transponder bypass

Think I agree with Frank on this one ( even if Fortin Tech Support said differently ).  The Fortin INT-SL+ install

guide is listed as only doing the transponder bypass function for the 2001 - 2003 Durango.  The install guide confirms this "transponder bypass" only capability.  Install Connection Diagram 6 - without Data-Link shows more wires than necessary for your Durango install.  You would only need to connect the following :INT-SL+    R/S DurangoPink   Light GREEN/ Black  cut   car sideBlue         IGN3 GWRPurple          Purple / YELLOWYellow          Light GREEN/ Black   cut    car sideYellow/Black Light GREEN/ Black   cut    ign switch side

Plus the Plan 2 connections :

Red to +12V constantBlack to chassis ground

The current connections from the R/S to the Durango for locks, etc stay in place.

Soldering is fun!

I hear ya........I tried to explain that the vehicle fit guide only listed transponder and tach but either he did not understand or...........

It would be nice to have just connected from the remote to the bypass for doors, trigger, etc.. Much cleaner.

In order to get locks control also, you will need a different module altogether. The relay setup for the door locks is fairly simple. If you preferred a module that goes it all, you can get an iDatalink ADS-DL or ADS-ALCA. There are a bit more pricey and require a dealer account to flash them for your vehicle. Also, I am not a big fan of Xpresskit modules, but you can get a DB-ALL that can also control the door locks. You can also look thru the door locks section on this forum for info on setting up 2 relays with resistors for your locks if you wish to use the INT-SL+ and wire up the locks yourself. I've been installing for years and this one is not that tough if you do your research and take your time.

I agree. When i said it would be nice, I meant that i can see that doing newer cars with newer remote starts have a different approach that looks much easier. I actually did wire up the door locks using relays and resistors. My only issue there is it seems to be controversial if the car has a factory alarm so i am not sure if I should use the arm/disarm for the door locks or the door lock/unlock wire. It uses different resistors. It's a long story but in short the dealer says my VIN says I have a forced entry factory alarm and I have no indication of one but I am not sure if there is a test for that type. Nothing i do sets it off.

So I'm good but you can see, being new at this how conflicting the information coming in can be, with the alarm and now with Fortin themselves, which has made this tougher than it should have been....for me anyway.

Thanks for your help.

I agree a lot of newer cars are simpler since the bypass module controls half to most of everything else leaving only a handful of connections from the remote starter itself. Your vehicle is fairly simple though in my opinion. To check for a factory alarm (if you haven't tried this already) is lower the driver's side window and press lock twice on the factory fob OR press the lock button inside the door with the door open, then close the door. Wait 2 minutes and then, (without using the factory keyfob or the door lock switch), unlock the door from the inside of the door and open the door. If the horn starts to blare, you have a factory alarm. Otherwise you don't. If you do have a factory alarm, you would use the arm/disarm wires to control the factory alarm which also controls the door locks. If you have the door locks already connected and they work ok without sounding any alarms when you unlock and enter the vehicle, you can leave it connected the way it is. I understand the confusion between the dealer, Fortin and all the wiring involved. I personally feel that learning thru experience from others that do it on a daily basis is the best way to learn and get it done. The VIN may show it has the factory alarm but it could have been removed at some point. The dealer wouldn't know it unless they tested it (assuming they know how). Good Luck!

Yes I agree completely that there is no substitution for experience here. I learned sooo much from this first install that car wiring doesn't scare me in the least anymore. Looking back, yes, it is simple, but that came at a price (a lot of time and research to learn), but it was a labor of love because I enjoy this type of stuff.

I tried testing for the fact alarm as you said already and no horn went off. The thing is I cannot unlock the doors with the remote. This was the last thing that happened along with the realization that the coil wrap bypass didn't work so I figured I would fix the transponder bypass problem first and then troubleshoot the unlock. So once the INT-SL+ comes in, I will install it and see what happens. I'm hoping maybe the lack of a bypass and the unlock not working are related.

By the way, i called and talked to another Fortin tech support guy and he confirmed that for this car, only bypassing is available. I didn't doubt you, it's just my nature to resolve all questions in my mind before continuing forward.

Thanks again for your help 

I was wondering if anyone here understands how a remote start used on on a car with one lock/unlock wire puts out seperate (-) trigger out each for lock and unlock and knows which relay to power when the hand remote only has one button both for lock and unlock. Does it know if the vehicle is locked or unlocked and therefore does the opposite when you press the one button? If so, how does it know the status.

I'm just curious and i am hoping that any help here will help me troubleshoot my inability to unlock the door with the remote.

Thanks, Jim

You might be asking two questions. 

The R/S system outputs a Door Lock command pulse on one wire and the Unlock command pulse

on another wire.  The 451M module ( or two SPDT relays with resistors ) accepts these two inputs and they control two separate relays.  The outputs from the two relays are connected to the one vehicle door lock wire.

Can't speak for your R/S system ( never used that brand ) but with Bulldog Security and Compustar

systems, it is just a simple flip-flop arrangement.  The R/S brain keeps track of what it did last anddoes the opposite on the next button press.  It does not pay attention to the factory FOB's or thevehicle's current condition.  i.e.  If you used the aftermarket FOB and it unlocked the doors, then when you exited the car, you used the cars' door lock button to lock the car, the next time you you used theaftermarket FOB's button it would be a lock command, which wouldn't do much because the carwas already locked.   I have used those systems and you learn to pay attention to the Parking Lightflashes ( and possibly horn beeps ) and end up exclusively using the aftermarket FOB's.

Soldering is fun!

Ok thanks...I figured it was something like that. So what you are saying is that I may have to hit the button twice at times because of what it did last and what I may have done in between such as lock the door with the lock button.

With that info understood, it makes me think that if hitting it twice doesn't work then maybe the resistor value is off. I say this because when I installed it, it was low but I paid no attention to it figuring the value could be +/- 5%.

Do you happen to know how sensitive those resistance values are? I'll have to check the actual numbers when I get a chance to work on this during the weekend.

Thanks for the explanation.........Jim

Here is the info from DEI :

Lock is negative trigger thru a 820 ohm resistor. Unlock is negative trigger thru a 330 ohm resistor. MUST use relays.

With those values, I would try to stay within 2%.  I actually measure the resistors and pick the one closest to the listed

value.   Luckily, I save the unused resistors from the DEI 451M kits and those exact values are included.  You are looking for :330 = Orange, Orange, Brown, Gold820 = Gray, Red, Brown, Gold

You can also make your own by combining a 180 ohm and a 150 ohm in series ( 330 ohms ).

Soldering is fun!