ford escape 2008 rs talk about noob

Hello there, I'm an avid DIY guy, sometimes to a fault. Hopefully you all can give me a hand. I bought the Avital 4103 Remote Start with the PKALL D2D bypass module. I'm hooking it up to a 2008 Ford Escape as per title. Here the connections I made: H1/1 Light GREEN/ Black     Factory Alarm Disarm  Not Connected H1/2 GREEN / WHITE Factory Rearm       Not Connected H1/3 Yellow        Ignition out to Alarm      Connected to Pink Heavy Gauge H1/4 WHITE/ Blue   Activation Input Not Connected     H1/5 Orange       Ground when Locked  Not Connected H1/6 Brown  Horn Output   Connected to Brown Wire at Ignition Harness H1/7 RED / White     Trunk Output   Not Connected H1/8 BlackGround Not Connected H1/9 WhiteLights (+) connected to VIO/WHT Drivers kick panel Heavy Gauge Relay Pink      Ignition circuit wired to WHITE/ Orange cable Purple   Starter Circuit wired to Blue/White cable Orange Accessory Circuit wired to Violet/Green Red 12v wired to Blue/Red Pink/White NOT CONNECTED Red 12v wired to Blue/Red PKALL BYPASS MODULE: Connected to wires 3&4 of Ignition Barrel TX Cable connected to wire 3 RX Cable connected to wire 4 I connected what cables I thought I needed and tried to program the remote start, Reading the Manual hasn't helped and I understand there is still more to go: Hood pin switch - Seen installs online and on here without? Not sure if I need to use it. Brake switch shutdown wire connected to PURPLE / White at Brake switch, is this the right place? Tachometer, do I need it? the 2008 Ford escape has Factory anti-grind so I'm assuming I do not need to connect. Thanks so much for looking, I would really appreciate the help and expertise of someone much more qualified than myself! 1998 Acura TL 2.5

Found 2 problems already Need to connect black ground to a ground And disconnect yellow from pink its not needed

you really dont need to hook up horn. also use the negative parking light wire at headlight switch getting positive wire is harder then it sounds there are numerous wires in drivers kick panel that are that color brake wire is at the correct place you dont need tach just set it for voltage sense and it will work fine just set crank time at liek 4 sec or something will guarantee it starts also dont forget to ground the NSS wire BLACK/ white

Hood Pin switch should be connected.  It is a nice safety feature.   

While I am not a big XpressKit user, I believe you will also need to connect the following wires on the PKALL ( D2D only supplies the power and ground )  :

PKALL Pink Ignition wire to the 4103 heavy Pink wire ( that also connects to the Escapes IGN1 wire )PKALL Blue/White (-) When Running wire to the  4103 Blue Status Output wire on the 4 Pin Satellite harness.

And last but not least, you will need two, unique, non-clone keys to program the bypass module to the vehicle.

Soldering is fun!

Thanks for all the help. I have encountered 2 problems. 1. The car starts for about ten seconds, then turns off and retries to start a couple seconds later. 2. The Heat also doesn't come on. (or cold air for that matter) These are my current connections H1/1 Light GREEN/ Black     Factory Alarm Disarm  Not Connected (N.C.) H1/2 GREEN / WHITE Factory Rearm       NC H1/3 Yellow        Ignition out to Alarm  NC H1/4 WHITE/ Blue   Activation Input Not Connected      H1/5 Orange       Ground when Locked  Not Connected H1/6 Brown  Horn Output   Connected to Brown Wire at Ignition Harness H1/7 RED / White     Trunk Output   Not Connected H1/8 Black  Ground Connected to common Ground     H1/9 WhiteLights (+)   connected to VIO/WHT Drivers kick panel Heavy Gauge Relay Pink      Ignition circuit wired to WHITE/ Orange cable Purple   Starter Circuit wired to Blue/White cable Orange Accessory Circuit wired to Violet/Green Red 12v wired to Blue/Red Pink/White NOT CONNECTED Red 12v wired to Blue/Red ****NOTE****** The two red 12V wires are wired to the same Blue/Red cable. Should this be a problem? PKALL Connections PKALL Pink Ignition wire to the 4103 heavy Pink wire ( that also connects to the Escapes IGN1 wire ) ? I connect to the heavy pink wire and what other wire? connected blue/white pkall to status blue/white Thanks again to those who replied! I'm excited to get this thing working. 1998 Acura TL 2.5

try setting unit for virtual tach and learning it. its either shutting down from tach signal or the bypass isnt wired correctly

If the Blue/Red +12V constant wire that both 4103 Red wires are connected to is thin gauge, I would move them to the

YELLOW/RED (+) (125AMP) wire @ SMART JUNCTION BOX BLACK 1-PIN PLUG.

The PKALL Pink wire connects to the 4103 heavy Pink Ignition1 wire that continues to the Escapes WHITE/ Orange Ignition

wire.

Running an actual Tach wire connection and programming the 4103 for Tach Mode is the most consistantly reliable way

to control a remote start-up.   Here is some Tach wire info : TACH   Any wire NOT BLUE (AC)    @ Any FUEL INJECTOR Tachometer    grn/blu, gry/yel, pur/gry, yel/org, brn, or grn/wh (ac)     @ any fuel injector, 2 pin plug, pin 1

Soldering is fun!

You will need to remove the center console to access the heavy gauge yellow/red 12v wire @ the smart junction box. First thing, pry up the chrome piece around the shifter know. Work it evenly from side to side. Next remove the screws on the side of the console, one at the back and I think two at the front (same for both sides). Next you will need to access two screws at the front of the console. To get to those, I believe it's the trim for the usb/ 12v socket that needs to be removed then disconnect connectors behind it. Now you should have access to the 2 screws holding the center column. I don't recall any screws inside the center column box but remove if there are. I think that should be all the screws. Now the center column should come out easily, be sure to watch out for any harness plugged to the center column. The smart junction box is now visible on the floor facing the passenger side. Tip for soldering to

Tip for soldering to the heavy gauge yellow/red 12v wire. Use a mini soldering torch. Get a piece of hard paper/card board and wrap it in foil, you can use that as a heat/flame shield to protect everything else. Don't let the wire get too hot for too long.

I've removed the center console with no issue, but looking for the Black 1 pin plug Yellow/Red 12v. I found the yellow/red 7 pin plug but assume this is not it. Thanks!1998 Acura TL 2.5