now, does this make sense? X with 1 device at each corner. Viper connected with diode placed inline (band facing towards Viper) DBALL connected with diode placed inline (band facing away from DBALL) AK connected with diode placed inline (band facing towards AK) Keysense with diode placed inline (band facing away from Keysense) ground will not flow through the diodes that are placed inline with band towards the device, essentially this allows the outputs to only be an output and inputs to only be an input. No ground being fed where it is shouldn't be fed.