honda civic 2012, viper 424, adsalca

Hello, I am in need of confirming wiring for my Honda Civic 2012 for remote start with the Viper 4204/Python 424 and iDataLink's ADS-AL-CA using D2D wiring. I have done my research on DBALL and have read many bad reviews about difficulty in remote starting. I have proposed the following for wiring the Honda Civic 2012, as I cannot find an official post about it on https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/vehiclewiring/1/yeard/Honda.html. Please suggest and correct: IMMOBILIZER First, flash to DBI-AL(DL)-HA3 (1.4). Installation Guide: http://cdncontent2.idatalink.com/corporate/Content/Manuals/DL-HA3/DBI-AL(DL)-HA3-EN_20130305.pdf Using Installation Type 2, Immobilizer side ~~ Car side Pink Ignition input ~~ White 7 pin 2 Yellow @ Ignition cylinder BROWN / Red CanH ~~ White 7 pin 4 Pink @ Ignition cylinder BROWN / Yellow CanL ~~ White 7 pin 3 Blue @ Ignition cylinder ORANGE / Black Key Data ~~ White 7 pin 6 LtGreen @ Ignition cylinder Blue/Yel shorted to WHITE/ Black on immobilizer WHITE/ red unlock ~~ unlock (-) on driver door White lock ~~ lock (-) on driver door Blue/red ground ~~ GND Purple / YELLOW ground ~~ GND Apparently, the door harness wiring is required because the car will ignore keyless signals from the bypass once started. I'm not sure whether the door harness should be controlled by the bypass or starter. REMOTE STARTER http://www.12voltdistributors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/Viper_4204V_Installation_Guide.pdf starter side ~~ car side H1/1 red ~~ connected to white wire, pin 1, @ 5-Pin plug ignition switch H3/2 RED / white ~~ same as above H3/5 red ~~ same as above H3/8 RED / black ~~ same as above H1/2 black ~~ connected to chassis ground H3/3 orange accessory output ~~ orange wire, pin 4, @ 5-Pin plug ignition switch (to heater blower 1) H3/4 violet starter output ~~ yellow cut. to car H3/5 green starter input ~~ yellow cut. to key side, pin 5, @ 5-Pin plug ignition H3/7 pink/white relay output ~~ red wire, pin 3, @ 5-Pin plug ignition switch (to heater blower 2) Connect d2d link Set Viper to Flex Relay = ACC2 ( Menu 3, Item 8, Opt 2 ) Additional references: http://diagrams.marktoonen.nl/index.aspx?MakeID=3&ModelID=20426 https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~133242 https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=133831&DIR=P&fid=3 Thank you in advance to the person who confirms.

Assuming your Civic is auto trans... H1/5 WHITE PIN 30 of LIGHT FLASH RELAY     Set Jumper / Fuse to (-) and connect wire to Parking Lights Gray (-)      @ headlight switch, 12 pin plug, pin 8 I never do D2D, so not sure if D2D connects the EBrake to the Neutral Safety wire, but... H2/2 BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY INPUT to chassis ground if automatic transmission If the Civic does not have a Factory Alarm and Hood Pin then connect H2/17 GRAY (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (NC OR NO) to the hood pin supplied in the R/S kit. Here is some additional info on the door lock wires : Power Lock        Blue (-)        @ driver kick, door harness, 23 pin plug, pin 16    Power Unlock      Gray (-)        @ driver kick, door harness, 23 pin plug, pin 20 Not a big DEI person, so not sure if the R/S will automatically switch over to Engine Checking = Tach. You should do a Tach Learn and get a good response ( after the ADS AL CA is programmed ). Other than that, it looks good.Soldering is fun!

Thanks for the information Kreg. This is indeed an automatic transmission and does have factory alarm and hood pin. I have updated the wiring with your suggestions. Immobilizer side ~~ Car side WHITE/ red unlock ~~ Power Unlock, Gray (-), @ driver kick, door harness, 23 pin plug, pin 20 White lock ~~ Power Lock, Blue (-), @ driver kick, door harness, 23 pin plug, pin 16 REMOTE STARTER H1/5 WHITE PIN 30 of LIGHT FLASH RELAY     Set Jumper / Fuse to (-) and connect wire to Parking Lights Gray (-) @ headlight switch, 12 pin plug, pin 8 H2/2 BLACK/ White (-) Neutral Safety input GREEN/ red - e-break switch H2/4 Disarm - Green /Black ~~ Factory Alarm Disarm brown (driver door key unlock) driver kick, door harness, 23 pin plug, pin 14 H2/16 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT ~~ LT. GREEN (+) @ BRAKE PEDAL SWITCH, BLUE 4-PIN PLUG, PIN 1 H2/17 GRAY (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (NC OR NO) ~~ lt. blue - dash fuse box, 38 pin plug (C), pin 27 H2/24 Arm - Green / White ~~ Factory Alarm Arm pink (driver door key lock) driver kick, door harness, 23 pin plug, pin 23 Regarding your comment on DEI, what would you suggest as a better alternative for a remote start within a $100-200 budget.

