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2003-2006 GMC Yukon Remote Start Pictorial


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kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,489
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Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: New York, United States
Posted: December 16, 2016 at 8:07 AM / IP Logged  
@prince504
No, I have never used a CS800-s as a add-on R/S system. I have used the (-) and (+) Trigger Start input wires to test a system occasionally.    An easy way to test a system if you're under the dash and don't have the remotes handy or a way to troubleshoot a possible antenna / remote problem and verify that the remote start function is still operational.
Soldering is fun!
tyotteson 
Member - Posts: 1
Member spacespace
Joined: December 21, 2017
Location: Nevada, United States
Posted: December 21, 2017 at 4:06 PM / IP Logged  
Thank you for your detailed instructions. I was wondering if you might be able to provide details for my specific R/S system.
I purchased a MPC Remote Start & Keyless Entry (Manufacturer Part Number: 0770) for my 2005 Yukon. Is this a decent R/S system? I have never installed a R/S, but I am fairly technically inclined and it seems pretty easy, but I want to ensure there isn't anything I might not know that could cause me issues.
Thanks
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,489
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: New York, United States
Posted: December 21, 2017 at 6:04 PM / IP Logged  
That system should be a piece of cake to install. If I'm looking at right one, it's basically
a Crimestopper RS4 system with the Fortin INT-SL bypass module, all pre-wired and ready to
go. I'm not a big fan of the T-Tap connections so I would cut them off and solder everything.
I would also go with a tilt switch as the hood pin to prevent rust and reduce issues if you live
in a northen area where they salt the roads during winter. Other than that, you should be good
to go.
As for the Crimestopper brand, I don't use them so I really don't have any reliability data on
them. We do have some forum members that use them, so perhaps they can chime in with info and
install insights for you.
Soldering is fun!
motorsportsx 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: January 21, 2018
Location: Arkansas, United States
Posted: January 25, 2018 at 10:35 PM / IP Logged  
Hey guys. Thanks for the pics but I'm still a bit confused on which power wires from my R/S go to constant vs switched.
I have a viper 5906v and a ADS-ALCA flashed with gm firmware in D2D mode.
The viper instructions ask for the following
2 - "red/black" - Fused 12v accesory/starter input
5 - "red" fused 12v ignition 1 input
9 - "red/white" fused 12v ignition 2 / flex relay input.
I'm not sure what starter input and flex relay input are listed for. Are all 3 of these just constant 12v? Or do the ignitions need to come on when the ignition is on?
Then in regards to ignition 2.   There is an ignition 2 wire on the heavy guage harness and also on the 24 pin harness.    Do i not need to use the 24 pin variant? (So i would use the pink and pink/white On the heavy guage harness for ignition 1 and 2)
Any help is greatly appreciated.
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,489
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: New York, United States
Posted: January 26, 2018 at 3:19 AM / IP Logged  
There are four +12V input power wires on your Viper 5906V. There is a Red wire in the H1 plug and the H3 plug has
Red, Red/Black and Red/White wires, all with fuses. There are two +12V power wires in the truck, Red and Red/White
as shown on Page 1, that you connect these Viper wires to. Split the load between them, 2 Vipers wires to each.
If you look closely at the Viper install guide, the wires are usually marked with their polarity. Specifically, the
PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT on the 24 pin connector is marked as a (-) output and would have a disastrous
affect on the Viper if connected to the vehicles thick Pink +12V Ignition1 or thick White Ignition2 wire. Those thin
(-) 200mA ignition output wires are typically used to control external relays. You would use the (-) 200mA Accessory
Output wire to control an external relay if you wished to power the trucks Brown ACC2 wire. I would suggest making a
wire connection list / chart of your Viper system to vehicle wires and posting it for member review and input prior
to install.
Soldering is fun!
motorsportsx 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: January 21, 2018
Location: Arkansas, United States
Posted: January 26, 2018 at 7:42 PM / IP Logged  
This is very helpful, thanks. So I will connect the 2 viper reds to the truck reds. And the 2 viper red/white to the truck red whites.   
I will post my complete setup later this weekend for review. Thanks very much for the help.   I was thinking id need to run powers out to the battery. Lol. By the way..just Curious.. is a t-harness worth buying? Does it make all the taps for you
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,489
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: New York, United States
Posted: January 27, 2018 at 6:49 AM / IP Logged  
I don't believe there is a T-Harness available for this vehicle that can make all the necessary connections.
There are many connectors involved from ignition wires to door locks, horn, alarm, brakes, OBD2 and parking
lights that would be needed. Most all of the wires are easily accessible so removing some insulation and
making the manual, soldered connections isn't too difficult.
Soldering is fun!
motorsportsx 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: January 21, 2018
Location: Arkansas, United States
Posted: January 28, 2018 at 7:57 PM / IP Logged  
Ok. How the heck do i get this thing in auto transmission Mode? Lolevrything is working but remote start. 7 flashes.
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,489
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: New York, United States
Posted: January 29, 2018 at 7:06 AM / IP Logged  
You must change a program menu option. See Menu 3, Item 1. Set it to Option 2 for a
vehicle with automatic transmission. The procedure is detailed on Page 2 of this guide :
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=1375
Soldering is fun!
wmellott 
Member - Posts: 2
Member spacespace
Joined: November 19, 2018
Location: Connecticut, United States
Posted: December 01, 2018 at 11:05 AM / IP Logged  
Question as this has now been stumping me on/off for 2 weeks
2003 Suburban
RS - PS01-G5 originally with Idatalink ADS-TBSL-PL (we had used the 3 wire connection, Red, Blk, Blue/Wht to PS01-G5 Y/Blk)
We could not get the ADS-TBSL-PL to program - so ultimately we figured NG out of box
so we replaced it with the ADS-ALCA currently using the data cable (instead of the 3 wire) + Orange to ODB2 and Pink to Ign Pink
Same issue I can not get the ALCA to program - just goes red
I am fairly certain data at the OBD2 port on Purple is good - as my only way to test is via my ODB2 scanner which is reading data
Any ideas
Thanks
Bill
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