viper 5704 when i disarm my viper and the

your alarm model.

there is a pdf of your alarm on this site.its good using the pdf because you can quickly search out a word.

im gonna send you a PM w/my phone number in case you would like to call.

yuk

quiet rural missouri, near KC.

If your system moves you physically and not emotionally, you have wasted your money.

Thanks for the PM with your phone number, but calling from Australia would be very expensive, re model of alarm, I have already downloaded it this is what it has to say. H2/7 BLACK / YELLOW (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT SUPERVISION OUTPUT Thats the only reference it makes to the dome light supervision I had it connected to H2/6 GREEN (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT (N/C* OR N/O)

Is terminal 87a goes to your alarms "neg" door trigger wire the H2/7 BLACK / YELLOW (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT SUPERVISION OUTPUT And terminal 30 goes to the wire that runs from your car door pin switch (which gets grounded when door is open) H2/6 GREEN (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT (N/C* OR N/O)? Where do I find terminal 85 goes to the domlight supervision wire? The earths are a no brainer Just earth them... Regards Marc

do you have a relay?yuk

quiet rural missouri, near KC.

If your system moves you physically and not emotionally, you have wasted your money.

you dont have a relay connected?!?!

the domelight supervision wire should ONLY be connected to a relay. the relay does the hard work.

i cant believe the supervision circuit hasnt blow out of the alarm brain.

yuk

quiet rural missouri, near KC.

If your system moves you physically and not emotionally, you have wasted your money.

I want and intend to use a relay to get around my problem of the alarm not rearming.... the reasone the wire hasnt killed the brain is my dome lights are LED so draws less than the -200mA

The wire from the doors that we are connecting to should show ground with the door open and 12v or so with ALL doors closed. if it does not, do not attempt the following!!

so of course you need a relay w/wiring socket.

they are around 5-7 dollars on ebay.

the relay's #85 terminal hooks only to H2/7 BLACK / YELLOW (-) 200mA

the relay's #86 terminal hooks only to 12v constant

the relay's #87 terminal hooks only to ground

the relay's #87a terminal hooks only to H2/6 GREEN (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT

the relay's #30 terminal would hook to the interior light wire from your door

yuk

quiet rural missouri, near KC.

If your system moves you physically and not emotionally, you have wasted your money.

LED or not.... the warranty would be void not using a relay. its not wise to do it any other way.yuk

quiet rural missouri, near KC.

If your system moves you physically and not emotionally, you have wasted your money.

I'm not sure if that wire shows open circuit or 12V when doors are closed. "The wire from the doors that we are connecting to should show ground with the door open and 12v or so with ALL doors closed. if it does not, do not attempt the following!!" But I think I'm starting to follow or at least getting a mental picture of the wiring diagram you have writen what wire goes to what pole. Hope your treatments for the next 9 days go well for you, I've been there done that myself, currently being treated for bowel cancer.... All the best Anyone with any other ideas would be greatly appreicated, the one thing I know for 100% is if I put the BLACK / YELLOW to 12V it will blow an IC in the alarms brain, so will wiring it the way you said the relay's #85 terminal hooks only to H2/7 BLACK / YELLOW (-) 200mA the relay's #86 terminal hooks only to 12v constant Any and all help and advice appreicated... Regards Marc

So will connecting the relay's #85 terminal hooks only to H2/7 BLACK / YELLOW (-) 200mA and the relay's #86 terminal hooks only to 12v constant have the same effect as connecting the BLACK / YELLOW dirrectly to a 12V Positive? I'm a little paranoid about it... Marc