The R/S system you have chosen is fine. As with all major brands, the big difficulty is the lack of support from the manufacturer for DIYers. They will not provide any Tech Support and will not honor the warranty on any product not installed by an authorized Directed dealer. They also limit availability of the full installation guides. Also, be aware that access to the iDatalink WEB site to flash the bypass module is restricted to authorized 12 Volt professionals. If you don't meet their qualifications, you must try to find a source that will supply a flashed bypass module. My mention of the D2D connection stems from issues encountered ( years ago ). Just for piece of mind, I still make all the connections between the R/S brain and the bypass module hardwired in the W2W method. Zero issues, 100% reliability and easy to test / troubleshoot if there is a problem. That being said, I have heard that the D2D comm is improving and you might get flawless service that way. Getting back to your Civic install, the ADS AL CA bypass module should handle the car's alarm system fine thru Data ( CAN Bus ) with no extra connections between the R/S and vehicle. That means H2/4 and H2/24 are unnecessary connections. Also the H2/17 Hood Pin and the H2/16 Brake connections can be deleted because those signals are supplied by the ADS bypass module and are handled by the D2D interface. The only one I'm not sure about is H2/2. I think it might be the EBrake D2D signal but you will have to test to be sure ( or go W2W and connect it that way ). Basically, all the Red dashed wires on the ADS AL CA with DBI-AL(DL)-HA3 firmware Type 2 install diagram are handled by the D2D connection. For me, going in W2W mode, I make all those connections and it is more logical to understand / see what is going on. I know where the Tach signal is coming from. I know that the Neutral Safety input is the EBrake signal from the ADS bypass module, the R/S's Brake input is from the ADS bypass module, etc. Additionally, I can put a Digital Multi Meter on any of those wires and verify correct operation ( Hood Pin status, for example ). The iDatalink bypass module is a good choice. Just remember to set the Install Mode first, then program it to the Civic. It has to be programmed and working properly to supply the R/S brain with the inputs it needs ( Tach, Brake, Door Status, etc ) and be able to take the R/S's commands ( Lock, Unlock, etc ) and send them on to the Civic.Soldering is fun!

Thanks for the extensive info. How do I link this page onto https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/vehiclewiring/1/yeard/Honda.html. so I can help others.

Good question. Perhaps one of the Moderators can help on that.Soldering is fun!

I'm having some trouble locating the 23-pin connector for power lock. I have removed the kick panel here: You can take a closer look at the connectors here:

Try to locate the actual door harness coming in to the DKP from the door thru the flexible rubber boot. Then follow that harness to the 23 pin connector mentioned in the wiring guides.   Sorry, I don't have a picture of that connector.Soldering is fun!

Ok, I found the 23 pin connector. The gray wire is power unlock. However, there's conflicting information. According to http://diagrams.marktoonen.nl/index.aspx?MakeID=3&ModelID=20426, the blue wire is power lock. According to http://www.xpresskit.com/DocumentDownload.aspx?documentid=7122&productid=461&firmwareid=2382, the pink wire is power lock (installation type 5). There is no documentation regarding pin number in idatalink's installation guide.

Interesting find. I don't use the DB-ALL bypass, so I can't comment on their module or the Type 5 diagram instructions. However, if you look closely at the included photo of the lock wires, you will see they have marked the Gray Unlock wire and the Blue Lock wire. I do use iDatalink modules and have found their information extremely accurate over the years.   Not to muddy the waters but here is a link to the EVO-ALL install guide for your Civic : https://ifar.ca/download/7751/preview.html They use the Gray and Blue wires and have a diagram of the wires location in the Blue connector ( see Connection 2 ). I believe proper testing will identify the wire ( I would be following the iDatalink guide ) and I would be looking for a Blue Lock wire, not Pink. If you need more info and are willing to spend a few bucks, try the Fortin WireColor service. They list 17 wires with 20 photos for the 2012 Civic. Here is a link : http://wirecolor.com/en/Soldering is fun!