2006 chevrolet trailblazer / python 5206p

If I have to the Python has a 2nd trigger wire to attach to tailgate....the other question I have is which ignition wire am I suppose to hook the INT-SL+ wire to? And what is the deal with only a Lock wire and not an Unlock...just unlock driver 1 and 2

The Fortin INT-SL+ is a nice module. It comes pre-loaded and all ready to go right out of the box. The DLPKGM is the same module but has DBI D2D support. You will need to wire it up in the W2W mode between the Python and the INT-SL+. If your Trailblazer has the Memory Seat option, you can have it set the seat position during a Unlock command by connecting the Pythons Unlock wire to either Unlock Driver1 or Unlock Driver2 wire at the INT-SL+ module. If you want to get fancy, you can do the other Unlock wire with an AUX to be able to go to the other memory seat position with an unlock. The INT-SL+ Pink Ignition wire can connect to the Pythons tick Pink Ignition1 output wire from the H3 harness. This thick Pink Python wire will continue to the Trailblazers Pink Ignition1 wire at the ignition switch harness. Not sure about the INT-SL+ Door Trigger output supplying info on all 4 doors. They don't mention it in the install guide but other full function bypass modules can only get the front doors. You will have to test. If necessary, you have the rear door trigger info to wire them in ( with 1N4001 diodes ).Soldering is fun!

Sounds great, wonder if I call their support would know if it covers the rest of the triggers. I just real want to avoid having to run extra wires to hook up the other triggers, I will if I have to but I was happy with the modules shortening install times. Somewhere I read that the previous module I was going to use would pick up the front and hatch, just not rear, so hoping this will get all. I forgot to ask, is this module, if I hook up the hatch wire to the alarm going to actually open it with the alarm remote because I have no hatch button on the factory remote.... And just out of curiosity, hooking up the driver 2, going to need relay I would guess also?

Yes, a call to Fortin should answer that question on the rear door triggers. Does the Trailblazer have an internal hatch release button somewhere in the truck? If yes, then it should allow Python remote control. The Python's AUX outputs are (-) so you could directly connect AUX1 to the INT-SL+ Unlock Driver2 wire and the Python's Unlock wire to the INT-SL+ Unlock Driver1 wire. No relay needed. Default Python programming should be OK.Soldering is fun!

Nope no internal hatch release button. Will I need to use the ground when armed output in order for the start kill to work, or I can leave it alone sine the relay is internal to the alarm.. You know how I can add another LED, not liking the led in the antenna, I installed an Autostart system in my old Mazda MPV and it had that also. Could never really see the led flashing because of angle of glass. I have a spare blue led that you used to use in alarms and would like to add that at dash level. Do you happen to know which are the led wires in the antenna/ led/ control button.

The Starter Kill relay is internal. Cut the Trailblazers Yellow Starter wire and connect the H3/4 and H3/5 wires accordingly. See Menu 3, Item 13 for Anti-Grind. You can use the Pythons Ground When Armed output wire to run your extra LED.   Most LED's will only draw ~20mA, so the Vipers (-)500mA output will do fine. If the rear hatch release is mechanical ( versus electronic ) then the INT-SL+ hatch release might not work. Another question for Fortin T/S... My notes just say the rear hatch is locked and unlocked with the doors.Soldering is fun!

last question until I get a hold of Fortin in the morning. The second led had a blue nd red wire. The negative will hook to the ground when armed wire, the other will have to go to 12v source right? You know which one is + or -? the rear hatch does unlock with the doors, then have to lift the handle out side, it doesn't pop open.. I'll let you know everything I hear back from them so you can have the info for the future.

Typically the Red wire will be (+) but you should test to be sure. Briefly touch the LEDs lead to a 9V transistor battery or even the posts on the trucks battery. If it doesn't light up, reverse the leads and try again.Soldering is fun!

I thnk that the LED that I got has the build in resistor, because i know that if I were to hook it straight up to the 12v....it would blow correct?

Most LED's have a working (forward) voltage of 2.8 to 3.6 V DC so they add a resistor to get them to operate properly in a 12V vehicle. Here is a link to a program that will calculate the correct resistor value given the LED's values. http://www.hebeiltd.com.cn/?p=zz.led.resistor.calculator Soldering is fun!