rotary headlight switch wanted

The terminals need only control 86; the 85s are all to GND (assuming +12V switching). Your diode connection is fine. Since you are only driving relays (coils usually a max of 250mA), any 1N400x diode will do (1A rating) - I suggest the common 1N4004 (or 4007) as these can be used to quench coil spikes (not that you need that, but for the future...). Switch wise, I was thinking more of common rotaries. Google-images "rotary switches" for typical types - eg, as per Jaycar's rotary switches (~$4) or led-switch-Rotary Switch (~$1.15) though those sealed Jaycars only handle 150mA whereas the other led-switch unsealed units handle 0.5A typical. But they are solder types which can be inconvenient in vehicles - especially if it needs changing or replacing. (I'll usually used intermediate connectors and prepare a spare plug-in replacement for critical circuits). Keep in mind that terminal that handles parkers and beams drives TWO relays. If happy with your suggestion, get that since they seem to handle 10A or 20A - more than enough to drive several relays. I suggest a self-resetting circuit breaker for the main beams (~$10 for up to 50A capacity with stud terminals, or 30A capacity for ATS (blade) fuse types). Ah - the problem of greefields wiring - so many options (and hence often confusion and "mission impossibles" for novices, and me too! But the advantage is... so many options.

oldspark, Thanks for the guidance, it's much appreciated. I think I'm on the right track now.... Steve

You beat me.... I was thinking of striking out my switch alternatives. My dislikes for them are the low switching capability of the sealed units (and plastic shaft, and maybe lack of "feel" - ie lightly sprung), and the unsealed nature of the "open wafer" types, but that depends on its environment (dirt, moisture) and chances of being touched by other conductors. And then there's the need to get a suitable knob, though that choice may be an advantage. Vehicle wiring can be a dilemma. Keep it simple using heavier switches, or use relays etc? Relay-less means larger voltage drops and heavier wiring (to the dash etc). And high current diodes and their voltage drop when using those "combination" tricks (such as beams powering parkers). Relays mean more wiring but much lighter wiring in the cabin. And relays are easier to replace than switches (assuming better location, and sockets or terminals (soldering direct to relay terminals is risky). Relays also mean a much larger selection of switches (or even electronic control). FYI - I often write how I don't like even big (automotive) switches to carry more than a few Amps. F.ex, I've seen 16A switches fail (melt!) within months powering a mere and occasional 8A fan. My floor dip switch failed after 23 years. (That's a bit of a jest, though its melting nature under my bare foot was not much of a joke.)

hi, check out NKK switches...TS and HS16 series. used a HS16 in a 3 pole 3 position configuration to replace a not available at the time wiper switch on a 60's chrysler product...in custom dash. mark

Thanks to all who answered this post. I've one follow-up question regarding the headlight circuit. As mentioned earlier, I have a Painless Wiring harness that has a 30 amp ATO fuse in the fuse block, direct +12v un-switched, that is to be used for the headlight circuit only. Mention was made that I should include a self-resetting type circuit breaker in the circuit. Is this in addition to the 30 amp fuse, or just use one or the other? I would think that if I used both in series the fuse would blow before the breaker would trip. A clarification would be appreciated. Thanks, Steve

Yes, You could use a self resetting circuit breaker in the fuse panel for the headlight circuit, for the headlight relay power feed. The Painless kit includes a fused circuit for the parking/tail lights? I would use that circuit for your feed for your headlight switch (power to the relay coils as well as the lights themselves) mark

You never have series protection for vehicle distribution (excluding downstream path splitting and the last equipment protection fuse). The main reason for self resetters is safety in critical circuits. EG - a temporary short may blow your headlight fuse(s) permanently. A self resetting CB will reset & re-light - maybe before you hit the wall or run off the road. FYI - the breaker may trip before the fuse, but the fuse will have taken a thermal hit which compromises its life.

Yes, the Painless Harness has a separate 20 amp fused circuit for the inst. panel/tail light circuit. I will use that to supply power to the headlight switch before going to each individual relay. I also found an ATO style 30 amp circuit breaker that I can plug into the fuse panel, replacing the fuse, for the headlight circuit. Thanks again, Steve