2008 f150 +12v constant location dilemma

2008 Ford F150. Avital one button remote start (4111 I think?). Think I can use the lightGREEN/ purple +12V constant wire at the ignition switch? Or must I run a heavy gauge wire to the passenger side and tap into the 1/2" long heavy gauge +12V wire behind the fuse box? Directechs puts the lightGREEN/ purple wire at 20A, so it's not exactly a thin wire either. But the wire behind the glove box is a royal PITA to get to, only further complicated by trying to tap a 10g wire into it.

Yeah, I usually use the +12V at the ignition switch. My logic is that the vehicle uses these wires to power itself with this wire, why can't a remote start? If I'm not mistaken, the remote start comes with 30A fuses. It may be wise to replace them with 20A to match the circuit's rating.No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)

But remember if you are adding things like Positive park lights then you are adding more draw to that circuit than orginally intended.

I use wire at ignition switch and positive Parkin lights no issues at all

auto enhancers wrote: But remember if you are adding things like Positive park lights then you are adding more draw to that circuit than orginally intended.

+1 on this. The parking lights on this truck are a (-) trigger, so there shouldn't be an issue, but do keep this in mind for future installs! :)No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)

Lol, I faced the same dilemma. I used the one in the ignition, no problems so far. https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_postsm.asp?tid=135629

freqsounds wrote: auto enhancers wrote: But remember if you are adding things like Positive park lights then you are adding more draw to that circuit than orginally intended. +1 on this. The parking lights on this truck are a (-) trigger, so there shouldn't be an issue, but do keep this in mind for future installs! :)

Negative trigger with a relay to isolate. Do not just run negative to the switch as you will burn up the switch. Follow directed tech doc for proper interfacing.

yellow_cake wrote: Lol, I faced the same dilemma. I used the one in the ignition, no problems so far. https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_postsm.asp?tid=135629

Using positive parking lights too?

I have done a number of fords and always grab at the ignition switch and no issues even with positive parking lights

auto enhancers wrote: freqsounds wrote: auto enhancers wrote: But remember if you are adding things like Positive park lights then you are adding more draw to that circuit than orginally intended. +1 on this. The parking lights on this truck are a (-) trigger, so there shouldn't be an issue, but do keep this in mind for future installs! :) Negative trigger with a relay to isolate. Do not just run negative to the switch as you will burn up the switch. Follow directed tech doc for proper interfacing.

Do you have a link to the techdoc? I have never heard of this -- I thought this was the purpose of having a 10A fuse on this wire. How would using a relay prevent the switch from burning up??No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)