the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
icon

rotary headlight switch wanted


Post ReplyPost New Topic
< Prev Topic Next Topic >
oldspark 
Gold - Posts: 4,913
Gold spacespace
Joined: November 03, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: May 14, 2013 at 11:50 AM / IP Logged  
The terminals need only control 86; the 85s are all to GND (assuming +12V switching).
Your diode connection is fine. Since you are only driving relays (coils usually a max of 250mA), any 1N400x diode will do (1A rating) - I suggest the common 1N4004 (or 4007) as these can be used to quench coil spikes (not that you need that, but for the future...).
Switch wise, I was thinking more of common rotaries. Google-images "rotary switches" for typical types - eg, as per Jaycar's rotary switches (~$4) or led-switch-Rotary Switch (~$1.15) though those sealed Jaycars only handle 150mA whereas the other led-switch unsealed units handle 0.5A typical.
But they are solder types which can be inconvenient in vehicles - especially if it needs changing or replacing. (I'll usually used intermediate connectors and prepare a spare plug-in replacement for critical circuits).
Keep in mind that terminal that handles parkers and beams drives TWO relays.
If happy with your suggestion, get that since they seem to handle 10A or 20A - more than enough to drive several relays.
I suggest a self-resetting circuit breaker for the main beams (~$10 for up to 50A capacity with stud terminals, or 30A capacity for ATS (blade) fuse types).
Ah - the problem of greefields wiring - so many options (and hence often confusion and "mission impossibles" for novices, and me too! But the advantage is... so many options.
steve392 
Member - Posts: 17
Member spacespace
Joined: March 23, 2013
Location: New Jersey, United States
Posted: May 14, 2013 at 2:38 PM / IP Logged  
oldspark,
Thanks for the guidance, it's much appreciated. I think I'm on the right track now....
Steve
oldspark 
Gold - Posts: 4,913
Gold spacespace
Joined: November 03, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: May 14, 2013 at 6:12 PM / IP Logged  
You beat me....
I was thinking of striking out my switch alternatives. My dislikes for them are the low switching capability of the sealed units (and plastic shaft, and maybe lack of "feel" - ie lightly sprung), and the unsealed nature of the "open wafer" types, but that depends on its environment (dirt, moisture) and chances of being touched by other conductors.
And then there's the need to get a suitable knob, though that choice may be an advantage.
Vehicle wiring can be a dilemma. Keep it simple using heavier switches, or use relays etc?
Relay-less means larger voltage drops and heavier wiring (to the dash etc). And high current diodes and their voltage drop when using those "combination" tricks (such as beams powering parkers).
Relays mean more wiring but much lighter wiring in the cabin. And relays are easier to replace than switches (assuming better location, and sockets or terminals (soldering direct to relay terminals is risky).
Relays also mean a much larger selection of switches (or even electronic control).
FYI - I often write how I don't like even big (automotive) switches to carry more than a few Amps. F.ex, I've seen 16A switches fail (melt!) within months powering a mere and occasional 8A fan. My floor dip switch failed after 23 years. (That's a bit of a jest, though its melting nature under my bare foot was not much of a joke.)
Ween 
Platinum - Posts: 1,355
Platinum spacespace
Joined: August 01, 2004
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: May 14, 2013 at 8:00 PM / IP Logged  
hi,
check out NKK switches...TS and HS16 series.
used a HS16 in a 3 pole 3 position configuration to replace a not available at the time wiper switch on a 60's chrysler product...in custom dash.
mark
steve392 
Member - Posts: 17
Member spacespace
Joined: March 23, 2013
Location: New Jersey, United States
Posted: May 20, 2013 at 9:54 AM / IP Logged  
Thanks to all who answered this post. I've one follow-up question regarding the headlight circuit. As mentioned earlier, I have a Painless Wiring harness that has a 30 amp ATO fuse in the fuse block, direct +12v un-switched, that is to be used for the headlight circuit only.
Mention was made that I should include a self-resetting type circuit breaker in the circuit. Is this in addition to the 30 amp fuse, or just use one or the other? I would think that if I used both in series the fuse would blow before the breaker would trip.
A clarification would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Steve
Ween 
Platinum - Posts: 1,355
Platinum spacespace
Joined: August 01, 2004
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: May 20, 2013 at 6:31 PM / IP Logged  
Yes,
You could use a self resetting circuit breaker in the fuse panel for the headlight circuit, for the headlight relay power feed.
The Painless kit includes a fused circuit for the parking/tail lights?
I would use that circuit for your feed for your headlight switch (power to the relay coils as well as the lights themselves)
mark
oldspark 
Gold - Posts: 4,913
Gold spacespace
Joined: November 03, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: May 20, 2013 at 6:34 PM / IP Logged  
You never have series protection for vehicle distribution (excluding downstream path splitting and the last equipment protection fuse).
The main reason for self resetters is safety in critical circuits.
EG - a temporary short may blow your headlight fuse(s) permanently. A self resetting CB will reset & re-light - maybe before you hit the wall or run off the road.
FYI - the breaker may trip before the fuse, but the fuse will have taken a thermal hit which compromises its life.
steve392 
Member - Posts: 17
Member spacespace
Joined: March 23, 2013
Location: New Jersey, United States
Posted: May 21, 2013 at 6:40 AM / IP Logged  
Yes, the Painless Harness has a separate 20 amp fused circuit for the inst. panel/tail light circuit. I will use that to supply power to the headlight switch before going to each individual relay.
I also found an ATO style 30 amp circuit breaker that I can plug into the fuse panel, replacing the fuse, for the headlight circuit.
Thanks again,
Steve
Page of 2

Sorry, you can NOT post a reply.
This topic is closed.

  Printable version Printable version Post ReplyPost New Topic
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot create polls in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

  •  
Search the12volt.com
Follow the12volt.com Follow the12volt.com on Facebook
Tuesday, February 7, 2023 • Copyright © 1999-2023 the12volt.com, All Rights Reserved Privacy Policy & Use of Cookies
Disclaimer: *All information on this site ( the12volt.com ) is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.

Secured by Sectigo
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
Support the12volt.com
Top
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer