viper 5906v, 2007 camry

i have most of the wires installed. i have not did a remote start in years. Boy how things have changed. I am using a dball2 module. i am questioning the pink/black (+) flex relay input 87a key side (if required) of flex relay...what does it do. i have: starter 1 goes to green key side. starter 1 that was cut violet to starter side. starter 2 relay violet / YELLOW (-) 200ma starter output to gray wire in car ignition 1 pink , small pink wire on car ignition 2 pink/white to yellow wire on car acc. (+) orange Does this sound right? The ign1 and the starter 2 are smalle wires. should i fuse them or just build relays with 14 gauge wire?

the pink/black is used to isolate an ignition wire. some cars need this done, but the camry isn't one of them. the second starter you should be using a relay, eventhough its small gauge wiring.Ted

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i am sorry i left it out. i have relay on it , i have a 5 amp fuse to it. What about the 12 gauge ignition 1 going to the small gauge pink wire on car. Should i do another relay with a another 5 amp fuse. The doublegard shock sensor 504, whats the looped green wire then it has a green wiring not coneected.

chrisusamps wrote: i am questioning the pink/black (+) flex relay input 87a key side (if required) of flex relay...what does it do.

It is the NC side of the "flex[ible} relay you're using for IGN 2. The pink/blk is Not Connected in your application.

chrisusamps wrote: starter 2 relay violet / YELLOW (-) 200ma starter output to gray wire in car.

^^ This isn't right. ^^ The grey wire in the car is (+), the vio/yel wire is a (-) trigger. Use a relay to convert the (-) trigger to the +12V that the car wire needs.

chrisusamps wrote: The ign1 and the starter 2 are small wires. should i fuse them or just build relays with 14 gauge wire?

The consideration is that the RS output wires are at 30A potential because of the fuses in the big red wires. If the car develops a short on these wires while on Remote Start, the car's wires will fry because of the 30Amp protection level is too high. You're using the flex relay for IGN 2. The flex relay B+ input is the RED / wht wire. I would drop the fuse in the RED / white to a 5 or 7.5 Amp fuse. Then tap this wire after the fuse for your STARTER 2 relay constant power. Both "little" car wires (IGN-2, and STARTER-2) will now be protected at 5 or 7.5 Amp potential, instead of 30 Amps, by the same fuse. Much better, IMO. (Disclaimer: Japanese cars are not my forte. I encourage more knowledgeable peeps to correct me, if needed. I learn by trying to do some of these what-if's on my own, rather than just read responses.)

Tbhe relay has constant power on 86 and 87. 30 goes to starter 2 which is gray wire in car. 85 is the trigger from alarm, which is 200ma negative violet / YELLOW . i have a 5 amp fuse on the constant side of relay. Good idea Dave.

Thanks guys for your input. I am getting ready to power up the alarm.i used the d2d cable on the dball2. do I have to do anything with programming.it is flashed for my car.it is supposed work tach,power door locks, trunk,not sure about dome light surveliance, break input and disable factory alarm.

Yes, there is a specific bypass module programming procedure you must do.   I am assuming your Camry is a standardkey type ignition, not a Push-To-Start vehicle.  The DB-ALL2 should have been flashed with 402.TL v3.19 firmware.  Youshould be following the Type 1 install diagram in this guide : http://www.xpresskit.com/DocumentDownload.aspx?documentid=9780&productid=553&firmwareid=6972On Page 19 is the Type 1 programming instructions.  These steps will allow the module to learn the transponder chip codeand the CAN system to operate correctly with your vehicle.Soldering is fun!

i worked on car till 230 last night. i removed all the alarm stuff. the starter want turn over , radio doesnt play , transmission will not come out of gear. any ideas what is doing this. i checked every fuse i see in diagrams

Best guess :  Locate and remove the AM1 7.5 Amp fuse.  Use a DMM to check it.  Also check the AM2 fuse.

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=133812

Soldering is fun!

I checked them all. I couldn't find one that was bad.i did continuity test on my fluke.i switched them around anyway. It runs fine now thanks kreg357..life saver dude