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03 silverado diesel/avital 4103/dball


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4x4ranger 
Member - Posts: 16
Member spacespace
Joined: December 06, 2012
Location: Wisconsin, United States
Posted: December 06, 2012 at 9:58 AM / IP Logged  

First off, great site! I’ve used search countless times already!

Vehicle: 2003 Silverado 2500HD diesel

Remote Start: Avital 4103
Bypass Module: DBALL

Preparing for D2D install, does everything look correct?

H1/1: ()Factory alarm disarm - N/A
H1/2: ()Factory rearm - N/A
H1/3: (+)Ignition out (to alarm) - Connect to white wire on ignition harness (or brown or pink? Does it matter?)
H1/4: (-)Activation Input - N/A
H1/5: (-)Ground when locked - N/A
H1/6: (-)Horn Output – N/A
H1/7: (-)Trunk Release Output - N/A
H1/8: Ground - To common ground
H1/9: (-) Light Flash – Connect to BCM, gray/black wire, pin B2. Also need to change jumper on remote start to negative.

4-pin satellite harness

1: (-)Status Output – D2D
2: (-) Accessory Output – D2D
3: (-) Starter Output – D2D
4: (-) Ignition Output – D2D

Heavy gauge relay wiring

1: (+) Output to Ignition Circuit – to pink ignition wire
2: (+) Output to Starter Circuit - to yellow ignition wire
3: (+) Output to Accessory Circuit - to orange ignition wire
4: (+) (30A) High Current 12 Input - to red ignition wire
5: (+) Programmable output for accessory or ignition – to brown (or white, does it matter?) ignition wire
6: (+) (30A) High Current 12 Input - to red ignition wire

Door lock harness

1: (-) Unlock output – N/A
2: N/A
3: (-) Unlock output – N/A

Remote start harness (H2)

H2/1: (-) Neutral safety switch input – N/A
H2/2: Tachometer wire – N/A
H2/3: (+) Brake switch shutdown – to white brake pedal wire
H2/4: (-) Hood pin switch - to hood pin switch if used or leave wire disconnected?
H2/5 (-) 200ma 2nd status/rear defogger output - N/A.

DBALL violet / YELLOW to violet pin 2 on OBDII connector.

Finally, I could not find the wire to hook to the wait to start light, so I assume I will have to set the wait to start timer in the remote start programming menu which is 15 seconds (that’s the minimum and it seems long, my truck is taking about 6 seconds for the light to turn off when its 32 degrees out).

I also plan to have the truck’s heated seats turn on when below 32 degrees. This is controlled through the DBALL menu.

Does this all look correct? Any clarification on the H1/3 or Heavy gauge wire number 5?

Thank you in advance!!!

kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,788
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: December 06, 2012 at 10:11 AM / IP Logged  

A few updates...

H1/3 - not used ( don't connect to ignition harness )

H3/5 White to Truck White IGN2 - set Avital Flex relay to IGN2.  Must power or transmission issues.

You will need an extra external relay if you want to power the Brown ACC2 wire.  Use (-) Accessory Output
from 4 Pin Satelite harness to control relay.

H2/1 to chassis ground if truck is auto trans.

H2/4 install hood pin and connect wire.  Important safety feature.

Not an Avital user or a big fan of D2D.  03 silverado diesel/avital 4103/dball -- posted image.   Have read of some issues with D2D and Avital...  W2W always works.

Soldering is fun!
4x4ranger 
Member - Posts: 16
Member spacespace
Joined: December 06, 2012
Location: Wisconsin, United States
Posted: December 06, 2012 at 12:22 PM / IP Logged  

so for the H3/5, I'll connect to the white in ignition harness. The 4103 is default set to ignition (vs accessory), so I'll leave it to default.

Any comments about the wait to start wire? It seems there must not be one with this remote start?

With D2D, I've read similar on here with various bypass modules. Though I havn't read anything using the DBALL bypass using D2D. If I run into issue's, I'll just go W2W. I'm hoping to keep this install as simple as possible.

kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,788
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: December 06, 2012 at 2:36 PM / IP Logged  

Not familiar with the Avital 4103 but going by the install guide from the Downloads section, there doesn't appear to be an actual Wait To Start wire, just the programmable wait period, with 15 seconds being the shortest. 

Just a thought on the DB-ALL's Tach output : It may not be generated on a diesel engine, not positive.  Also, some units can not transfer the tach data thru the D2D connection.  So, if you can't get the Avital to successfully Tach Learn, try running a hardwire between the modules.  If it still won't learn, then you may have to go directly to the White tach wire at the instrument cluster.

