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2010 ford fusion heated seats


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howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: December 08, 2012 at 2:32 AM / IP Logged  
You are testing with the engine running aren't you?
That's the only way it will work.
and_fis 
Member - Posts: 11
Member spacespace
Joined: November 27, 2012
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: December 08, 2012 at 11:36 AM / IP Logged  
Yea. I'm testing with the engine running. But the ground pulse still doesn't work. Even a manual ground pulse doesn't work. It only works unless I play with the buttons a bit. Then it will work. But, As soon as it's tried after a fresh start it will not. Unless you play with the buttons again then it will only work 20% of the time with a manual neg pulse. That's why I think it's a break neg pulse. When the button is pressed voltage drops from 13.75 to .022 I can count to 2 and the voltage jumps back to 13.75. It does this every time the button is pressed.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: December 08, 2012 at 11:40 AM / IP Logged  
If you have a spare 5 terminal Bosch/Tycho cube relay, wire as follows:-
Aux to 85.
Constant 12V+, fused 2 amps.
Switch side to 87a
Output side to 30.
Good ground to 87.
Diode, 1N4004 across 85 and 86, diode band to 86, MANDATORY.
and_fis 
Member - Posts: 11
Member spacespace
Joined: November 27, 2012
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: December 08, 2012 at 12:03 PM / IP Logged  
So I would have to actually splice the WHITE/ blue wire. Switch side to 87a and the other side to 30. That should cause a 12v break in that line just as the switch does. Correct?
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: December 08, 2012 at 12:20 PM / IP Logged  
Yes and terminal 87 supplies the ground at the same time.
and_fis 
Member - Posts: 11
Member spacespace
Joined: November 27, 2012
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: December 08, 2012 at 2:41 PM / IP Logged  
I did it exactly as you described it. And still nothing. The other thing that I just found out is if I cut the WHITE/ blue wire with nothing attached to either end, I can press the heater button and it still comes on. Makes me think that the wire is wrong that is detailed to be the right one.
and_fis 
Member - Posts: 11
Member spacespace
Joined: November 27, 2012
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: December 08, 2012 at 2:49 PM / IP Logged  
Never mind. The light for the seat turns off after 5 seconds when not hooked up. And when it's attached per your last detail the button doesn't work either. So i'm guessing that its not a break relay setup either. Any other ideas as to what's going on.
and_fis 
Member - Posts: 11
Member spacespace
Joined: November 27, 2012
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: December 08, 2012 at 3:00 PM / IP Logged  
So I went through this troubleshooting it. I went back to just a negative pulse. He is what I have done. 1: remote started the vehicle. 2: manually press the heated seat button. Then turned it off. 3: I trigger the relay manually by clicking it on a ground. The seat turns on with the ground pulse. But it only works with a ground pulse if the seat button was previously used. This is really puzzling me and only makes me want to get it to work even more. Lol
and_fis 
Member - Posts: 11
Member spacespace
Joined: November 27, 2012
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: December 09, 2012 at 12:30 PM / IP Logged  
I still can't get the heated seats to work. The ground pulse it needs might need a resistor or something on it. But as far as I can see in all the tech logs about this car and the seats it does not. I really don't want to crack open the button control box and solder stuff in there. I am at a total loss. I have read about other people having problems with this car but no one has figured it out, or they just haven't posted anywhere about it.
lurch228 
Silver - Posts: 1,338
Silver spacespace
Joined: August 08, 2012
Posted: December 10, 2012 at 8:36 PM / IP Logged  
The main power to the elements should be controlled by a relay probally under the dash. You can activate a additional relay with a latch at the relays to provide fused direct power to the elements. I have only done a 300m with a simular setup, but should be the same.
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