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python 4206p r/s in 2006 f 150


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highflyer2488 
Member - Posts: 23
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Joined: January 13, 2014
Location: Minnesota, United States
Posted: January 21, 2014 at 8:49 PM / IP Logged  
I guess I'm somewhat confused over the horn connections. My F-150 does have a factory alarm, so will I need to connect H2/19 to the dark blue horn wire in the steering column harness along with H1/3? I guess between kreg and smokeman's recommendations I'm somewhat lost on what these connections are for and which ones I use. Also Kreg, you put in parentheses (H2/4 is NA) in the H2/19 line. Does this mean if H2/19 is NA then H2/4 is NA as well? Wouldn't I need to connect H2/4 to something if I have a factory alarm?
Thanks for your replies, and your patience! python 4206p r/s in 2006 f 150 - Page 2 -- posted image.
smokeman1 
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Joined: September 14, 2009
Location: Wisconsin, United States
Posted: January 21, 2014 at 9:44 PM / IP Logged  
Use the H1/3 for the horn honk.
When all else fails, Read the Instructions
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highflyer2488 
Member - Posts: 23
Member spacespace
Joined: January 13, 2014
Location: Minnesota, United States
Posted: January 21, 2014 at 9:48 PM / IP Logged  
Thank you
smokeman1 
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Joined: September 14, 2009
Location: Wisconsin, United States
Posted: January 21, 2014 at 9:55 PM / IP Logged  
Use the H2/4 for OEM Alarm Disarm, GREEN/ Purple (-) in drivers kick panel. Are you sure your truck has a factory alarm? Most wire sites don't list a factory disarm. Not the panic button on the FOB.
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highflyer2488 
Member - Posts: 23
Member spacespace
Joined: January 13, 2014
Location: Minnesota, United States
Posted: January 22, 2014 at 9:15 PM / IP Logged  
Yup. You're right. No alarm. I think I have all the wire connections figured out now. Thanks again for the help.
highflyer2488 
Member - Posts: 23
Member spacespace
Joined: January 13, 2014
Location: Minnesota, United States
Posted: February 04, 2014 at 9:21 AM / IP Logged  
Hello,
I started installing the alarm today. I started hunting for the pink/light green unlock wire and pink / YELLOW lock wire in the huge wire harness in the driver door sill. I found them, but I'm not able to get positive confirmation using my DMM. Up until now I've been able to test each connection without an issue. These are negative polarity wires, correct? Should I be getting 12 volts when I press the respective button or will I just see a slight change in voltage?
Thanks
highflyer2488 
Member - Posts: 23
Member spacespace
Joined: January 13, 2014
Location: Minnesota, United States
Posted: February 04, 2014 at 3:35 PM / IP Logged  
I still have the question about the door wires...however, another one has come up. The remote starter works flawlessly with the key in the ignition. So once I knew I had that working, I moved on to integrating the the 1100F into the mix.
Side story: I ordered the module off of ebay from a very nice lady (sarcasm), and the wires for the harnesses were taped and cut off like it was used in a previous install...
When I try to program the module, I can't get confirmation of which mode it's in. 1 for unused and 2 for standard. (By the way, which one should it be if I had a new module).
I have a feeling that the module can't be used twice. Am I right ?
Ps. I do have 2 original keys.
Thanks for all of your help. The install has gone well up to this part thanks to you guys.
highflyer2488 
Member - Posts: 23
Member spacespace
Joined: January 13, 2014
Location: Minnesota, United States
Posted: February 04, 2014 at 5:22 PM / IP Logged  
Okay, I figured out the 1100F Module. I looked into it more and found that I need to use mode 2. Also, just for someone else that stumbles across this thread, the manual says 2x flashes for when its in mode 2. I took that as the module will only flash twice. No... that's successive double flashes until you hold the program button to acknowledge and the LED will go solid red until you put the first key in to ON to start the programming. Once I did that, it programmed first try like a champ.
All good.
Now it's just the door lock/unlock wires and also I'm not sure if my parking lights are flashing when they should be AND I'm not sure if the light switch on the panel affects how they work with the unit. I can hear the relay working...
kreg357 
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Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: February 04, 2014 at 6:50 PM / IP Logged  

Love those 1100F's.  Just used one today in a 2007 Ford Freestar.  My usual routine is to do a Factory Reset, followed by

the Install Mode selection ( two blinks ), lock it in then go right into the vehicle programming with the two keys.

To locate wires that are listed as (-), you should set the DMM to 20V DC, connect the Red test lead to +12V constant and

the Black test lead to the suspect wire.  When the (-) pulse is present, the DMM will briefly go from 0V to +12V ( because the
(-) signal completed the circuit ). 

The Parking Lights I usually get right at the Headlight Switch harness.  Brown (+) wire. 

Soldering is fun!
highflyer2488 
Member - Posts: 23
Member spacespace
Joined: January 13, 2014
Location: Minnesota, United States
Posted: February 04, 2014 at 7:03 PM / IP Logged  
I grabbed the parking light wire in the massive harness that runs the in the door sill. I would think that is sufficient. I tested it and it gets 12v when I turn the switch to parking lights.
I believe I was correctly using the DMM for testing the negative polarity door lock wires. But maybe my DMM isn't good enough quality? It has a definite lag. It is a cheap 30 dollar craftsman...think that could be the issue for sensing the pulse? Maybe I'll try holding down the button.
Thanks kreg
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