5706v multiple wires, same functions?

Perhaps someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but I think you can use the 2nd unlock wire (lt. blue) and isolate the driver's actuator from the other 3 lock actuators. The feature needs to be turned on for this to work. Your lock relay would lock all the doors. Your first unlock relay would only connect to the driver's door. Your second unlock relay would connect to the remaining doors. If you decide later that you want to turn this off, you would have to rewire the relays.No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)

When you say the "light blue" wire, do you mean the small gauge one that goes to the 3 pin connector? Or is there another?

No, this should be the one on the 24-pin connector. It's labeled "2nd Unlock Output (-)" Your driver's unlock will go on the blue wire on the 3 pin connector. Sorry it's kind of confusing lol.No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)

OK, playing catch-up because you're spraying out multiple questions before we've had a chance to answer you, here goes. Starter cut. Use H3 Cut starter wire. Green to key side violet (purple) to motor side. Join pink to ignition which stays live on cranking. You must do this any way otherwise alarm will operate/trigger whilst you're driving. 2nd unlock. Join both sets of purple and PURPLE / black to a 12V+ constant, e.g.fusebox feed. BROWN / black and WHITE/ black to ground. Blue/black to driver door actuator only. GREEN/ black to both actuators. That's your first 451. 2nd. 451 Join the thin red to red above don't join green (not connected) on second 451. RED / white* (assuming no trunk release) to thin blue on 2nd.451. Blue/black to passenger door actuator. BROWN / black to ground. GREEN/ black, WHITE/ black not connected. The second unlock feature (light blue) was unavailable on 5X04/6 models. *You can use aux 1, 2 or 4 to join to the thin blue on 2nd. 451 but it's a waste of time, it means pressing "f" plus aux or "f" X 2 plus aux or "f" X4 plus aux. Do it joined to the RED / white and you only have to press aux for 2 seconds to do the second unlock. Ref. freqsounds is your other name true? Test before boxing up.

harryharris wrote: OK, playing catch-up because you're spraying out multiple questions before we've had a chance to answer you, here goes. Starter cut. Use H3 Cut starter wire. Green to key side violet (purple) to motor side. Join pink to ignition which stays live on cranking. You must do this any way otherwise alarm will operate/trigger whilst you're driving.

Ok, so just to confirm I don't need an external starter cut relay...that functionality is included in the onboard starter/accessory relay?

harryharris wrote: *You can use aux 1, 2 or 4 to join to the thin blue on 2nd. 451 but it's a waste of time, it means pressing "f" plus aux or "f" X 2 plus aux or "f" X4 plus aux. Do it joined to the RED / white and you only have to press aux for 2 seconds to do the second unlock.

Actually, the 5706v has the option of "linking" an AUX output through programming (any of the 5 aux outputs...very cool) to use as a second unlock so there's no "f x 4 + AUX" required (which, agreed, would be a pain). I connected it on the bench and pressing the normal unlock button a second time activates the designated AUX channel output momentarily. My question was more how to wire up two separate 451Ms so they lock at the same time but unlock separately. I think I've found my answer. Thanks.

Comment 1 yes. Comment 2 I haven't played with one yet, I'll be installing a 5906 in my own car next week but as you've already discovered the answer, I stand corrected. Just follow my last post substituting an AUX for the RED / white.Test before boxing up.

Well, I installed everything over a week ago and it's been working great since. Very satisfying to hear the truck start up on the very first RS button press. I soldered all connections with the exception of 3 T-taps where soldering wasn't practical, put all wiring in split loom tubing, and wrapped the tubing with 3M Super 33+ (probably an entire roll). Took most of one day and half of the next but everything is neat, clean, functional, and difficult to locate/defeat. I'm sure most of you pros use a bitwriter for programming. For those of us DIYers who don't, a suggestion: run the siren wires but save the connections for last. I connected a very small piezo buzzer (3-28v) in place of the siren and used that to test and program. It's loud enough to hear to test and program but not so loud as to annoy the neighbors. Thanks to everyone who answered my questions as I planned this out. It all came together without a hitch.

Your suggestion is good! I use a piezo buzzer instead of the siren for bench testing.Test before boxing up.