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i think my viper rs is draining my battery


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howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: February 25, 2013 at 4:46 PM / IP Logged  
WRONG Never ever use self tappers. It will work loose in about 4 months.
Are there any relays in this install and is the 12V+ at the coil, 85 or 86 constant live or constant with either alarm on or alarm off?
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: February 25, 2013 at 4:53 PM / IP Logged  
Correct procedure is to locate an existing bolt or tapped thread, usually M6 (10mm spanner head) remove it, remove the body paint from around the hole then crimp using an M6 (1/4") ring using a compound action crimper (not a $5 home depot product).
DEI says don't use existing grounding bolts but I've personally never seen why not, if it's good enough for the car maker.......
Either my last post or subject to seeing their install their wiring wasn't correct.
The truth is Kenny and I can't really help it's between you and your installers.
Frankly if a customer has a problem, I'd want them to contact me first.
The very fact that you've examined some of it and maybe played with the by-pass wiring would be grounds to negate the warrantee.
ralph_t 
Member - Posts: 39
Member spacespace
Joined: January 19, 2009
Location: Michigan, United States
Posted: February 25, 2013 at 4:54 PM / IP Logged  
howie ll wrote:
WRONG Never ever use self tappers. It will work loose in about 4 months.
Hmm. Seems pretty well secured. But I will bring it up with the installer. I aint changing his main connections. This thing is under warranty and I dont want it to be apparent that I worked on it.
howie ll wrote:
Are there any relays in this install and is the 12V+ at the coil, 85 or 86 constant live or constant with either alarm on or alarm off?
There are no relays in this install.
2005 GMC Envoy XL
4.2L I6
ralph_t 
Member - Posts: 39
Member spacespace
Joined: January 19, 2009
Location: Michigan, United States
Posted: February 25, 2013 at 5:01 PM / IP Logged  
howie ll wrote:
Correct procedure is to locate an existing bolt or tapped thread, usually M6 (10mm spanner head) remove it, remove the body paint from around the hole then crimp using an M6 (1/4") ring using a compound action crimper (not a $5 home depot product).
DEI says don't use existing grounding bolts but I've personally never seen why not, if it's good enough for the car maker.......
Either my last post or subject to seeing their install their wiring wasn't correct.
The truth is Kenny and I can't really help it's between you and your installers.
Frankly if a customer has a problem, I'd want them to contact me first.
The very fact that you've examined some of it and maybe played with the by-pass wiring would be grounds to negate the warrantee.
Yeah I have read the manual and am familiar with the proper grounding proceedure.
Should I call DEI and report the shop?
They wouldnt know that I played with anything.
So I am kind of confused. Earlier you said to tell the installer my findings and tell them the problem is the bypass module. Now your telling me not to mess with anything.
Screw it, I will just bring it in. This friggin thing will never get fixed with those monkey over at the shop. But I appreciate all your help.
2005 GMC Envoy XL
4.2L I6
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: February 25, 2013 at 5:02 PM / IP Logged  
Locate the fuse at H1/1, remove it and with your red probe towards the source and the black towards the R/S, place the probes in the fuse holder either side.
Set your meter to DC 20 amps, it shouldn't be drawing more that 25 mAMP when on, about 5 when off.
ralph_t 
Member - Posts: 39
Member spacespace
Joined: January 19, 2009
Location: Michigan, United States
Posted: February 25, 2013 at 5:07 PM / IP Logged  
howie ll wrote:
Locate the fuse at H1/1, remove it and with your red probe towards the source and the black towards the R/S, place the probes in the fuse holder either side.
Set your meter to DC 20 amps, it shouldn't be drawing more that 25 mAMP when on, about 5 when off.
doodie, why disnt I think of that. Thanks.
2005 GMC Envoy XL
4.2L I6
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: February 25, 2013 at 5:08 PM / IP Logged  
I've just been over this whole thread.
You mentioned the by-pass module.
DEI won't be interested, take it back to the shop.
ralph_t 
Member - Posts: 39
Member spacespace
Joined: January 19, 2009
Location: Michigan, United States
Posted: February 25, 2013 at 6:06 PM / IP Logged  
howie ll wrote:
Locate the fuse at H1/1, remove it and with your red probe towards the source and the black towards the R/S, place the probes in the fuse holder either side.
Set your meter to DC 20 amps, it shouldn't be drawing more that 25 mAMP when on, about 5 when off.
Well the XK01 is connected before any fuses. Isnt it supposed to have one?
Anyway at the ignition fuse which feeds the constant 12 volts which the XK01 runs off of I get 30 milliamps with it plugged in and 10 milliamps with it unplugged. I bet if I disconnect the brain thats where the other 10 amps is going.
2005 GMC Envoy XL
4.2L I6
ralph_t 
Member - Posts: 39
Member spacespace
Joined: January 19, 2009
Location: Michigan, United States
Posted: February 25, 2013 at 6:07 PM / IP Logged  
Excuse me . I meant 10 mA
2005 GMC Envoy XL
4.2L I6
ralph_t 
Member - Posts: 39
Member spacespace
Joined: January 19, 2009
Location: Michigan, United States
Posted: February 25, 2013 at 6:08 PM / IP Logged  
The relay center for the Viper draws no amps at rest.
2005 GMC Envoy XL
4.2L I6
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