Soldering is fun!
auto enhancers 
Copper - Posts: 203
Copper spacespace
Joined: April 09, 2012
Location: Indiana, United States
Posted: December 06, 2012 at 10:38 PM / IP Logged  
Depending in the date code of the avital will determine if it will work D2D. Also some need programmed to operate in D2D vs ESP.
lucasoil4u 
Copper - Posts: 317
Copper spacespace
Joined: May 11, 2009
Location: Minnesota, United States
Posted: December 12, 2012 at 11:31 AM / IP Logged  
Never Ever Do d2d with avital you will have major issues at sometime! Always W2W lower end units
shortcircuit161 
Silver - Posts: 556
Silver spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: August 29, 2010
Location: United States
Posted: December 12, 2012 at 9:36 PM / IP Logged  
The Avital 4103 only works in 1-way D2D which means it can send info to the module but can't receive signals back from the module in D2D.
It won't learn tach in D2D. You can (like others have mentioned) go W2W to the DBALL and get tach that way.   The only useful D2D option that Avital will feed to the DBALL is GWR and door locks.
Also, D2D has to be turned on for it to work properly. The red D2D port is defaulted to use with the Bitwriter programmer.
4x4ranger 
Member - Posts: 16
Member spacespace
Joined: December 06, 2012
Location: Wisconsin, United States
Posted: December 13, 2012 at 11:18 AM / IP Logged  

Okay...you have all convinced me not to use D2D with this unit! Its not much more work anyways. I appreciate all your input!

Going W2W, here is my wiring plan. Look correct?

Vehicle: 2003 Silverado 2500HD diesel

Remote Start: Avital 4103
Bypass Module: DBALL - programmed for my vehicle and turning heated seats on at 32 degrees

Remote Start harness

H1/1: ()Factory alarm disarm - N/A
H1/2: ()Factory rearm - N/A
H1/3: (+)Ignition out (to alarm) - N/A
H1/4: (-)Activation Input - N/A
H1/5: (-)Ground when locked - N/A
H1/6: (-)Horn Output – BLACK / YELLOW wire in steering column
H1/7: (-)Trunk Release Output - N/A
H1/8: Ground - To common ground
H1/9: (-) Light Flash – Connect to BCM, gray/black wire, pin B2. Also need to change jumper on remote start to negative.

4-pin satellite harness

1: (-) 200mA Status Output – to DBALL blue/white, GWR wire
2: (-) 200mA Accessory turn on – to DBALL WHITE/ black, (heated seats)
3: (-) 200mA second starter turn on – N/A
4: (-) 200mA third turn on – N/A

Heavy gauge relay wiring (all wires to truck ignition hraness)

1: (+) Output to Ignition Circuit – to pink ignition wire
2: (+) Output to Starter Circuit - to yellow ignition wire
3: (+) Output to Accessory Circuit - to orange ignition wire
4: (+) (30A) High Current 12 Input - to red ignition wire
5: (+) Programmable output for accessory or ignition – to white ignition wire
6: (+) (30A) High Current 12 Input - to red ignition wire

Door lock harness

1: (-) Unlock output – to DBALL blue wire
2: N/A
3: (-) Lock output – to DBALL green wire

Remote start harness (H2)

H2/1: (-) Neutral safety switch input – Auto trans, so to ground
H2/2: Tachometer wire – to DBALL violet/white (or should I skip DBALL and wire remote start to instrument cluster tach (white) wire?)
H2/3: (+) Brake switch shutdown – to white brake pedal wire
H2/4: (-) Hood pin switch - to hood pin switch
H2/5 (-) 200ma 2nd status/rear defogger output - N/A

DBALL harness

Violet yellow to violet Pin 2 on OBD connector
Red to red ignition wire (same as heavy guage 4 or 6)
Black to chassis ground

The DBALL wiring diagram is asking for a front door status input from the remote start. Where do I hook that up?

kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,788
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: December 13, 2012 at 11:26 AM / IP Logged  
Actually the DB-ALL is supplying a Door Status output signal to the R/S unit.  It is used for alarm system purposes.  Your Avital 4103 R/S w/Keyless Entry system does not need it.
Soldering is fun!
4x4ranger 
Member - Posts: 16
Member spacespace
Joined: December 06, 2012
Location: Wisconsin, United States
Posted: December 15, 2012 at 7:18 PM / IP Logged  
I'm close! But am having a issue. It's hooked up like a have in my last post, and it starts, but dies immediately. I've increased the crank time...no help. I've also changed the engine checking option...changed it to tach..no change. Then I changed it to off. No change. I feel like its a issue with the dball, but I've programmed it like the instructions say. Any ideas?
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