2012 tacoma viper 5704 and pkall

I Followed this Starter 2, I used relay with the diode In Riverdog's guide.

I'm gonna try this tomorrow The remote start will activate, but the starter never engages. 1. Check for voltage on the purple starter wire two seconds after the remote start becomes active. If there is voltage present, skip to Step 8. If there is not voltage present, advance to Step 2. 2. Check the 30A fuses. 3. If the gray/black wait-to-start wire is detecting ground upon activation, the starter will not crank. 4. Is the tach wire connected? If so disconnect it and remote start the vehicle to see if the purple wire sends out voltage. If you get voltage you will need to go to an alternate tach source, the tach wire you are currently on has a voltage spike upon ignition power up which can cause the remote start to not send out the crank voltage. 5. Is the vehicle a Chrysler or GM with a multiplexed starter wire? The vehicle will not crank if the resistance is incorrect on the multiplexed accessory/starter wire. 6. Is the vehicle a GM? If so the Brown 2nd accessory needs to be powered up on some of the vehicles for the vehicle to crank. 7. If this is a manual transmission vehicle, the clutch will need to be bypassed (see tech tip # 10000 at www.directechs.com) 8. Make sure the purple starter wire is connected on the starter side of the optional starter kill/anti-grind relay. 9. Does the vehicle have an immobilizer? Some immobilizer systems will not allow the vehicle to crank if active. 10. Check connections. The heavy gauge remote start input wires on the heavy gauge 10-pin connector should have a solid connection. “T-taps” or “scotch locks”.

Riverdogs guide is correct.  The info is from this Site in two posts.

( https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=132753 )( https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=133970 )

Here is the H3 wiring for a Viper 5704 to 2012 Tacoma

Viper H3        2012 Tacoma

1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT BLACK/ Red (+)  @ ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 6   2 RED / WHITE (30A) FUSED IGNITION 2          WHITE/ Red (30A) (+)  @ ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 5 3 ORANGE ACCESSORY OUTPUT     WHITE/ Green (+)   @ ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 2          4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT    (CAR SIDE)          GREEN/ Black (+)  @ ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 7   \ 5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT    (KEY SIDE) GREEN/ Black (+)  @ ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 7   /  cut wire6 RED (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT     WHITE/ Red (30A) (+)  @ ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 5           7 PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY       *      Blue / YELLOW (+)  @ ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 1           8 PINK/BLACK FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A         not used    9 RED / BLACK FUSED (30A) ACC/STARTER INPUT   WHITE/ Red (30A) (+)  @ ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 5 

Extra 30/40 Amp SPDT Relay for Starter2

Relay Pin 85 to Viper H2/18 VIOLET / YELLOW (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT Relay Pin 86 and 87 to Tacoma WHITE/ Red (30A) (+)  @ ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 5 thru 20 Amp fuseRelay Pin 30 to Tacoma BLACK/ White (+)  @ ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 3 Relay Pin 87a not used - insulateAdd 1N4004 diode across Relay Pin 85 to 86 with stripe towards Pin 86 as shown.

* Viper factory default for H3/7 Pink/White is IGN2 and correct for your application.

Soldering is fun!

I'm gonna check my ignition wiring again tomorrow, I know I'm close and it has to be something simple. Thanks again for confirming my wires are correct.

Additional thoughts on the 10 point check list.

1. OK

2. OK.  3. OK.   As per Riverdogs guide, this wire should have been cut short and taped off.   Same goes for the Hood Pin Input,     if it sees a ground it will prevent a remote start and give a six flash error code.  ( Always install & use the Hood Pin. )4. OK.  Thought the Tach Learn was successful but you could re-program for Virtual Tach and try that.5. Not applicable.6. Not Applicable.7. Hopefully not applicable.  You mentioned you programmed to Auto Trans Mode.  If your truck has a manual trans,    you must re-program to Manual Trans Mode, run in Tach Mode and bypass the clutch interlock switch.8. OK - mentioned in Riverdogs write-up.9. OK but it looks like the PKALL programmed properly and you did try a R/S without the bypass and just the key.10.  Never use T-Taps or Scotch Locks.    Solder everything. 

Soldering is fun!

Glad the time difference allowed you to notice that first Kreg. I would follow up by guessing that if the OP removes the t-taps, AKA IDC, Scotchloks or rubbish and solder those joints half the problems will immediately vanish.

Thanks Howie, but I need help and not you piggy backing off of Kreg. I dont have scotch locks or t-taps. If you give me some info I can actually use instead of "following up on what some says" and give good info I can use to help, I would appreciate it. Thanks again Kreg for helping me without trying to make me feel stupid.

You're right I looked again it was a generalisation not applicable to what you'd done or said. Out of interest do you have LED tail lights?

Yes I have LED tail lights

Are these aftermarket? If so here's a guess based on the fact that I'm the best diagnostics person this side of the pond is that there's a residual voltage in those lights and it's shutting down the R/S action assuming you've done everything right. Look at the brake wire part on this diagram:- brake_and_reverse,_diode_isolation.bmp Use the left hand brake lights part.